THE LIFE AND TRAVELS OF JOHN MACDONALD.

IT was formerly cuſtomary for the younger ſons of gentlemen's families, in Scotland, that did not go into the navy or army, to become graziers. My father, who had no eſtate of his own, rented near a thouſand acres of the Laird of Grant. He reared cattle, and drove them to the South of Scotland, and into England, where he ſold them. He married, at the age of twenty, a daughter of ſome [2] family of the name of Mackay: but I never knew any thing of her family. My mother bore a daughter to him, and four ſons: but he, being a rover in diſpoſition, and always hankering after the army, addicted himſelf to the uſe of the broad-ſword, in which he excelled; and being very hot and quarrelſome, challenged and fought many gentlemen with the ſword and target, which affronted many families in the neighbourhood, and broke my mother's heart.

I was born in the beginning of the year 1741; and, about two years after, my mother had another ſon, of whom ſhe died in child⯑bed. On this my father was almoſt diſtract⯑ed, ſwore he would never marry another wo⯑man, and ſaid often to the children, Thy mother I ſhall never forget. Then he turn⯑ed extravagant, did not ſtay at home ſo much as he ſhould have done, but neglected his buſineſs; and when the Rebellion began, in [3] 1745, he raiſed a number of men of his own name, whom he employed as his drovers, and marched them up to Prince Charles, whoſe firſt camp was about twenty miles off my father's houſe. The Prince received him very kindly, and made him a captain of the Macdonald's clan. He then left his buſineſs to the grieve, or foreman, and very ſeldom came home. He was in all the battles that enſued in Scotland, till he fell at Culloden. Having thus given an account of my parentage, I ſhall go on with perfect impartiality; and, without taking my own part, to relate every thing that I did, or ſuffered, whether good or bad.

The Laird of Grant, thinking things would go wrong with Prince Charles, took poſſeſſion of what cattle was left, and put a perſon in the houſe in his name, which indeed ſaved it afterwards from the flames, when the rebels horſes were burnt in their [4] ſtables. The man that had the charge of my father's affairs, went with the cattle, and had a place at the Laird of Grant's. His name was Boyd. He took my eldeſt bro⯑ther, as he had a great regard for the boy, and the boy for him, and then we four were left with the maid, who took no care of the houſe, or any little things that were left, as ſhe never expected any wages, but ſoon went off with a lover. We were now left alone: but my ſiſter being, by the pro⯑vidence of God, bold, of an heroic diſpoſi⯑tion, and ſtrong withal, was prepared to go through the following hardſhips.—Boyd, having read a letter dated from my father, Cap⯑tain Macdonald, at Goolen's Inn and Livery Stables, Head of the Canongate, Edinburgh, an anſwer was returned; but I believe all the letters to Prince Charles's camp were in⯑tercepted, for we never ſaw or heard from our father more.

[5] After the letter came from our father, my ſiſter was never eaſy; but going from one town to another, on foot, ſometimes to Inverneſs, then to ſee my brother, out and in, to and fro. This made the people take notice, and ſay, ſhe had ſomething ex⯑traordinary to go through. Now we had no perſon with us in the houſe; but the neighbours came to ſee us now and then. My ſiſter had it in her head to go to Edinburgh, to ſee my father. She got all the money ſhe could get together, which was fourteen pounds Scots, or twenty⯑three ſhillings and four-pence Engliſh. With this, the letter from my father in her boſom, and her three brothers in her hand, out ſhe ſets for Edinburgh, from the pariſh of Urquhart, about the middle of September, 1745. Now our ages were as follows: Kitty, fourteen; Duncan, that was left with Boyd, between ten and eleven; Daniel, ſeven; I, four and a half; and my [6] brother, Alexander, two years and a half. She choſe for her departure a moon-light night, that the people ſhould not ſtop her; and ſo ſhe got into Inverneſs about breakfaſt, having travelled nine miles. My ſiſter car⯑ried the child on her back, Daniel carried the bundle, and I ran along ſide of both. In this manner we travelled from Inverneſs to Edinburgh, which is one hundred and fifty meaſured miles, in the ſpace of two months.

Now you ſhall ſee the providence of God towards helpleſs orphans, that are left to his care alone. As we travelled, we were the ſurpriſe of every one, as we were ſo young. Our money being expended, we were obliged to beg our bread. We were kindly uſed by ſome, and harſhly by others that were againſt the Prince. One kind wo⯑man equipt us with a little bag for oatmeal: for people that would not take us in, would [7] give us a handful of meal. She gave us a round wooden diſh alſo, which my ſiſter put our pottage in, when ſhe met with good people that would let her bake it, or bake cakes of oatmeal on their gridiron. The chief of our food was pottage and milk, or cakes and milk; and ſometimes, if we met with good friends at a farm-houſe, we got a bit of meat. If it rained, we waited at a farm-houſe ſometimes for two or three days. On the journey we had two things to recommend us, although begging from houſe to houſe: the things we had on were all plaid, and of the fineſt kind; for an extravagant father cares not what he buys. Our ap⯑parel looked like that of a gentleman's chil⯑dren, and we had a great ſhare of beauty. Oftentimes, where we came, folks would fay, Poor dears! they certainly are ſome gentle⯑man's children. Others, what if they are a gentleman's baſtards? ſo, as God knows all things that are to happen, if he takes one [8] thing, he gives another; and he has promiſed to take care of fatherleſs and motherleſs chil⯑dren: For nothing can happen without God's knowledge. We never marched when it rained, if it had been two or three days: and, on a fine ſunſhining day, we play⯑ed on the road till near night, when we con⯑tinued to ſhuffle forward. If we could not reach a houſe, my ſiſter would cover us with our plaids, and cut the tops of brooms with her knife to lay on and cover our plaids. In this manner we lay at nights for weeks, and always ſet off in the morn⯑ing. When we had any brook to croſs, or ſmall river, my ſiſter would carry over my young brother, then come for me, and afterwards come back to take my brother's hand. One time, as ſhe was wading a river with Alexander, when ſhe came near the other ſide, the water overpowered her, and carried her and my brother into a whirl⯑pool, where they floated, till a man, who [9] was digging potatoes at a little diſtance, ſaw her diſtreſs, and ran to her relief. He took her and the boy out of the pool, and carried my brother and me over alſo. He then took us to a farm-houſe, where we had victuals and drink, and our cloaths dried; and at night we we were put into a barn amongſt the ſtraw. If at any time we happened to be benighted, and could not get quarters, we ſometimes lay in an old houſe without a roof or any houſe near it; another time, if the weather was fine, near the road ſide, amongſt ſome fine broom. One day, in the morning, before we got up, a luna⯑tic, who was coming along, heard us ſpeak; he drew aſide, and ſtood over us for ſome time: he never ſpoke but ſeemed amazed. He then ran away as if he had been afraid, and we were very glad. My ſiſter next night was told that he was out of his mind for love. A gentleman in the country gave him every year a ſuit of cloaths; he went [10] where he liked; he would work ſometimes well, and, when the work was over, they would take ſome method to affront him, that he might ſet off in a pet without aſking for any wages. This they did not conſider as any act of injuſtice: for, if he got any money, he would hide it under a ſtone, and forget where he laid it; ſo that the money was loſt to the pub⯑lic. One time he worked with a farmer for the whole time of hay and harveſt; when the ſeaſon of his labours was over, the butcher came one night with his cord, his knife, and ſteel, felt his neck and loins, told the farmer he was fat enough, and that he might be killed in the morning; but be⯑fore morning he was gone many miles. He often told afterwards, how he had deceived the butcher. Many things of this kind we met with, too tedious to be mentioned. When we came near to Dundee, not far from the town, on the ſide of a river, there was an old caſtle where there was a black⯑ſmith's [11] ſhop. The blackſmith's wife was as good a woman as ever lived; ſhe put hay in one of the corners of the caſtle where the rain did not come in, and there at night we lay. In the day we went a begging to Dundee, and at night we came home. She let my ſiſter dreſs our pottage and bake cakes: ſo we ſtaid here three weeks; after which we ſet out again on our journey. When it was fine weather, and we came to a rivulet, my ſiſter waſhed our ſecond ſhirt and ſtockings, for we either had no more at firſt, or elſe ſhe did not chuſe to bring any more with her. When we came to a river where was a ferry-boat, we begged our paſſage over. Then we came to Perth, where we ſtayed a week or two. The letter from my father was now ſo worn, with fretting and chaffing, that it was ſcarce legible; but a gentleman made ſhift to copy it for us afreſh. From Perth we travelled to Kinghorn, where we [12] ſtaid a few days, till we could get our paſſage to Leith. A gentleman, who was a paſ⯑ſenger in the ſame boat with us, paid our fare. Before we left the boat the ſame gen⯑tleman made a collection for us. He raiſed half-a-crown. As we paſſed through Leith we went into an eating-houſe, and had plenty of bread, meat, and broth, for five-pence. In thoſe days a working-man could dine well for two-pence. After dinner, we ſet out for Edinburgh on a fine walk, a mile and an half in length.

Now, my reader, let me tell you, that for what I have wrote hitherto I have been obliged to my ſiſter; for I was too young to remember it. As we were paſſing onward to Edinburgh by Leith Walk, a country⯑woman of ours ſpoke to us, and aſked my ſiſter where we were going, and from whence we came. My ſiſter told her. She anſwer⯑ed, that Prince Charles was gone from Edin⯑burgh, [13] and all his army with him. On hearing this, we ſat down and cried: and the woman cried out of pity. Then ſhe took us to Goolen's Inn. Mr. Goolen and every one in the houſe was ſurpriſed and ſorry to ſee us in ſuch a ſituation. Mr. Goolen gave us ſome victuals, and told my ſiſter he would get us into the workhouſe: for he was a very good man, and beloved by every one that knew him. My ſiſter would not hear of the work⯑houſe, nor of any confinement, but took us away immediately. We ſtrayed down to⯑ward the bottom of the Canongate, ſtaring at the ſigns, coaches, and fine horſes. At the houſe below the Duke of Queenſberry's, in the Canongate, a woman, who ſtood at the door, ſeeing us ſtrangers, and in the Highland dreſs, took us in, and aſked us ſeveral queſtions concerning our ſituation; which we anſwered. She was a widow, and let lodgings; her huſband, before he died, was a maſter-chairman, of the name of [14] Macdonald, born near the place where we were born. The woman let us ſleep in a lumber garrett on an old matraſs, and gave us an old blanket or two. We had a ſhil⯑ling left from the collection made for us in the boat, with which we bought provi⯑ſions. Next morning we ſet out again, and returned at night; and in this manner con⯑tinued to live for ſome time. When we were tired of the town, then we went and begged our way in the country. Some⯑times we lay in a barn, and at other times in a barn-yard. In ſuch ſituations, my ſiſter would not let us cough, leſt we ſhould be heard; and we ſet off early in the morn⯑ing for fear of being ſeen. In this manner we travelled round the country to Berwick, and to Morpeth in England. We now began to get a little money and old clothes, with other things left off by both boys and girls.

[15] In the month of April, 1746, we re⯑turned to Edinburgh, by the Cheviot Hills and Coldſtream. We went to Mrs. Mac⯑donald's as before, and ſhe let us lie in the lumber chamber as uſual. Brother Daniel and I, when we got up one day in the morn⯑ing, went out to play with the boys, and would not be kept under command by my ſiſter, who had the young child to take care of; ſo that, in the day-time, we were ſeldom together. We went on in this manner for ſome time, till an unlucky accident happen⯑ed, which ſeparated us all. One day as the Counteſs of Murray, who reſided in the Canongate, was returning from an airing with her coach and ſix, my ſiſter and the child on her back, croſſing the ſtreet, were both run over by the carriage. My ſiſter and bro⯑ther ſcreaming for fear, and the people calling ſtop, ſtop, made the Counteſs faint away. Kitty and Alexander were taken from under the horſes, and, as God would have it, no [16] bones were broken. They were both taken into the lady's houſe, and duly taken care of. When they recovered, the boy was put to nurſe by Lady Murray: and one Mr. Vernon, an Engliſhman, who had been but⯑ler to Lord Murray, and by him placed in a good office in the Exciſe, took my ſiſter for a ſervant, and cloathed her. Thus my ſiſter and Alexander were both done for. As to Daniel and me, we both of us begged, and played our time away; ſtrolling round the country, and ſtopping ſometimes in the barn-yard, and at other times in a barn. In town we lay in the ſtairs: for about Edinburgh, as in Paris and Madrid, many large families live upon one ſtair-caſe. They ſhut their own door, but the ſtreet door is always open. There was an opinion at that time very preva⯑lent amongſt us poor children, of whom, after the rebellion, there were a great many, that the doctors came at night to find poor children aſleep, and put ſticking plaiſters to their [17] mouth, that they might not call out, and then to take them away to be diſſected: and indeed I believe it very true, for what every one ſays muſt be true; and the poor High⯑landers were more deſpiſed at that time by the Scots in general, of the other party, than the devils in hell. So when we paſſed the night in a ſtair, or at a door, one ſlept and the other kept watch. In our rounds we went to ſee our bro⯑ther, ſometimes, at nurſe; and one time to ſee my ſiſter: but ſhe wept ſo much, that Daniel, having more ſenſe than me, ſaid, after we came away, he would not go again, becauſe our being poor and helpleſs hurt her ſo much. Another day we went a begging to Mr. Campbell's, a maſter⯑carpenter's; and who ſhould come to the door but one of my father's ſervants. The man, on ſeeing us, was greatly affected, and a ſcene enſued, which took the atten⯑tion of many. But nothing touched our [18] hearts: we had no ſorrow, nor the leaſt un⯑eaſineſs. One morning we ſtrolled within the gates of the city of Edinburgh, to ſee the fine high houſes, and were taken up by the ſoldiers of the City Guard; for none may beg within the walls of the City; and the ſoldiers have an allowance for every one they take up. Our names were given to the Captain of the Guard, and entered in a book. Young people that could not find protection were ſent abroad in merchant-ſhips, in a ſitua⯑tion little better than that of convicts, though not under the ſame diſgrace.—Thoſe who were kept in the Guard-houſe lived well, by the ſide of a good fire, with three rolls and three pints a beer per day. In this comfortable ſtate we remained for three nights and two days, till the Coun⯑cil Chamber met. But when the guard ſoldiers found who we were, they were very ſorry at what they had done; for they were moſtly all Highlanders, and from [19] our ſhire of Inverneſs. They aſked us, if we knew any perſon in town? My brother mentioned Mr. Goolen, at the Livery⯑ſtables, at the Head of the Canongate.—This worthy man appeared for us at the Council Chamber before the Lord Provoſt, and gave him ſuch information concerning us, as induced him to ſet us at liberty. We went with Mr. Goolen; and as there was one of his houſes, next door to his dwelling-houſe, empty, he let us lie at night in a cloſet on hay. When we had a mind to go to reſt, we got both of us together into a corn-ſack. We went out in the day-time, as before, a begging: but at night we had a whole houſe to our⯑ſelves like gentlemen. Now Daniel being the oldeſt, and about the ſize of Mr. Goolen's ſon, his only child, he got his old clothes, and played with the boy, and went on errands, and there remained.

[20] I was ſtill left to my ſhifts, and went out, as uſual, to beg and play, for about one year. Sometimes I was deſired to get in the ride, and at other times to ride a horſe to a brook, about a mile out of town; in which employment I very much delighted. At night, when I came home, I lay down at the door of a warehouſe, till my brother came to bed. He always brought me ſomething to eat, and ſome halfpence for the next day. One morn⯑ing, as we were getting up, a woman came into our empty houſe, where ſhe ſaw a plaid that Mr. Goolen had given to cover us. She aſked if we took that out with us. We ſaid, No—never. She went away, and as uſual we left the door on the latch. But ſhe afterwards came and ſtole our plaid, which contained ſix yards. Soon after this the houſe was let. We then ſlept in the ſtable in the hay-ſtall.

[21] About this time, one Mr. Frazer, a maſter ſhoe-maker, took me to rock the cradle. I did not like the confinement of this. I pinched the child in the cradle and made it cry. I was turned off accordingly, which was the thing that I wanted. I was now taken into a gentleman's houſe to turn the ſpit. They gave me ſtinking veal for dinner—I put it behind the cheſt, and ſet off.

I went next to lead a blind fidler, with whom I lived four months. He taught me to play on the baſs. He carried the one inſtrument, and I the other on my back.—One time we went to a wedding in the country, near Roſlin Caſtle. Thither he rode on his aſs—I walked in the middle of the road, and the aſs followed.—We lived well all that day, and my maſter took thirty ſhillings. At night we both lay in the barn amongſt ſome hay; but [22] we forgot the aſs in the field. When the fidler recollected this circumſtance, he ſent me for him; and when I had brought the creature home, I tied him with his halter to the ſtrong beer cock. In the night the aſs drew out the cock, and the beer was ſpilt. At day-light I ſaw the place all wet, and told my maſter what had happened. The fiddler beat me well with the ſtrap of the fiddle-caſe; ſo, as I had got two ſhil⯑lings, at the wedding, in my pocket, I left my maſter, the aſs, and the fiddles, and ran as faſt as I could into Edinburgh. I went next to a farmer's, near Corſtorphin, about five miles from Edinburgh. I would not ſtay in the farmer's two days—Like Lot's wife I looked back to the city, whither I returned. I now began to leave off Goolen's Lane or Cloſe, and found out Gibb's Lane, a little below, about thirty yards diſtance.—Mr. Gibbs kept hackney-coaches and chaiſes and twenty horſes. I got ſome vic⯑tuals [23] and drink from the coachmen and poſtillions for doing what they deſired me, and I ſlept in the large tub in which they mixed the oats and corn for the horſes. In this ſituation I continued for ſome time. When I left my brother he was taken to ſleep in Mr. Goolen's houſe. I ſaw him every day. About this time, one of the coachmen's ſons died, and, as I was all tatters, he gave me his cloaths, which fitted me to an hair. When a coachman went into the country with a family, to their country-houſe, I went in the boot and came home with them again. And when I told them, on their aſking, who I was, they often gave me ſixpence or a ſhilling, which I ſpent imme⯑diately with the coachman and poſtillion. I liked this life with all my heart. In October, 1746, my brother Duncan, in the Highlands, hearing that we were about Edinburgh; that our father was killed in the battle of Culloden, which is within [24] twenty miles of the place where he lived with Boyd; that every thing belonging to the rebels was deſtroyed, and their houſes ſet on fire by the Duke of Cumberland; came to Edinburgh, dreſſed very genteely, with two guineas in his pocket: one of which he had received from the Laird of Grant, and the other from Mr. Boyd; for he never taſted of poverty as we did. When he ſaw us he was amazed, and grieved to the heart, and thought bad worſe. He ſtopt at Mr. Goolen's with his brother, and paid what he called for. Mr. Goolen aſked him if he would be a maſon? He ſaid, yes. So in a week he ſent him to Falkirk to his brother, a ſtone-maſon in great buſineſs and credit, with whom he was bound apprentice for ſeven years.

Between this time and the year fifty, I became a poſtillion to Mr. Gibb, who ſet his carpenter to make a bed-frame for me [25] over the hay-ſtall, in one of the ſtables, and gave me blankets, bedding, and ſheets, every month. Mr. Gibb was a man of great poſſeſſions. He had a whole lane of houſes, the largeſt coach-yard in Great-Britain, a garden, and a gardener. He put me in livery, and looked upon me as his apprentice. I was fitted out with a green jacket with a red cape, a red waiſtcoat, and a leather cap with the fore-part lined with red morocco. Mr. Gibb was a gentle⯑man, the ſon of a gentleman, and dreſſed as a gentleman, every day in his ruffles, which is uncommon for men over horſes and carriages, and never drove a coach in his life. The coat of arms he had on his carriage was a hand in hand, within a double treaſure of flowers: his motto, the Gibbs Contract. He married a gentleman's daugh⯑ter. Her father was the Laird of Craig-Leith. When he was courting his miſtreſs, I always drove him in the chaiſe to ſee [26] the young lady, and then I lived well. In thoſe days genteel families took a coach and ſix horſes, as there was no chaiſe to be hired, but ſingle chairs with two wheels, and the ſecond horſe was often fixed to the left ſide to draw it along: ſo, in returning to town, the coachman would make the poſtillion drive the ſet of horſes; and I was poſtillion while the coachman was in the inſide. By this means I learned to drive, and ſoon became the road-poſtillion myſelf: in which ſtation I enjoyed a very pleaſant life. When we went into the country with gentlemen's families, to their ſeats, we had good living on the road; and when we arrived at our journey's end, moſt com⯑monly noblemen and gentlemen made us ſtay a day to reſt our horſes. My maſter pitched on me to go into the country be⯑cauſe I was light. When I was put on the horſe I had a ſtrap about my waiſt, and faſtened to the crupper of the ſaddle; ſo [27] that if the horſe ſtumbled I could not pitch over his head. The roads, in thoſe days, were very bad. Travelling, of courſe, was not ſo eaſy as it is now. It was therefore thought to be a matter of conſequence to have drivers of light weight, and I was the littleſt poſtillion in Scotland or any other country. When I went the Falkirk way, I uſed to ſee my brother Duncan the maſon. He was very happy to ſee me. He came ſometimes to ſee us in Edin⯑burgh. My maſter, after a ſhort courtſhip, married Craig-Leith's daughter: he had fifteen hundred pounds with her. Soon after their marriage, ſhe gave a feaſt in my maſter's own houſe to the blackſmiths, wheelers, harneſs-makers, painters, coach⯑men and poſtillions, and helpers, and all their wives and children. My maſter and miſtreſs dined with them, and, after dinner, ſpent the evening abroad: leaving Mr. Gibbs's neice to conduct the entertainment [28] at home, with plenty of wine, rum, punch, and ale, and a fidler. Every Monday morn⯑ing Mrs. Gibbs gave the ſtablemen a cold joint of meat, and the broken victuals of Sunday, and ſtrong beer. Now every thing was agreeable. My ſiſter and two brothers were always in town. We ſaw one another frequently and wanted for nothing. All the others had education. I had none, but learned wickedneſs.

The year 1750 was a remarkable aera in my life. John Dalrymple, eldeſt brother of Sir Hugh Dalrymple of North Berwick, Bart. in Eaſt Lothian, at the death of Lord Bargeny ſucceeded to an eſtate of four thouſand pounds per year, in right of his mother, a daughter of Lord Bargeny's eldeſt ſon; though, as the eſtate came by a wo⯑man, the title was extinct. Mr. Dalrymple now changed his name to Hamilton. After he had been for ſome years in poſſeſſion of the eſtate, and returned from his travels, [29] he married Lady Anne Wemys, daughter of the Earl of Wemys, in Fife; by whom he had ten thouſand pounds. There was one of the fineſt coaches made for Mr. Hamilton, at Mr. Hume's, coach-maker in Edin⯑burgh, that was in Scotland. When it was ready the coachman was ſent for it to town, with the old coach to be left with Mr. Hume. The coachman, in coming to town with the old coach, foun⯑dered one of the horſes, by giving him cold water when he was hot. So the horſe was unable to work, as the new coach was very heavy, more like a ſtate-coach than one for the road, and carried alſo a large cheſt of plate. The coachman found that, in order to take the coach to the country-houſe, he muſt have four horſes. He went to ſeveral ſtable-yards, but he could not get black horſes to match his own. They were greys or bays, or not at home. But when he came to my maſter's, whoſe [30] horſes were all black, he hired three, which with his own made four. And, as one muſt go to bring the horſes back, the coachman pitched on me, as I was light, to ride the ſick horſe. So we ſet out for Bargeny-Houſe, ninety miles diſ⯑tant, which, in the condition of the roads at that time, was three days journey. At the town of Ayr, eighteen miles from Bargeny, when the coachman at the Inn, where we ſtaid all night, got in company and was merry with punch, and chattering amongſt thoſe around, he ſaid I took great care of the ſick horſe, which I cer⯑tainly did: for I got off and walked up all the hills, and, by this time, Jemmy, ſor that was his name, had got better. And as I pleaſed the coachman very well, he hired me to be poſtillion for two pounds a year, all my cloaths, and a third part of the vails. Next day, we arrived at Bargeny, in fine weather, near [31] the end of April. The coach was admi⯑red, as well as the plate. I was taken into the parlour, to ſee if Lady Anne liked her new poſtillion. I was admired in my livery for my littleneſs, being only nine years of age. Lady Anne told me to come back again, after I had taken home the horſes. After I had ſtaid two nights, and got the money, I ſet off with the three horſes. I rode one, and led the other, and the third followed after the other two. I paid for the expences of the horſes, both in going and coming back, after I had got the hire, and took bills from each inn. I took the horſes and money ſafe home. It was the firſt time I had been out ſo far by myſelf, ſo I got great applauſe. I forgot my being hired, and thought no more of it for a month. As I was coming back, one day, with a chaiſe and horſes from the Queen's Ferry, I took up two gentlemen to town. They gave me two ſhillings for the nine [32] miles. It happened that my maſter ſaw the gentlemen come out of the chaiſe, and give me two ſhillings. He knew the gen⯑tlemen, and aſked how they did. They ſaid they had an opportunity of his chaiſe very cheap—for two ſhillings: ſo, in the after⯑noon, when my maſter came home, and I had given him the hire to the Queen's Ferry, he aſked me if I had any perſon back with me? I ſaid, No. What did you with the two ſhillings the gentleman gave you? He ſearched my pocket, and found the money which I intended to ſpend at the public-houſe, for that was our cuſtom, amongſt the poſtillions. He took and ſtrapped me well, and took all the money in my pocket. I went, on this, to my bro⯑ther, and told him what had happened, and of my being hired into the country: ſo, on Sunday morning, he ſet off with me out of town as far as Fountain Bridge. [33] He deſired me to go to Bargeny, gave me two ſhillings, and returned to Edinburgh.

Now, before I go farther, I ſhall give a ſet of men a character they deſerve:—I mean the Hackney-Coachmen in Edin⯑burgh, who differ from all men in Europe in their ſtation. There is no ſtand of coaches in the ſtreet on a Sunday. The poſtillions and helpers do the work in the ſtables, and the coachmen dreſs like gentlemen and tradeſmen, and go to church, where they have the firſt ſeat in the Canongate Church; for all the coach-yards are in the ſuburbs. No man may drive a coach on the ſtreet till he enters into their corporation, and have the coachman's word and whiſtle. By the whiſtle they call one another out of any houſe. The coachmen dreſs always gen⯑teelly. The coaches and horſes are like gentlemens. There is only one ſtand for coaches, and that is in the High-ſtreet, [34] one of the fineſt in Europe, near the Croſs and the Royal Exchange, where all the noblemen and gentlemen meet between twelve and two, when the muſical bells are playing. It is a hundred to one but any gentleman in town may be ſeen there at noon. If a coach is wanted on Sunday, it is ſent for to the maſter, and goes out as a day-coach. There is no luggage admitted in a coach there. There was not a coachman in Edinburgh that had leſs than forty or fifty horſes. If any noble⯑man or gentleman wants a coachman, they ſend for one of them; for they are men of good character: and I have known them refuſe a nobleman's ſervice. In general they are more reſpected than in other countries.

When I parted with my brother, I ſet off with my poſtillion-whip round my ſhoulders, and one ſhirt in a handkerchief, which was all I had. I ran along about ſix [35] miles, when I met a helper that lived with my maſter. He aſked, where I was going? I would not tell him. He took hold of me to take me back—I roared and cried. He kept hold of me, thinking to get a preſent for taking me to my maſter. The people aſked me, if I belonged to that man? I ſaid I did not; ſo they took me from him, and I ran fifteen miles to Livingſton to dinner: then I ran to the Kirk of Shots, eleven miles, where I ſtayed all night. I ſet off in the morning for Hamilton, ten miles: then to Streven; and to New Mills at night, eighteen miles more. I went to all the Inns where the coachmen put up. Next day I went to the city of Ayr, eighteen miles, to the Inn where I was hired, and there ſtopt all night. The landlord went to Madam Duff's, Mr. Hamilton's ſiſter, the ſheriff's lady, to know if they had any letters for Bar⯑geny. I got a letter and ſet off in the morning twenty miles. I got there at noon. [34] [...] [35] [...] [36] The gardeners, being at work, and ſeeing me before I reached the houſe, told me, that an⯑other poſtillion had been hired; Lady Anne not expecting me, as I was a whole month behind my time. I ſat down on this, and cried my belly-full; for I was afraid to go back to my maſter. But the head gardener Mr. Macmorlin, took pity on me and deſired me to go with him down to the houſe, and ſee what he could do for me. When I went into the ſervants hall I ſaw the boy that was hired to be poſtillion, a ſtout lad about ſix⯑teen years of age, whereas I was a little lad, not much turned of nine. I therefore thought little of myſelf, and ſat down and cried hear⯑tily. I then ſent letters up ſtairs from Ma⯑dam Duff; and Maſter Scot, the valet de chambre, told I was below. The compa⯑ny, conſiſting of Mr. Hamilton, Lady Anne, and Lady Eleanor Wemys, her ſiſter, Lord Ray, and Miſs Ramſay, ſent for me. I went up with my whip, ſhirt, and handkerchief, [37] my all, round my ſhoulders. Mr. Hamil⯑ton aſked me, why I did not come ſooner? I ſaid nothing, but cried: for I knew in my own mind, that if my maſter had not flogged me I ſhould never have come at all. They aſked me, if I ſhould like to go back to my maſter? but they perceived tears in my eyes: ſo I was ſent down ſtairs, and the coachman was ſent for.—John Bell, you enticed this boy from his maſter, and you have hired an⯑other. How are you to do in this?—Sir, he did not come according to his time; and that is not my fault.—If you can ſend this coun⯑try boy home, ſatisfy his father, and I will pay you: for he knows nothing about being a poſtillion; and as for the other he knows nothing but riding poſtillion—So go down and ſettle it among yourſelves. Amongſt the ſervants there was a divi⯑ſion: for me, Mr. Macglaſhan the butler, Alexander Campbell, Lady Anne's footman, who afterwards kept the great Inn at Perth, [38] and Mr. Macmorlin, the head gardener; all the reſt, being low-country people, were againſt me; but all the ladies were for me. The other lad, therefore, was ſent away. He ſwore revenge againſt me whenever he ſhould meet me. Lady Anne now ſet the houſe-keeper to make ſhirts and ſtocks for me; and I had new liveries, boots, and ſhoes. In the courſe of that ſummer and harveſt the Bargeny family viſited a great deal; ſo I came into a pleaſant life. Though I remained longer at begging than my ſiſter or brother, I met the greateſt pleaſure at laſt. Bargeny is ſituated in a fine valley, about twelve miles long, and three broad, with a river running through the middle, called the Water of Girvan, which, on each ſide, receives brooks from the hills, which are well covered with woods and parks.—Sir John Whiteford's houſe is the firſt; then the ſeat of Barſkimming; next Sir Adam Fer⯑guſon's of Kilkerran; Colonel Kennedy's at [39] Drumbart; Mr. Kennedy's of Dolwherren; Mr. Macheath of Brunſton; next Bargeny; Sir John Cathcart at Killochan; on one ſide Boyd of Pinkills, and, on the other ſide of the river, Boyd of Tarchrig; and at the bot⯑tom of the river, the town of Girven, which belongs to Bargeny. Near this, by the ſea-ſide, is the ſeat of Mr. Crawford of Ardmillan; and juſt oppoſite to this valley, twenty-four miles in the ſea, a very high hill, called Ailſa; which contains Solon Geeſe, and many other birds. It belongs to the Earl of Caſſillis. My maſter had a large eſtate of twenty thouſand acres of ground. He loved to encourage all trades. He had ſalt pans by the ſea ſide, and ſeveral coal pits. He had ſhepherds in the mountains; thirty milch cows; eight young fellows for gardeners: he had alſo goats and aſſes, for milk and whey in the ſeaſon. Mr. Macmor⯑lin, as already obſerved, was head gardener; Mr. Craig over the farmers; Mr. Maccrinel over the parks and cattle; Mr. Macconnel over the [40] hedgers and ditchers; Mr. Heaton over all the ſalt pans; and Mr. Whorter over all the milch cows; Mr. Davidſon over the car⯑penters and coopers; and Mr. Macmichin head ſmith. He ſoon raiſed his eſtate from four thouſand to ſix thouſand pounds a-year, by renewing the old leaſes, beſides his own fortune before he came to the eſtate of Bargeny, and his lady's. The family have eight upper or lady-maids, four cham⯑ber-maids, two laundry-maids, two dairy-maids, a plain-worker, a firſt and ſecond man-cook, a kitchen-maid, a butler, two footmen, a coachman, with poſtillions and helpers.—Lady Polly and Lady Nelly Wemys were often there: they had each of them five hundred pounds per year, and each a maid and footman. The oldeſt ſiſter, Lady Betty, was married to Sir James Stuart, who joined Prince Charles in 1745, in com⯑pany with his wife's brother, Lord Elcho; ſo that the attendance on Mr. Hamilton, [41] ſome mornings, of his farmers and head men, was like a little levee.

After the new coach was come, that ſummer and harveſt we rode over all the weſt of Scotland. One fine day as the fa⯑mily was going from the Earl of Caſſillis's to Ayr, and Lady Anne was looking out of the coach to ſee the country, my poſtil⯑lion-horſe ſtumbled, and I fell over his head. Lady Anne ſcreamed, and fainted away. The coachman ſtopt the ſix horſes before the wheels touched me; and, as God would have it, the horſes ſtepped carefully over me, ſo that I was not much hurt. I was now obliged to take to my old way of having a ſtrap round my waiſt, and fixed to the crupper of the ſaddle.—Another day, as we were going through an avenue down to the Earl of Dumfries's, at Lochnores, my Laird, who happened to be looking out of the window, ſaid to [40] [...] [41] [...] [42] Lady Dumfries, I ſee the coach and horſes, with the coachman and two footmen riding after, but I can ſee no poſtillion. I was very ſmall and wore a dark brown jacket, as my ſcarlet jacket was not come from Edin⯑burgh.

When the family returned to Bargeny, I had a great deſire to learn to read, and the ſervants gave me a leſſon when time per⯑mitted. Wherever I went, I always took the ſpelling-book with me. I thought that if once I could read the bible, I ſhould not go to hell. In the winter the whole family went to live in Ayr, where almoſt all the families came from their country⯑houſes to ſpend the winter in routs and aſſemblies.

Next year the Bargeny family made a tour of all the eaſt part of Scotland. We ſet off from Bargeny in the month of [43] May for Edinburgh. I called to ſee my old maſter. Mr. Gibbs, in place of be⯑ing angry, was glad to ſee me dreſſed in a ſcarlet jacket, trimmed with ſilver; and as I had about a guinea, I treated my old friends the coachmen and poſtillions. I ſaw my ſiſter and my young brother. My brother Daniel was on the point of bind⯑ing himſelf to a plaiſterer and ſtucco⯑worker, at Haddington, for ſeven years. We viſited about the Lothians a great while. At laſt we went to the Earl of Murray's. The Counteſs of Murray was a relation of Lady Anne's. The ſervants were telling in the hall, that Lady Murray had a boy of my name at nurſe, that had been run down ſome years ago by the horſes in the Canongate. I made anſwer, that he was my brother, and that I had been at the nurſe's to ſee him. I alſo took oc⯑caſion to mention my ſiſter, and all that had happened to our family. This account went [44] into the parlour, and I was ſent for by La⯑dy Murray, who aſked me, if I knew Alex⯑ander Macdonald? I anſwered I did, and that he was my brother. It was now whiſ⯑pered about what my father was; and from that time I was more in favour than before; for Lady Anne's brother, Lord Elcho, and her ſiſter's huſband, Sir James Stuart, had borne arms on the ſide of Prince Charles; and the Earl of Murray's name was Stuart. We viſited, in the three Lothians, and Fife⯑ſhire, the Earl of Murray; the Earl of Bal⯑carris, my maſter's brother-in-law; the Earl of Wemys, my lady's father; at the Earl of Had⯑dington's; Lord Colſton's; Hamilton's of Puncaitland; Sir Hugh Dalrymple's, my maſ⯑ter's brother; Mr. Charteris, my lady's ſe⯑cond brother, who changed his name for an eſtate of twenty thouſand per year, the rich⯑eſt commoner in Scotland. The eſtate came by his mother the Counteſs of Wemys, being the only daughter of the infamous Charteris. [45] The third ſon of the Earl of Wemys had his father's eſtate, becauſe the eldeſt ſon, Lord Elcho, forfeited his right thereto. From Eaſt Lothian we ſet off for Dunce Wells in the ſhire of Berwick, a place of great reſort for nobility in thoſe years, ſituated in as fine a country as any in Great Britain. In the morning the company went to the Wells in their coaches, came home to breakfaſt, before dinner went an airing, and at night to ball. Another thing contributed to render Dunce Wells very agreeable and pleaſant. The noblemen and gentlemen that have eſtates by the Tweed ſide, in the ſummer and harveſt give what they call a kettle of fiſh. The entertainment is conducted in the following manner. They all have marquées for the pur⯑poſe, which they pitch near the banks of the river. Orders are given for a large dinner, and plenty of wine and punch. The fiſher⯑men take the ſalmons out of the water, and that moment cut them in peices, throw them [46] into boiling water, and, when done, ſerve them up on table. This treat is called a krab of fiſh. There is always muſic to play after dinner. Some of the company walk along the banks of the Tweed; others play at cards; and the younger part of the gentlemen and ladies dance country-dances on the graſs. They conclude with tea and ſyllabubs; and then go home. It is the cuſ⯑tom for ſtrangers too to give entertainments of this kind, as well as gentlemen who reſide in the neighbourhood. There are often fifty or ſixty in company beſides ſervants.

We went for one week to Leith Races, and returned to the Wells, and remained till October. We went a ſhort time to Bargeny, and to Edinburgh all the winter.

About this time Lady Anne's two ſiſters were married; Lady Nelly married Colonel Dalrymple; Lady Polly a French nobleman. [47] In the ſpring of the year the family went from Edinburgh home. Lady Anne at this time had for companions Miſs Duff, Mr. Ha⯑milton's neice, afterwards Counteſs of Dum⯑fries; Sir John Cathcart's daughter, Miſs Cathcart; Miſs Ramſay from Ayr; and Miſs Crawford of Ardmillan. All theſe young la⯑dies, with the Miſs Kennedys of Drumburle, came and accompanied Lady Anne in their turns, and went out with her in the coach till they married off by degrees.

When Mr. Hamilton and Lady Anne were informed that I was deſirous to learn to read, they put me to ſchool, as there was not much to do, only when the coach and ſix was wanted, or when any of thoſe young ladies went home, or a viſiting; for then I was always ſent with them, with two little ponies, becauſe I was light. In the courſe of time, I got reading, writing, and arith⯑metic: but the coachman became jealous, [48] and gave me a flogging; for when he was out with the coach and four horſes, he thought I did not give all the vails I got, when I gave gentlemen their horſes. The helper, being a labourer, and not in livery, was not allowed to lead a horſe out. The coach-man flogged me ſometimes till the blood came out of my legs. At ſuch times I went crying to Mr. Hamilton. Then the coachman was called, to know what his flogging was for. He told Mr. Hamilton, that I neglected to clean the ſtable, or har⯑neſs, or coach, or chariot. I had taken to keep foxes, hares, ravens, otters, magpyes, and the eagle, &c. &c. He ſaid I mind⯑ed theſe things more than my buſineſs. This paſſed on for a great while, for Mr. Hamilton did not know the right. As the cooks gave me raw meat for my birds and beaſts, I aſſiſted them in the kit⯑chen, particularly in the evening, when I had nothing to do in the ſtables. By this [49] I learned a little of the art of cookery.

As my troubles drove me to be religious, and to read the Bible, the coachman damned me, and ſaid, I diſturbed the horſes by praying. I never went to a fair, harveſt, or any merry-making. If any perſon died within a mile or two, I went and ſat up with the dead; and there we all told ſtories and talked on religious matters. I was al⯑ways to be found at thoſe wakes.

If the firſt and ſecond cook went out to dancing, or any merry-making, they always pitched upon me to ſtay in the kitchen with the maid and dreſs ſupper. Then I made pancakes for myſelf, as many as I pleaſed. If any other perſon wanted to go out they aſked me to do for them, and I did.

The people in the weſt of Scotland are very religious; and I, hearing of ſo many [50] good people that had died, and knew before⯑hand the exact time of their death, had the vanity to think, that I ſhould make my peace with God, and know when I ſhould die. I have prayed a hundred times that I might die, having heard ſo much about heaven. I commonly, when ſupper was carried up into the dining room, went by myſelf into a private part of the garden and kneeled down to pray to God. I had a great deſire to ſee the Devil; and often looked behind me to ſee if I could ſee him, that I might rebuke him: for I was confident he could not hurt me.

I had nothing to do in the evening, but be in the kitchen, or ſee the ſervants at diver⯑ſion in the hall. I often went out with the two grey-hounds and brought in a hare. That ſport I much delighted in; as alſo in go⯑ing out with the tame otter to catch fiſh. As for my fox, when he could break his chain [51] he would go out four or five miles in the night, kill the fowls in the gentlemen's hen⯑houſes, and come home in the morning: But before he was three years old he was killed by ſome of the gentlemen's ſervants.

The coachman ſtill continued his ſeverity to me; often flogging me unmercifully, and turning me out of the ſtables. The ſervants deſired me to ſpeak to Mr. Hamilton in the garden in the morning. Mr. Hamilton could not tell Lady Anne; for ſhe gave me ſhirts, ſtockings, and neck-cloths; and or⯑dered the houſe-keeper to take care of me. My maſter did not know what to do. He did not like to turn Bell away: for his family was there. When Mr. Hamilton got a ſer⯑vant that anſwered his purpoſe, he deſired him to bring his family; and he gave them houſes: ſo that on each ſide of the road, a quarter of a mile from Bargeny, there was a little village, with gardens behind the [52] houſes, encloſed with a ditch, and two rows of hedges; for which houſes he made them pay a ſmall rent yearly.

The coachman took another method to get the money from me: but I muſt firſt tell how I got it myſelf. We had two little ponies, that ſeldom went out, but when I went with them. I went twice a week for the letters to Maybole, the poſt town; and I was often ſent on a Meſſage to Ayr to Mr. Duff's. And I was often going out with the young ladies, taking them home, or going for them, or, at the holiday times, for Mr. Duff's ſons to ſtay a few weeks, when I uſed to ride out with them. By all this I got money: for in thoſe days there was money in plenty, as trade flouriſhed, and there were not many taxes. When I came home, John Bell would aſk me what I had got. I com⯑monly denied that I had got any thing: but he ſearched my pocket and told me he would [53] take care of it; and that he would give me his daughter when we grew up, ſo that it would be all the ſame to me when I had her for a wife: and he deſired me to mark it all down. After this, when I came home, I hid my money in holes; and ſome of it is there to this day; for it ſlipped down, ſo that I could not get it out again.

In 1754 our family made a tour of the Weſt Highlands. We ſet off in the begin⯑ning of May by Ayr, Glaſgow, and Dum⯑barton. We next went to Luſs, where my maſter ſtayed three weeks at Mr. Leach's Inns and drank goats whey. Luſs is a vil⯑lage cloſe by the ſide of Lochlomond. This lake is freſh water, twenty-four miles long; and acroſs between Luſs and the Duke of Montroſe's houſe eight miles. In other parts the lake is not ſo broad. Sir James Colqu⯑houn's houſe is at the bottom of the lake. There are twenty-four iſlands in it that be⯑long [54] to the Duke and Sir James. Some of theſe are covered with fir, with birds, and with deer. My maſter and lady went in a boat at different times to ſee them all, and an airing by the ſide of the lake, every day. On each ſide of the lake are high mountains. We left Luſs, and went to the Tarbet, ten miles further, on the ſide of the lake. There we ſtayed all night, right over againſt the great mountain of Benlomond, where the ſnow lay on the north ſide almoſt the whole year; and in the fineſt day in ſummer a cloud covers it like an umbrella; and by the ſhape of the cloud they can tell what weather it is to be. Next day we ſet out for Inverary, where the Duke of Argyle's houſe ſtands. On the road to this place we paſſed gentle⯑men's ſeats, went over mountains, round great lakes, and through glens. Inverary is a neat little town on the ſide of Lochfine; and the dukes palace is at the end of the town, one of the fineſt ſights in Great Britain. The [55] houſe, gardens, woods, hills, and caſcades, would be a fine treat for a Londoner. From this we went to the races at Leith, and returned to Bargeny in harveſt, and ſtaid there the winter following. In the year 1755 the fa⯑mily received company at home. Then we went to balls in Ayr, and a viſiting round the country.

In that year a report was ſpread of me concerning one of the fair ſex. A pretty fair-haired girl of our pariſh was put ap⯑prentice to a mantua-maker in the poſt⯑town, Maybole, fourteen years old, about my own age. She came home on Saturday af⯑ternoon, and ſtayed with her mother, a widow, that kept a farm. She had to walk about five miles. The third Saturday after I ſaw her I ſpoke to her, and aſked if ſhe would ride. She agreed; and ever after, when I came for the letters ſhe rode behind me. Even the two ponies knew her when they ſaw her; and drew near the bank for her to mount. [56] Sometimes ſhe came at night to meet me; and then I walked near home with her. So, in time, the people began to ſpeak of us at Bargeny and made me much aſhamed. One day Mr. Scott the clerk of the pariſh came about buſineſs to my maſter: for Mr. Ha⯑milton was ruling elder of the pariſh, and this Mr. Scott was ſchool-maſter where I went to learn. He had all the children in the pa⯑riſh both high and low. He taught Engliſh, Latin, and Greek. He kept an uſher; and a woman for the girls. His income was greater than the parſon's of the pariſh. He had a boy to teach thoſe that were in the ſpelling⯑book. He taught his firſt ſcholars the ſhort⯑hand writing. He wrote the ſermon every Sunday in church, and taught the gentlemen's ſons to do the ſame. When Mr. Scott was not well on Sundays, the grave-digger gave out the pſalms, and wrote the ſermon as well as Mr. Scott. Well, after dinner, in the ſecond ta⯑ble room, where Mr. Scott dined, the upper ſervants told him of me and the girl: and, for [57] their own diverſion, called me in. Jack, ſaid Mr. Scott, I have been with Mr. Hamilton about you. I hear ſtrange accounts of you; about decoying away Sally Macrath. The church muſt be ſatisfied. I muſt have you before the miniſter, and all the elders. So they roaſted me in this manner; and all the other ſervants were laughing one to another. It afforded them fine ſport.

I have nothing to mention till our journey to Edinburgh. Mr. Hamilton and Lady Anne made an appointment with their friends to ſpend the winter in that city, and to be there before Chriſtmas. A houſe was taken; but, in the beginning of December, a great ſnow fell, which in hollow places filled up the roads. Mr. Hamilton told my Lady that ſhe could not go before the ſnow was melt⯑ed, but ſhe would not be diſappointed; for ſhe was very proud, and valued herſelf much on account of the great family ſhe ſprung [58] from, Macduff that killed Macbeth, king of Scotland. She wrote a letter to Mr. Mac⯑glaſhan, chairman, to ſend out her chair, with ſix of his men, to carry her through the ſnow. As Mr. Macglaſhan, butler, and his wife, the houſe-keeper at Bargeny, were uncle and aunt to the chairman, he came to ſee them, and brought five of his chairmen, for he car⯑ried as one himſelf. After the men had reſt⯑ed two days, we ſet out for Edinburgh before Chriſtmas, with the coach and ſix, the but⯑ler, firſt cook, and two footmen on horſe⯑back, and a horſe in hand for my maſter; ſo when the roads were bad, and deep with ſnow, Lady Anne took to her chair, Mr. Hamilton rode along ſide of it, and the two ladies and lady's maid got up behind the ſer⯑vants. In this manner we travelled, and ar⯑rived in five days all well, in Edinburgh, where we continued till the month of April, 1756.

[59] We ſtood at Boyd's livery-ſtables, at the head of the Cannongate, ſix horſes and two ſaddle horſes. The coachman had board wa⯑ges; Mr. Boyd charged five ſhillings per week for me; but, on account of the eight horſes at livery, Mr. Bell being ſo called, as he was a ſix-horſe coachman, had his victu⯑als for nothing all the winter. We both ſlept at Boyd's Inn, as well as boarded. Mrs. Boyd had a brother's daughter that lived with her, and acted as bar-maid, a beautiful girl of fif⯑teen; ſhe took a liking to me and I to her. I made her and the Engliſh cook-maid pre⯑ſents of ribbands, ſilk handkerchiefs, and ſilver ſleeve-buttons, and Miſs Cochran called me her ſweet-heart. The cook-maid made me often kiſs her, and ſhe liked me much. When John Bell ſaw how ſhe liked me, he ſaid, Jack you are a damned fool if you don't marry Kitty Cochran, for ſhe will be a for⯑tune for you, as ſhe is heireſs to Mr. Boyd, who is rich, and has no children. He ſaid, [60] Miſs Cochran will you marry John Macdo⯑nald? ſhe anſwered, I will. John Bell ſaw what would have been good; but I had not the ſenſe to ſee it myſelf. If I had ſeen it, I might have had her; for the Parſon that mar⯑ried thoſe that came from England every week, lived within forty yards, and would have married us for half a crown; but, if you will not when you may, when you will you ſhall have nay.

We had a very agreeable winter, and, as God would have it, I had the beſt part of it. We never went out with Lady Anne, even an airing, with leſs than ſix horſes, with the two footmen on horſe-back, with piſtols and furniture compleat. When any one of the young ladies went on horſe-back, I went with her. When Mr. Hamilton rode an airing, I went with him alſo: the coachman was too heavy, and the footman had enough to do at home. The young gentlemen envied my [61] life, and often ſaid, I wiſh I had as pleaſant a life as you. If my maſter wanted to dine at a gentleman's houſe, he would ſay, Jack, go to the inn with the horſes, and there is half a crown to pay for the horſes and you. Sometimes the ſervants aſked me to dine where my maſter dined, and by that means I had it in my power to ſave a ſhilling or two; and now and then Mr. Hamilton would give me half a crown, which ſerved me for pocket money to ſpend in the evening at Boyd's. When there was company the coachman and I waited at dinner, and I went to the houſe every morning for orders.—When I heard that they were ſpeaking of going to Bargeny, one day as I was riding out with my maſter, I gave him warning. He aſked me for what I wanted to go? I ſaid I was too big to ride poſtillion, and that I wanted to get a coachman's place. He told me, if I would ſtop, he would give me the ſaddle horſes and a ſtable for myſelf, and that [62] I ſhould be groom. I told him, that would make John Bell worſe againſt me than ever: I hoped his honour would let me go. Well, ſaid he, ſee if you can get a place before I go out of town. Yes, Sir, I ſaid. I am ſure he had a great regard for me. God bleſs him to all eternity. Next day he told John Bell, when he came to the ſtable, that he muſt hire a poſtillion if Jack ſhould get a place, for he would not have a country boy that did not know how to ride. I would have taken the groom's place; it was as good as a guinea a week, but I did not like to be in oppoſition to the coachman, for I looked upon him as my benefactor, next to Mr. Hamilton. He and Lady Anne were the means of my having education, and being put in a way to get my bread. Next morning, when John Bell and I were in Mr. Hume's yard, the coachmaker, where our coach ſtood, as we were cleaning the coach, Mr. Hume came along. John Bell aſked him if he knew of any place; for John [63] Macdonald was about to leave Bargeny's ſervice.

Mr. Bell, how long has he lived with you? He has been poſtillion with us ſix years, ſince we hired him from your neighbour, Mr. Gibbs. Good God, ſaid he, how old are you Jack? Sir, ſaid I, I have entered into ſix⯑teen. Well, ſaid Mr. Hume, that is a great character indeed, to live ſix years out of fif⯑teen in the world, in one place. I have re⯑ceived two letters for poſtillions, one from the Earl of Glencairn, for a ſet of horſe poſtil⯑lions, the other from the Earl of Crauford, for one to drive the poſt-chaiſes and four horſes, to have the charge of the ſaddle horſes, and to have a boy to aſſiſt him, and ride poſtillion.

I liked this place, as I was to have no ſer⯑vant over me; and told Mr. Hume, that I had known Lady Crauford for years, when I was [64] out with the ladies, as before-mentioned.—She was often in their company, for her fa⯑ther had a houſe in the town of Ayr, where my maſter had one. She had been married to the Earl of Crauford at Chriſtmas. Mr. Hume hired me for five pounds a year to the Earl of Crauford, the firſt Earl in Scotland, the chief of the Craufords and Lindſays. He wrote to Lord Crauford, that he had hired a ſervant for his purpoſe, from his neighbour Mr. Hamilton of Bargeny, and that he would enter into his ſervice on the fifteenth of May. Mr. Hume let us ſee the poſt-chaiſe that was finiſhing for Lord Crauford, one of the firſt that ever went out of the yard. I gave the man half a crown to drink, and was very well pleaſed with my engagement. John Bell hired a poſtillion from Boyd's livery-ſtables, from amongſt the poſt-chaiſe boys. Near the end of April we left Edinburgh for Bar⯑geny, and I took leave of Miſs Cochran. I wrote her a letter, and ſhe anſwered it: but [65] abſence is a great enemy to love; Roſs the waiter got her with child and married her; ſo I loſt her, and ſhe loſt herſelf. Roſs was a good waiter, but otherwiſe a bad charac⯑ter. When Mr. and Mrs. Boyd found they were married, they were both turned away. She bore a boy that was blind, and ſhe herſelf broke her heart and died; ſo there was an end of one of the fineſt girls in Edinburgh.

Lady Anne never ſaw the poſtillion till the morning after we left Edinburgh, on our way to Bargeny, at Hamilton, when he was get⯑ting on behind the coach. As we were going away on the journey, Lady Anne aſked, what boy was behind the coach? Mr. Hamil⯑ton told her it was the new poſtillion. Is Jack going away then? Yes, Lady Anne, he is hired to the Earl of Crauford: he told me he wanted to go, as John Bell and he could not agree.—It is very odd, after rearing him ſix years, and giving him education, to let [66] him go, and hire one in his place, and me ne⯑ver to hear any thing of it. At night, when Lady Anne was going to bed, ſhe ſaid to her maid, If I had known, I would have brought John Macdonald up to be my footman, and not to be uſed as he has been by John Bell.

We arrived at Bargeny, and, on the 13th of May, Mr. Hamilton called me into his ſtudy to pay me off. He aſked me what mo⯑ney I had. I told him twenty ſhillings.—Have you ever received any wages from me? I ſaid, No, ſir. My maſter ſaid, Jack, if I give you two pounds that will be enough for your pocket. Lord Crauford will give you money when you want; and I will give you a note of hand for your ten pounds, and five per cent. for it; and when you ſee me in Ayr, call for me when the intereſt is due, and I will pay you. I told him I was very much obliged to his honour, and ſaid, God Al⯑mighty bleſs you; and thank you for your [67] goodneſs. I got the note of hand, and ſet out next morning on one of my maſter's hor⯑ſes for Ayr, where I ſtaid all night; and next day I hired a horſe, and went eighteen miles to Kilburnie, the ſeat of the Earl of Crau⯑ford.

When I arrived I ſent the letter up, from Mr. Hume, and I myſelf being in livery, the ſervants did not know who I was, till I was called up ſtairs, and told them that Mr. Hamil⯑ton and Lady Anne deſired their compliments Lord and Lady Crauford. When I came down to the hall, the ſervants knew who I was, and came to look at me again, and ſaid Pray ſir, is your name John Macdonald? I ſaid Yes. They ſaid, it is very odd, as my Lord has this day diſcharged his gardener, who lived here three years: he is gone to Edinburgh, and his name was John Macdo⯑nald, are you his ſon? I ſaid, I never heard of him before; but the farmers called me his [68] ſon. Now Lady Crauford, till laſt Chriſtmas, was Miſs Hamilton of Bourtreehill, one of the moſt accompliſhed young ladies in Scotland, for appearance, virtue, and a fortune. Mr. Hamillon of Bourtreehill had four daughters; Lady Crauford was the eldeſt; each of them had ten thouſand pounds, but a fine eſtate, at Mr. Hamilton's death, was to come to Lady Crauford's children; and what money he had was to be divided amongſt his daughters.—Many gentlemen of fortune in the ſhire of Ayr paid their addreſſes to them, and amongſt them, Colonel Montgomery, brother to Lord Eglington, who wanted to have been mar⯑ried to the eldeſt. Mr. Hamilton offered him ten thouſand pounds;—but Colonel Montgomery wanted fifteen thouſand pounds down.

By this diſagreement the match was broke off; ſo after this, the Earl of Crauford paid his addreſſes to Miſs Hamilton, and ſhe left [69] her father's lodgings in Edinburgh, with⯑out leave or ceremony, and was married to the Earl, by whom ſhe had three ſons and two daughters. Next year Colonel Montgomery raiſed a regiment of Highland⯑ers on the eſtate of Sir James Macdonald, his nephew, who was then at ſchool in Eng⯑land. The Colonel went to America with his regiment for ſeveral years. At the death of his brother, the Earl, who was ſhot by Mungo Campbell, the exciſeman, he got the eſtate and title, and afterwards married Lady Jane Lindſay, Lady Crauford's eldeſt daughter. If he loſt the mother, he gained the daughter. I began the firſt night of my ſervice with dancing. There were two fid⯑lers at Kilburnie for a week. I went beg⯑ging to Mr. Gibbs, crying to Bargeny, and dancing to Lord Crauford's. In a week our chaiſe was ſent from Edinburgh, with the harneſs. We had four fine long tailed greys, with good ſaddle horſes; our li⯑veries [70] were blue and ſcarlet, trimmed with gold lace. We had a pleaſant ſummer and harveſt for viſiting and ſeeing company.—My Lady's ſiſters were commonly with her, or with their father at Bourtreehill. In a week after I came to Kilburnie, the groom's daughter, Amelia Burn, came to be cham⯑bermaid to Lady Crauford, under the lady's⯑maid; ſhe was the handſomeſt girl in the pa⯑riſh, or in the ſhire; her father, James Burn, lived twenty-eight years in the family; her mother had a houſe to live in, and ſo much a year, and took care of a natural ſon of my Lord's. James Burn died about two months before I came home, ſo I took his place and my own. From the firſt day, Amelia took a liking to me, and I to her. Lady Crau⯑ford and the young ladies told her the impru⯑dence of being ſo fond of Jack Macdonald, but all to no purpoſe. One day, as I [...]s toy⯑ing with the plain worker, Amelia drove her away and ſtruck me. I went into the ſtable, [71] and ſaid to myſelf, if I toy with any other girl it is all fooliſhneſs, for none is ſo beau⯑tiful as herſelf; and I muſt reſpect James Burn's daughter: ſo I never put hands, while I ſtaid at Kilburnie, onany girl after. I called to ſee her mother every day. I commonly carried a pudding or ſome tarts for my Lord's ſon, ſo that it became a bye-word among the ſervants, that the chambermaid and the old wheels became Jack Macdonald's perquiſites. She made me ſhirts at her leiſure hours, and I was as happy as a prince.

One day, as we were going to Mr. Mac⯑dougal's of Caſtle Semple, as I was walking the carriage and four fine horſes round the green, the two ſaddle horſes for the footmen, and the ſide-ſaddle horſe for my Lady's ſiſ⯑ter, following after the carriage, the young ladies remarked, that they never ſaw any equi⯑page turn out ſo clean as Jack Macdonald's did. Lady Crauford made anſwer, I don't [72] wonder that it is reported, Jack Macdo⯑nald's father was a captain in the Prince's army, for he certainly is ſome gentleman's ſon, or ſome nobleman or gentleman's baſ⯑tard. I might mention twenty things of this kind, but it would be the ſame thing over again.

In the harveſt my Lady was brought to bed of her firſt child, afterwards Counteſs of Eglington. After ſhe recovered, my Lord and Mr. Hamilton, his father-in-law, went to ſee the Duke of Argyle, at Inverary in Argyleſhire. As I had been there before with Mr. Hamilton of Bargeny, I could the better deſcribe the places to my Lord. When he ſaw the mountains, lakes, rivers, and val⯑lies, near Inverary, he ſaid there was not ſuch a pleaſant place in all Europe; and he recom⯑mended it as ſuch to my Lady, and told her, that Archibald, Duke of Argyle, had invited her to Inverary in the ſummer, when he ſhould [73] come down from London: ſo accordingly they went.

The family of Crauford kept their Chriſt⯑mas with their friends, and lived at Kil⯑burnie all the winter, for the laſt time.—In the month of April, 1757, as I was go⯑ing to the ſtable to my horſes, about five in the morning, on a Sunday, as I looked back to the houſe, I ſaw the ſmoke coming through the roof very faſt. I returned and alarmed the family. When I went into the houſe, Amelia Burn was juſt come down; except her the whole family was in bed. None of the men ſervants ſlept in the houſe: we all ſlept in an office adjoining. I told her to let my Lord know there was a fire in the houſe. She went up and gave the alarm; my Lord came down haſtily to me. I told him the upper part of the houſe was on fire. My Lord and I got the key of the firſt garret, which was a place for all the lumber. We ſaw the fire was [74] in the barrack room, where there were four beds for ſtrange ſervants; and when there were no ſtrangers, the place was ſhut up.—When we came to the door, the room was like an oven. I opened the door, and the flames burſt out againſt me with ſuch force, that in two minutes it ſpread through all the other rooms. My Lord called Lady Crau⯑ford and her ſiſters, and took the young lady, her daughter, out of bed; and in twelve mi⯑nutes the room where the child, the nurſe, and the houſe-keeper lay, was in flames.—They lay in a room in the three pair of ſtairs, at the further end of a long paſſage, which was ſoon ſtopt by the progreſs of the flames. My Lady's ſiſters and all the maid ſervants lay on the ſame floor; and as there was no en⯑gine, nor water, the noble houſe of Kilburnie, the ancient ſeat of the Viſcounts of Gar⯑nock was burnt down to the ground.

[75] A meſſage was ſent to Mr. Hamilton, at Bourtreehill; and the family went to the Rev. Malcolm Brown's houſe, the miniſter of the pariſh. Mr. Hamilton came, and made my Lord an offer of Bourtreehill to live in, tell⯑ing him, that he himſelf would live at his houſe in Ayr. My Lord accepted the offer, and went to Bourtreehill, and remained there. The ſervants' apartments at Kilburnie were altered for my Lord to live in when he came a ſhooting, or to do buſineſs with his factor. Mrs. Burn lived in the houſe with my Lord's ſon, and dreſſed what he wanted when he came. I was reſpected after the fire, for being the means, under God, of preſerving three families.

In the month of May the family ſet out for Inverary, by Glaſgow and Dumbarton: they ſtopt at Luſs ſix weeks, to drink goats whey, and take pleaſure on and round Loch⯑lomond, and then went to the Duke of Ar⯑gyle's, [76] where they remained two days with the Duke, at his palace. We went an air⯑ing to ſee his woods, hills, and caſcades, and a ſailing on his ſalt and freſh water lakes.—We left Inverary and went to Edinburgh, to be at Leith races. In the harveſt we went home to Bourtreehill; and ſoon after thismy Lady was brought to bed of a ſon, the Lord Viſcount of Garnock. In the winter my Lord went to London; and my Lady fre⯑quently went out on horſeback; but, when her ſiſter went with her, ſhe went in the car⯑riage. She never once went out the whole time I lived there, either on horſe-back or in the carriage, but I was with her. If any perſon ſpoke againſt me to my Lord or her⯑ſelf, ſhe told me who the perſon was, becauſe I ſaved her daughter, Lady Jane, from the flames. She delighted in riding out and courſing a hare with the grey hounds. My Lord began to take a diſlike to me, for which I was very ſorry;—and, my readers, I cannot [77] tell you for what. Soon after this, in the harveſt of 1759, I gave my Lord warning, and was diſcharged the fifteenth of Novem⯑ber, being the Term day, and Amelia came away with child, at the ſame time. I went to Kilburnie, and took a room near her mo⯑ther's, as ſhe had a milch cow, and plenty to give her. I gave her ſix guineas, and other things neceſſary. I thought to marry her when I got a place. I went to Bargeny to get my ten pounds from Mr. Hamilton.—When I came to Bargeny, Thomas Hardy, the Engliſh coachman, had been drowned two weeks paſt: one dark night coming from a public houſe he fell into a coal-pit. Mr. Hamilton ſent for a coachman to Edinburgh, and I drove Lady Anne till he came.

About three weeks after this, when I got my money, I went and ſtaid a week at Kil⯑burnie. One day I went to the miniſter's houſe, and deſired the favour of him, that [78] when Amelia was brought to bed, he would be ſo good as to chriſten the child: he pro⯑miſed he would, and ſo he did. So one of my fellow ſervants and I ſet off for Edinburgh, and Amelia went a little way with us. He aſked her if ſhe would like to have John Macdonald for a huſband? She anſwered, ſhe would wait twenty years, and then beg her bread with me for life.

When we arrived in Edinburgh, I lodged at my ſiſter's houſe all the winter. She had been married ſome years. The young man who accompanied me to Edinburgh got a place, and I put myſelf to hair-dreſſing.—When Mr. Hamilton came to Edinburgh, on his way to London, for he was in Parlia⯑ment, he ſaw me, and aſked me, if I had got a place. I told him I had put myſelf to hair-dreſſing.—Then, Jack, call for me when I return from London. I ſaid, I would. I ſtuck cloſe to the ſhop till May. I loſt no [79] time. I dreſſed the cuſtomers at home and abroad. When Mr. Hamilton came from London, I called to ſee him. He deſired me to dreſs his hair, and I pleaſed him very well. He told me that James Scott had ta⯑ken the Haugh-hill farm, and was to leave him. When he went he married the Lady's maid; ſo Mr. Hamilton hired me for his own ſervant. Mr. Scott lived twelve years in his ſervice, and ſaved ſix hundred pounds. Near the end of May, Mr. Hamilton, Lady Anne, and Miſs Duff, ſet out for Bargeny, with the reſt of the family. In the year 1750, I went with my poſtillion whip round my ſhoulders; and now, in the year 1760, to the ſame houſe, to be Mr. Hamilton's body ſervant.

I now ſet out on life, without conduct, or this world's cunning. I was a greater plague to my maſter and benefactor than one would think. I did not know the value of good [80] luck, nor of money. Coming into two ſuch plentiful families, I thought the whole world was the garden of Eden. My maſter knew what was good for me; but I had not the ſenſe to take his advice. Gentlemen know the world better than we. I was put out of my latitude by contrary winds; I mean wo⯑men. Mr. and Mrs. Scott went to their farm. One Mrs. Manderſon took her place. She was not there three months till ſhe was diſcharged and ſent back to Edinburgh; and an elderly woman was ſent for to be houſe⯑keeper.

The chambermaid ſpoke ſomething about Mrs. Manderſon and me; and Lady Anne ſaid, I would ruin my ſoul with her. After this, a report was ſpread about the chamber⯑maid and me: ſo the houſekeeper always locked the rooms, as ſhe thought thereby to keep us from meeting. As the general elec⯑tion was to come on next April, this harveſt [81] was ſpent by Mr. Hamilton, in the ſhire of Galloway, that he might pay his reſpects to the gentlemen. He took me, the poſtillion, and poſt-chaiſe, and the helper, to take care of the horſes. We travelled thus through the whole ſhire, making intereſt, giving balls and feaſts to the gentlemen and ladies at Stranraer and Wigton. A pleaſant time we had of it. We returned home, and in No⯑vember went to Edinburgh, where Lady Anne lived all the winter; but my maſter and I went poſt for London. When the par⯑liament broke up in March, 1761, my maſ⯑ter and his brother, Sir Hugh Dalrymple, returned to ſecure their election. When they arrived in Edinburgh, they had a mind to go immediately to the country. But the Duke of Douglas died, which ſtopt them ſome time, to get all things ready for the grandeſt bury⯑ing that has been in Great Britain for a hundred years paſt.

[82] The proceſſion took two days in going from Edinburgh to Douglas Caſtle. On this occaſion there was the greateſt feaſting and drinking I ever ſaw. There were about three hundred perſons, in carriages and on horſeback, with all the family honours. All the company returned to Hamilton, and there diſperſed. Mr. Hamilton and Sir Hugh re⯑turned to Edinburgh, and directly ſet out for Bargeny.

My maſter ſet off for Galloway with the ſame ſervants as before. Our place of en⯑tertainment was at Wigton. The conteſt was great between the Earl of Galloway's ſon, the Hon. Keith Stuart and my maſter. There was ſuch riding back and forward, and drinking, for one month, that was enough to kill the devil. The election was gained by my maſter, who gave a ball to the ladies and gentlemen, and returned to Bargeny in [83] triumph. I ſent a letter to Amelia Burns and her ſon, to come to Bargeny. She came and lodged at the public-houſe two weeks. She was much reſpected, and the boy much admired. Six weeks after, my maſter went to Glaſgow about buſineſs. Going through Kilburnie pariſh, he aſked queſtions, and ſaid, Are theſe the walls of Lord Crauford's houſe? Yes, ſir. Who perceived it firſt? I did, ſir; and alarmed the family, about five in the morning. Have you not a child in this pa⯑riſh? Yes, ſir, in that village before you. Well, you may go and ſee him; I ſhall ride gently on. I went, and ſaw Amelia and the boy, and, having had ſomething to drink, went after my maſter. It was only three miles to Mr. Macdougal's, of Caſtle Semple, where he was to dine, and ſtay all night.—When we came there, and my maſter had his ſhoes on, and his curls let out, I had a horſe from the groom, and went back to Amelia, and ſtaid three or four hours. My [84] maſter ſtaid next day, and I went back again.

We went next to Glaſgow, and then to Edinburgh. Mr. Hamilton returned to Ayr, where Lady Anne met him, and ſtaid three or four days with his ſiſter, Mrs. Duff.—When they went home they took Mrs. Innes with them, that had been on a viſit at Mr. Duff's. She was a widow lady, daughter to Sir Andrew Agnew, whoſe huſband, when alive, was very much in my maſter's intereſt in Stranraer. Mrs. Innes wore a wig; and, for the head-ach, had her head ſhaved three times a week, without the leaſt harm or evil thoughts on either ſide. But the lady's maid told my Lady, that I went into Mrs. Innes's room, very often before ſhe came to breakfaſt.—One night Lady Anne wrote her a card, and ſent it into her bed-room, deſiring her to make herſelf ready to return to Ayr in the morning, for at Bargeny ſhe ſhould not ſleep [85] another night. It quite ſurpriſed Mrs. Innes, and ſhe aſked the chamber-maid, if ſhe knew the reaſon of this card being ſent to her?—Madam, I believe ſhe thinks there is ſome⯑thing between Jack Macdonald and you; for Lady Anne turned off the houſe-keeper, chamber-maid, and her own god-daughter, when ſhe thought there was any love be⯑tween them and Jack. And you know, Ma⯑dam, the Earl and Counteſs of Crauford have been parted almoſt a twelvemonth; and I dare ſay you have heard for what. Very well, Betty, give my reſpects to Lady Anne, and I ſhould wiſh to go off at ſix in the morning. The chaiſe was ready, and ſhe went to Ayr, to Mrs. Duff's, to breakfaſt. Mrs. Duff ſaid, what made you come away before breakfaſt, Mrs. Innes? She ſhewed her Lady Anne's card. There is my warning for having John Macdonald to ſhave my head, the ſame as Jack ever does to me, when he comes to Mr. Duff's. Mrs. Duff was extremely uneaſy, [86] and ſaid, for God's ſake don't ſpeak of it to Mr. Duff. This is a fine return to me for Mr. Innes's friendſhip to Mr. Hamilton, at his election. My maſter aſked for Mrs. In⯑nes at dinner. Lady Anne ſaid ſhe was gone to Ayr. To Ayr, ſaid he, without taking leave? It made him a little uneaſy, for he thought that ſomething was the matter. Af⯑ter dinner he aſked Lady Anne's maid if ſhe knew what Mrs. Innes went away for in ſuch a hurry? She anſwered, I don't know, ſir. Lady Anne ſent her a card, but I did not know the contents. Who carried it to Mrs. Innes? She ſaid the chamber-maid. Send her to me.—When ſhe came, he aſked her if ſhe knew for what Mrs. Innes went away?—Sir, I believe it was becauſe John Macdonald went into her chamber to ſhave her head.—He turned round, and ſaid nothing; but it turned my maſter againſt me, as I ſoon diſco⯑vered: for, next day, a number of gentlemen met at Girvan to play at the golf or cricket. [87] The gentlemen, after dinner, drank freely, and my maſter was in liquor. In the even⯑ing, when we came all home to Bargeny, he aſked me for one of the clubs that was not in the chaiſe with the reſt. I anſwered, ſir, I ſuppoſe it is left at the inn. With that he took one of the clubs, and broke it in pieces over my back, and ſaid, You damn'd ſcoun⯑drel, provide yourſelf with a place. Sir Wil⯑liam Maxwell, Mr. Kennedy, and Mr. Mac⯑culloch, ſaw him ſtrike me. Lady Anne, Mrs. Duff, Miſs Duff, two Miſs Kennedys, and Miſs Crauford of Ardmillan, ſeeing my maſter a little confuſed, and I not waiting at ſupper, Lady Anne aſked Mr. Hamilton what was become of John Macdonald? But no an⯑ſwer. Sir William ſaid, I believe, my Lady, he is not come yet from Girvan. After ſup⯑per, the ladies having heard what had paſſed, were very ſorry; but they believed me to be innocent, and ſo I really was. I was called up next morning to dreſs Mr. Hamilton.— [88] Neither he nor I ſpoke a word about what had paſſed laſt night; and I directly forgot all evil. We ſet off for Eaſt Lothian, to ſee his eſtate and his friends. On the journey he hired a ſervant of Colonel Dalrymple, a ſervant of experience, and Mr. Hamilton made a man of him; for in a few years he put him into one of the firſt inns in Ayr.

My maſter ſaw that I had no conduct, and did not know the value of a good place.—When we returned to Bargeny ſome time af⯑ter, there was a race of horſes at Girvan.—When Mr. Hamilton came to Mr. Stuart's inn, where all the gentlemen went to dine, he ſaid to me, as I was dreſſing his hair, John, I think the beſt thing you could do, would be to marry Jane Stuart, for by doing ſo you would ſoon make a fortune.—Sir, I am obliged to you for your advice; but I thought light of it, and thought no more of it. Jane Stuart's father and mother were [89] dead, and ſhe had the inn to herſelf.—Next day I told Mr. Scott, whom I ſucceed⯑ed, what Mr. Hamilton ſaid concerning Jane Stuart. Mr. Scott ſaid, he thought if you was to marry Jane Stuart, he would have you then to go with him always when he went into the ſhire of Galloway.

About the beginning of November we ſet out for Edinburgh, on my maſter's way to London. Lady Anne accompanied my maſ⯑ter in a coach to Hamilton. There was one place of the road that was dangerous, where the company commonly walked on foot. My maſter walked on, and Lady Anne's ſervants went to carry her out of the dirty road into the footway. She would not let them do this office, but called me to carry her. When we came to New-Mills, near the Earl of Loudon's houſe, the inn where we ſtopped belonged to the Earl of Loudon's head cook, whoſe two daughters kept it. He took no [90] account of it himſelf. Half a year before this the mother bad died, and the two girls were left alone. We knew one another from children. After dinner Mr. Hamilton called Jane Robe, (her father's name was Robe,) into the other room, and ſpoke ſomething to her. About half an hour after that, the wo⯑man cook called for me into the garden, and told me ſhe heard I was going from Mr. Ha⯑milton's. Now, ſaid ſhe, as I have known you a long time, if you will take my advice, I will tell you how you may do yourſelf good all your life. How, ſaid I? By making love to Miſs Robe; and I am ſure ſhe will have you, if you make love in a reſpectful manner. I had no deſire; but I told her I would come back and make love in a few days. When I had left my maſter I went in and called the two Miſs Robes to drink a glaſs of wine with me. That was the beſt chance I ever had in my life, if I had embraced it. We ſet off for Edinburgh the day that my maſter [91] was to ſet out for London, to join the parlia⯑ment. My ſucceſſor came to his place. Mr. Hamilton told him to go and order a poſt⯑chaiſe and ſaddle horſe, at John Bell's, his former coachman. I ſhall go to Rock Vale, my houſe in Eaſt Lothian, and to Dunbar at night. If you have any buſineſs to do in town, come to Dunbar any time this even⯑ing. I ſhall take John Macdonald with me all day, and he can return with the chaiſe in the morning.

When I returned to Edinburgh, in a day or two after, I went to live with Colonel Skeene, till the ſervant he had hired could come home. At this time I viſited a perſon that had lived fellow ſervant with me at Bar⯑geny. He lived with Mrs. Dalrymple, wife to Colonel Dalrymple, Governor of Guada⯑loupe. The French governeſs was turned away on my account, and afterwards the houſekeeper Then a report went through [90] [...] [91] [...] [92] Edinburgh concerning me. Colonel Skeene told me of it, when his ſervant came home, and deſired me to go to London and get a place; for no family here, ſaid the Colonel, will hire you, for fear of their women. And the ſervants in Edinburgh ſaid, Damn you, Macdonald, I ſuppoſe when you was born, you was thrown into a woman's ſhift, and that the women and you are ſtill ſtriving for it. I went after the Earl of Aboyne's ſer⯑vice. The Lady aſked my name. They ſaid if they wanted me they would ſend for me. I went next to a Mr. Campbell, who, being newly married, refuſed me.

I have often heard the ladies ſay, as they were walking along the ſtreets of Edinburgh, one to another, Is that him? Yes, ſays ano⯑ther. I always went very clean, for I de⯑lighted in dreſs and powder. My name was commonly the French Macdonald. When I went into Mrs. Bell's one day, I told her [93] what I heard the ladies ſay in the ſtreet.—She ſaid, if you don't take care, the women will be your ruin. I ſaid to her, you have known me from the year 1750; pray tell me what you think? What makes the women take to me ſo? Johnny, ſaid Mrs. Bell, there is nothing in it, further than this; they think you have ſo good a temper, and never hear you ſay an ill word: and you are ſo obliging in your way; for a diſagreeable word will turn away the affections. But you are always praiſ⯑ing their beauty. There was Duke Hamilton, that married Miſs Gunning. He was very debauched in bad women's company; but amongſt ladies he was one of the politeſt and beſt behaved men in Great Britain. And there is nothing that gains the affection of women, ſo ſoon as to be always obliging to them.

I thought I ſhould never get a place; but Montgomery, the hair dreſſer, told me to [94] go to Major Joaſs, facing the Trone Church. He wants a ſervant; make uſe of my name, as he ſpoke to me. I went to the Major in the morning—Sir, I hear you want a ſervant.—Yes, I do. After ſeveral queſtions he hired me. He aſked me, who would give me a character? Sir, I believe Mr. Charles Dal⯑rymple, brother to Mr. Hamilton of Bargeny.—Very well, call on me to-morrow. When I came, the Major ſaid, ‘"I ſhall take you for my ſervant, for you muſt live with a ſingle gentleman: no family will admit you into their houſe. I like a man that is given to women—that is gentleman-like—but to drink and ſwear is to be a black⯑guard."’ I entered my ſervice next day to the beſt of maſters.

At the houſe where we lodged there was a pretty girl, called Kitty Hamilton. There was no other perſon in the houſe. Her miſ⯑treſs lived at another houſe, where gentle⯑men lodged. We breakfaſted and drank tea [95] in the afternoon together every day. She told me, this gentleman and the other offer⯑ed her one guinea; another two; another five. I ſaid to her, this reminds me of a cir⯑cumſtance where I was born. A young man loved a girl. He ſaid, I ſhould be glad to go to bed with you, my dear Jenny. She ſaid, you fool! Why did you aſk me ſuch a thing? I ſaid, Kitty, in place of aſking, he ſhould have put her to bed without aſking. She ſaid, that is the beſt way of doing. One day after, a chaiſe was ordered for the Major to go to Mr. Abercrombie's of Tullibodie's; when he ſaid, John, call for me in the chaiſe, at Bal⯑four's Coffee-houſe near the Croſs, at ſuch a time, for I ſhall ſleep at Tullibodie's to-night. The houſe of Tullibodie was near Alloa, in the neighbourhood of Stirling, about thirty miles off.

When I was going, I ſaid, Kitty good bye, and gave her a kiſs. At that time ſhe was [96] making the bed where I lay, in a room that had no light but from the paſſage. I ſaid, we ſhall be back in three days. I laid her on the bed, and began toying with her.—She ſcreamed out. At that inſtant, a woman and two men were coming down the ſtairs. They all came in, and ſaid, ſir, are you going to ra⯑viſh the young woman? I was very much afraid, when they ſurrounded me, and were going to take me into cuſtody. The one ſaid to the other, go and call the guard ſoldiers and take him; but the woman ſaid, ‘"You had better not be in ſuch haſte; aſk the young woman the particulars."’ ‘"Pray,"’ young woman, ‘"did this gentleman offer to affront you."’ ‘"No, ſir, quite the re⯑verſe. I juſt received a letter from the country, of the death of my mother, which put me into fits; and John only took hold of me, that I ſhould not hurt myſelf."’—Very well, young woman, all is well; and, ſir, we beg you a thouſand pardons, and will [97] treat you with any thing to drink. But I ſaid, No, gentlemen, I forgive, and ſhall treat you. I brought two bottles of old Port, and we drank them. I went after my maſter, the Major, in the chaiſe to Tulli⯑bodie. One day, at dinner, one of the houſe⯑maids ſaid, ‘"Ever ſince the Major came here, our young ladies lock themſelves in their rooms: Is it for fear of the Major, or his man?"’ It went round the table as a joke. We returned to our lodging in Edin⯑burgh, and, after ſtaying a month, ſet off for London, in the year 1762, and remained till the beginning of June, when we ſet off for Cheſter, and then through Wales to Ho⯑lyhead.

My maſter was much delighted with the country, and the fine weather. The Major travelled very ſlowly, and every place we came to he had the harp played to him. At Holywell we ſtaid one day, at Connoway we [98] ſtaid two, and by a contrary wind we were detained at Holyhead one week.

We ſet ſail in the packet for Dublin, and landed at Dunlary, in company with ſeveral gentlemen. We all breakfaſted there. We hired two hackney coaches to bring the com⯑pany to town, and a cart for the luggage.—The gentlemen came out and went into the coaches, but the coachman of the firſt coach, where the Major was ſeated, was not in the way. My maſter ſaid, John, get on the box and drive on. I did ſo. By and by Dunnie Patrick got on the ſecond coach, and they di⯑rected me which way to go for the four miles. When we drove through Dublin, along Eſſex Bridge, near the Hotel, the coach I drove broke down, and Dunnie Patrick came up in ſuch a fright! but he ſaw it was not my fault. The gentlemen crawled out of the upper window, and ſaid, it is John's fault.—Another, why did John drive? But the Ma⯑jor [99] ſaid, Damn it, how can it be John's fault? don't you ſee the two ſide braces are broken? Dunnie Patrick ſaid, ‘"Upon my ſoul I for⯑give all your honours; the two ſide braces upon the very one ſide are both broke, and is it not a wonder, now, that the two bra⯑ces on the other ſide did not break firſt? and the devil burn the harneſs maker, for they are both old and rotten?"’

We walked up to the hotel, and, as it was Sunday, ſtaid all day. Next day we went to lodge in Margaret-ſtreet, at a cabinet maker's. The miſtreſs of the houſe was a Londoner. The maſter and miſtreſs were both civil, and I was very happy; for my maſter dreſſed af⯑ter breakfaſt: I ſeldom ſaw him any more till night. He was amongſt his old friends, for he had lived ſixteen years in Ireland, in the Scotch Royals, and in Colonel Bagſhaw's re⯑giment. He was the beſt of maſters. I very often walked about Dublin, one of the plea⯑ſanteſt [100] places in Europe. The Major had very often tickets that he did not make uſe of, ſo he gave them to me; and I, being out of livery, could go to Smock-alley, the Royal Play-houſe, the Garden, and Marlborough⯑green. When it was wet I employed my time in reading books and peruſing maps, of which the Major had a great many. He en⯑truſted me to meaſure the diſtance of one place from another, by the ſcale. My maſ⯑ter had always plenty of fine tea, of which I drank ſome in the afternoon, and with which I treated the maid, and the maid alſo at the next houſe, where a gentleman lived, who had a natural daughter. The maid brought her in to ſee the books and maps, with which ſhe was much delighted. I aſked her to drink tea; and as I behaved civilly, and appeared genteel, ſhe drank tea, and went out a walking with me; and to Smock-alley, and the Royal Play-houſe. The two maids were very well pleaſed to ſee her go out with me.

[101] Next day the Major went to lodge where he had lodged before, in a very pleaſant ſitu⯑ation, at the corner of Keppel-ſtreet. We could lie in our beds and ſee the people walk along Eſſex Bridge. Our landlord was a Mr. Henderſon, who kept a ſeed ſhop. He was a Scotchman, and was very fond of me. I cut the children's hair. The miſtreſs let the two little boys, and the two little girls, walk out with me. Mr. Henderſon told me he had a large ſeed garden near Bloody-bridge, and that, if I choſe, I might walk there with the children. As it amuſed me I went with them. There was the greateſt plenty that a garden could produce. It was all for ſeed. Nothing was ſold or uſed but what he had in his own houſe. I brought nothing away in my pockets but cucumbers and onions.

It was always in the afternoon that we went; and, as I had the children in compa⯑ny, I went boldly to Margaret-ſtreet, to aſk [102] Miſs Edgworth to go with us. She was glad of the opportunity, for ſhe ate what fruit ſhe pleaſed, and we brought her to her own door, which was on our way. When the Major dined in the country I went with him to many ſeats; the Earl of Rothes's, Mr. Connoly's, and many other houſes.

I thought myſelf in Paradiſe, there is ſuch living; and the Iriſh ſervants are ſuch hearty fellows! They looked upon me as one of their own country, being of the name of Mac⯑donald, for that is a great name in Ireland.—When my maſter and Mr. Lowrie, Chaplain to the Royal Scots, and we two ſervants left Dublin, we travelled in two chaiſes, and our baggage went by ſea. It is needleſs to men⯑tion any little village we ſtopped at. We ſtopped all night at Luſk, and next night at Duleek; and paſſed through a fine country as a man could wiſh to ſee. Duleek was out of the high-road, but my maſter wanted to [103] take leave of his old friends, as he had been ſo long in Ireland, and did not expect to come back again.

Next day we croſſed the Water of Boyne, and dined at Drogheda. Major Joaſs ſhewed me where the battle was fought, and the ſtone where King William's royal ſtandard was ſet up. At night we ſtopped at Dun⯑leer, a pleaſant town. Next night we ſtop⯑ped at Dundalk. Next day we paſſed by Newry mountains, formerly famous for ro⯑bers. We ſtopped all night at the pleaſant town of Newry, and next night at Banbridge. We dined next day at Hilſborough; as it was a fair day, and a great deal of merry⯑making, the Major ſtopped all night amongſt his friends. In the morning we ſet out for Belfaſt, where we ſtopped all night; one of the pleaſanteſt towns in Ireland, at the head of the lake of Carrickfergus. Next day we went to Donaghadee; from whence we were [104] to take our paſſage for Scotland. We wait⯑ed one day for the veſſel. I went a walking by the ſea-ſide to look at the beauty of the country. I ſaid to myſelf, what can be the reaſon that noblemen and gentlemen don't come to ſee the three kingdoms, before they go on their travels, and become acquainted with their own country before they go abroad? It would be of ſervice to their edu⯑cation, and their future experience. We landed at Port-patrick, in the ſhire of Gal⯑way, after a paſſage of twenty-four hours.—We breakfaſted there, and went to dinner at the borough of Stranraer, where I had my freedom when living with Mr. Hamilton; and where almoſt all the children knew me. In the afternoon we went along the ſea-ſide, and acroſs the hills, eighteen miles to the town of Ballantree, the whole of which be⯑longed to Mr. Hamilton. Next day we went to Girvan, fourteen miles diſtant, and dined at the inn belonging to Jane Stuart. After [105] dinner as we were looking out of the window Dennis O'Flaghan, Mr. Lowrie's ſervant, aſked me, pray now John is this hill in the ſea? is this now the very hill we left at Port Patrick? Yes, ſaid I, Dennis, that is the iſland of Ailſa. Devil take me, ſaid Dennis, but that hill has travelled as faſt as we have done for theſe two days. What made him think ſo was, that the land came partly round the iſland.

At night we ſtayed at Daily, a village near Bargeny, where I formerly went to ſchool. In the morning before breakfaſt, as we were preparing to go away, Mr. Charles Dalrym⯑ple, as he was riding to the mineral waters near this place, ſaw the Major and me. He was the gentleman that gave the Major my character. He ſaid, Major, is it poſſible to ſee you here? It is, ſaid the Major. They breakfaſted together, and Mr. Dalrymple took the Major to dine with him at Bargeny: [106] ſo I ſaw the place once more and the people; and Mr. Hamilton ordered me a bowl of punch after dinner. At night we arrived in Air at Mr. Duff's, for Mr. Duff was a relation of the Major's. From Air we ſet out for Stirling, through Glaſgow, about the end of Auguſt. The Major took the command in the caſtle of Stirling; he had a fine houſe in the caſtle, well furniſhed, and plenty of liquor. His aunt in Edinburgh hired two elderly ſervants, a cook and a houſekeeper. The Major made one of the ſoldiers footman and groom, and employed another to clean knives and aſſiſt in the houſe; ſo we began houſe⯑keeping. The gentlemen round Stirling came to ſee the Major as he was coming to ſettle amongſt them, and aſked him to come and ſee them at their houſes. The Major gave the gentlemen and ladies in Stirling⯑ſhire a ball and ſupper in the town of Stir⯑ling. In the morning when we came home, he ſaid, John, which of the ladies took your [107] fancy? Miſs Fairly, Sir.—I'll be damn'd but that is the one I took notice of; and he laughed heartily, for he was of that free and merry turn. I never knew him angry in my life. Often, after he was in bed, he would make me ſtand half an hour ſpeaking about things, after I had got the candle in my hand to go out of the room. After this, Colonel Maſterton gave another great ball. All we ſervants that waited had a card hung at our boſom, for that is the cuſtom in Scotland.

We went to Edinburgh ſometimes for ſix weeks together; and at other times to gen⯑tlemen's houſes. A pleaſant life we had. When he was going to Edinburgh, oftentimes a gentleman would want to go in the chaiſe with him, and offer to pay half-price; but he always determined to go ſooner or later than the time propoſed. When he came home, he would tell me ſuch a one was de⯑ſirous of accompanying him; but he would [108] not conſent, as he was determined at all times to be maſter of the carriage in which he travelled. I always rode in the chaiſe with him.

When the Major had company in the Caſtle, after breakfaſt was over, and he was dreſſed, I uſually put on a waiſtcoat with ſleeves, with a white apron, and cook's knife ſtuck before me. Thus equipped, I would go into the parlour, to aſk the Major what he would pleaſe to have for dinner. The din⯑ner he wanted was ordered, and I appeared at dinner at the ſide-table. The gentlemen ſaid, ‘"Major, I never knew a ſervant like your's; you muſt certainly give him great wages."’ ‘"That I do, indeed, I give him great wages."’—‘"What country is he of, Major?"’ ‘"He is one of the Macdonalds of Inverneſsſhire."’—The houſekeeper was one of the beſt common cooks in Scotland, and ſhe was up to the goſſip in the parlour; [109] for the gentlemen thought I was the cook: ſhe and I were upon very good terms; and if ſhe had, now and then, a glaſs of good old Port, and ſome fine tea in the afternoon, all was well—and that we had. But every thing in time has an end; for the Major was courting Miſs Abercromby, of Tullibodie, whom he afterwards married. I told the Major, ‘"Sir, I hear you are going to be mar⯑ried to Miſs Abercromby; and, Sir, ſervants that live with ſingle gentlemen are not good family ſervants; ſo, Sir, if you pleaſe to get a ſervant by the fifteenth day of May, and I ſhall go a little further."’ He was ſorry to take my warning; but reaſon bore the ſway, he was reconciled at laſt, and hired a ſervant in the country.

At the time appointed I was paid off, and came to Edinburgh. Near the end of May, 1763, I took my paſſage in a ſhip for Lon⯑don, and left all my friends behind me. [110] When I had been a week in London, I met the Iriſh Chairman that carried Mr. Hamil⯑ton and Major Joaſs when in London. I ſaid to him, Do you hear of any place for me? By G—d, Johnny, I do; go to Major Libbelier; he lodges at a hair-dreſſer's in Lower Groſvenor-ſtreet; go to him, Johnny, early to-morrow morning.—I went—the maid told him I was below.—Call him up.—Well, Sir, what are your commands? Were you ever in Ireland? Look to my recommendations.—He read them, and ſaid, I know Colonel Skene, and Major Joaſs in particular. Then you have been through Ireland?—I have, Sir.—Very well, I'll give you fourteen ſhillings a week; and, if I go to Ireland, I'll give you ſixpence more a day on the road.—Sir, I agree.—I dreſſed him, and he was pleaſed. He called the maid, and ſaid to her, You muſt make a bed for John, and I ſhall account for it;—and, John, you'll call me every morning at [111] ſeven o'clock, for I go out at nine. Sir, do you want any thing more of me to-day? No. I came home at night, and ſaid to the maid, Shall I ſit up for the Major? She ſaid, There is no occaſion, he comes home before we go to bed, and all he wants is to light his candle. He is a very ſober gentleman. So I ſerved him two hours each day. He paid me my money every week. About the end of June we ſet out in a chaiſe for Cheſter, in our way to Dublin. The Major hired horſes through Wales to Holyhead, and we ſoon had our paſſage for Dublin, where I ſaw all my old friends. I had all the day to myſelf, as in London. The Major was a polite man. If he met me in the ſtreets of Dublin, and I lifted my hat, he returned it; but no more. One thing I can ſay, I never ſerved him with a breakfaſt, dinner, or ſupper, all the time I lived with him. When Major Libbelier was on the road, he ſent me from his table what he left; and of every bottle of wine, he [112] ſent me a tumbler glaſs full. Near the end of Auguſt he diſcharged me, having no fur⯑ther occaſion for a ſervant after he returned from Dublin.

Next week I called at Mr. Lamare's, in Holles-ſtreet, Cavendiſh-ſquare, for Daniel Douglas, who lived fellow-ſervant with me at Bargeny. I told him I had left Major Libbelier: he ſaid, I wiſh you had been here yeſterday, for the baſket-woman told us of a place. But, ſaid he to the cook, if Maſter John will wait a little, the woman will be here from the butcher's preſently. When ſhe came, ſhe told me to enquire for Major Deibbiege, at Mr. Sandby's; he wanted a ſervant. I went, and was hired. He gave me a livery. He was juſt come out of Scotland, and had married a Scotch lady, Miſs Seton, Sir Henry Seton's ſiſter. Soon after, my maſter made the tour of Norfolk, to ſee his relations. He went to Newmarket Races, [113] Swaffham Races and Aſſembly, Raynham Hall, Holkham Hall, Houghton Hall, Nor⯑wich, Lynn, and many other places in the county. From the ſingularity of my livery, they aſked me, if my maſter was not an am⯑baſſador. I told them he was an American ſcalp.

When we had ſeen all the places about Norfolk, we returned to London. I lived with the Major till after Chriſtmas. He was not going to have a carriage; and, as I did not like a family ſo well, I gave warning.

In March, 1764, I heard of a place in Al⯑dermanbury, and went after it. Two ſingle gentlemen, Mr. Ferguſon, brother to Sir Adam Ferguſon, and Mr. Creighton, lived to⯑gether. Many others came after this place as well as me; but, as Mr. Ferguſon was born in the pariſh where I lived when I was at Bargeny, and by that had a little know⯑ledge [114] of me, I had the preference. I was hired for twenty guineas a year, and two ſuits of cloaths: they told me they did not want me to wear a livery. I went to their taylor, and was meaſured for one of fuſtian, to do my work in, and another of blue York⯑ſhire cloth; I did not want to be fine. I wanted to be like a ſervant. The gentlemen were pleaſed with what I ordered, when they ſaw them. As Mr. Hamilton was in London, he gave me a character. I entered home, liked my place, and was very capable of it. I was part of every thing there. I marketed, kept the book, and had the keys of every thing in the houſe. I was ſteward, valet, butler, houſe-keeper, head-cook, and footman. I taught the maid to dreſs the Scotch diſhes. When ſhe wanted aſſiſtance, ſhe had her ſiſter, a married woman, to help her; and I paid her as a chair-woman. We went on very well, and had always the Sunday to ourſelves. Mr. Andrew Grant, [115] of Broad-ſtreet, had a houſe at Hornſey. The two gentlemen went there on Saturday night, and returned on Monday morning. When it was my Sunday to go out, the maid had her ſiſter with her. We were very careful. We had always tea and ſugar allowed us. When I was at home, I had ſometimes one or another that came to ſee me. This went on near a year, and I was determined to take more care of myſelf than I had done, think⯑ing on what was paſt; and I made a vow to this purpoſe. But no man can foreſee what is to come. As I was going to bed, the maid's room and bed facing the ſtairs as I came up, ſhe in bed, and the candle burn⯑ing, I could ſee her at different times unco⯑vered. I went to bed once or twice, and took no notice. But one night the candle was very near the bed, and ſhe nearly all uncovered: very tempting to a man; for ſhe was a pretty young girl. I ſpoke to her, and told her the danger of leaving a candle [116] burning, and falling aſleep; ſo I put it out, and came away. From that time ſhe could never bear to ſee me. A few weeks after, on a Saturday night, the gentlemen told me they were to ſleep at Mr. Bogle's, in Love-lane, and that I ſhould bring linen and dreſs them by eight in the morning, becauſe they were to dine at Richmond. I got up at ſeven, which was rather ſoon, to go to the gentle⯑men. I therefore took the key of the door, and went over to the public-houſe, to have ſomething to drink. I had enough at home, but I did not care a farthing for it, as there was no company. Near eight I came home. The door was bolted. Suſan went to bed again. She wanted to make me diſappoint my maſters. I knocked and alarmed the ſtreet till near eleven. I got in, but ſaid nothing. I went to the gentlemen, and, as God would have it, they were late up, and did not want to dreſs till after breakfaſt. When I came home, the maid's ſiſter was [117] come, as it was my day to go out. I told her how Suſan had ſerved me in the morn⯑ing. She was very ſorry, as I was ſo good a friend to them. We had many words, and ſhe ſtruck me on the face. This ſo enraged me that I kicked her backſide, and there was great confuſion. I dreſſed myſelf, and went out for the day. Next morning ſhe told Mr. Ferguſon what I had done; how I gave the wine in the kitchen to people; and that, when I made the Scotch ſoup, if it was not made uſe of, I warmed it up next day, if they dined at home, and charged it again. My maſter told Mr. Creighton; and after they were dreſſed, I was called up into the office. My two maſters were there, and the two clerks. Mr. Ferguſon ſaid, John, Suſan tells me ſtrange things of you, which I am ſorry to hear; ſhe ſays you ſtruck her.—Yes, but ſhe ſtruck me firſt.—Call her in.—I did.—Well, Suſan, did John ſtrike you?—Yes, and if he ſtays in the houſe I will not.—I [118] ſaid, Sir, if you pleaſe, I will tell you all. On Saturday night you told me to bring a change of linen to Mr. Bogle's, and dreſs you both by eight in the morning. I got up at ſeven, took the key of the ſtreet door in my pocket, and went to the public-houſe to have ſome drink. When I came back, the door was bolted. I knocked and walked there till eleven o'clock; then Suſan let me in. I got the things, and dreſſed you both. Yeſterday, when I came back from Mr. Bo⯑gle's, I told her ſiſter how ſhe had ſerved me. She was ſo aſhamed, that ſhe ſtruck me on the face; which enraged me ſo, that I gave her two or three kicks on the backſide.—Suſan, is this true?—Yes, Sir, but he told my ſiſter lyes of me.—Very well, Suſan.—But, my maſter added, ſhe ſaid you gave the wine away in the kitchen.—Sir, certainly I have given a glaſs of wine to Suſan and her ſiſter, and her ſiſter's huſband, and to ſeveral noblemen's and gentlemen's ſervants, out of [119] a decanter; but oftener to her ſiſter and bro⯑ther than any other; therefore, Sir, ſhe is a wicked girl, and ungrateful. Her brother-in-law is footman to a gentleman.—Mr. Creighton, who was afterwards ſheriff of London, ſaid, As to giving a glaſs of wine away, as you are a wine-merchant, Charles, I don't think much of it.—But Mr. Fergu⯑ſon ſaid, Here is ſomething worſe than all that. She tells me, when the ſoups are left untouched, you warm them up the next day, and ſend them up to table. What did you do that for? to make me pay for it twice?—No, Sir, you are miſtaken; and if you turn me away, and hurt my character, I leave you to God and your own conſcience.—He ſaid, explain yourſelf.—Sir, in cold weather, ſoup or barley broth is juſt as good the ſecond day as the firſt. Oftentimes, Sir, when you were both dreſſed, you told me you both dined at home, but did not know of any company. Many times, however, you have brought [120] home from 'Change two or three gentlemen to dinner. Then you would tell me to get more. You know, Sir, I always had cold ſir⯑loin of beef, or haunch-bone, or buttock, and you had ſomething of fiſh or of fowl, Now the ſoup that was made the day before ſaved us from the trouble of going for any thing elſe. Sir, that is all the view I had in it, not to have to go out.

Bring me your book, ſaid my maſter, and the butcher's bills, and I ſhall ſpeak to you both by and by. They both examined the book and the bills, but could find nothing againſt me. We were called in again. Su⯑ſan was told that they could find nothing concerning what ſhe ſaid of the ſoups;—ſo you may provide yourſelf with another place; for, as you cannot agree any longer, it is beſt to part. She went, and a cunning devil came after her. I believe the two were ac⯑quainted, for they met very often together. [121] The new maid had a ſweetheart, a porter in a ſhop, though ſhe cared no more for him than for my old ſhoes. She aſked me to give them a glaſs of wine, for ſhe knew the other had wine often. But I would not. I told Colonel Roy's butler how Suſan had ſerved me. He ſaid, what can you do? Never give a glaſs of wine to any perſon. If any one comes to ſee you, treat them with a pot of porter or two, but always take care of your truſt; for, if you do not, the firſt time you have words, they'll tell of you. So I went by his advice. I had to teach her to dreſs the Scotch diſhes. One night I went to ſee Mr. Bogle's ſervants. The butler and footboy ſaid, Mr. John, the gentlemen were ſpeaking about you laſt night. Mr. Fer⯑guſon ſaid, Mr. Hamilton turned away my poor John for fear of his wife. Mr. John, did you live at Bargeny?—Yes, I did.—Then we underſtand; for Mr. Hamilton and Lady Anne are parted.—That is not my fault, [122] ſaid I.—A few nights after, Captain Hamil⯑ton was at ſupper with Mr. Ferguſon, and the diſcourſe turned about Lady Anne. The Captain aſked what was the reaſon? Was ſhe blamed with taking up with any perſon? As I was going out of the room, my maſter ſaid, with him firſt.—What, with your ſer⯑vant?—Yes.—The Captain ſaid, Damn it, it is a pity thoſe things are ever known. Did he live there?—He was brought up in the family.—I was ſorry to bear the blame, and innocent at the ſame time.

Next our maid began her ſchemes. One night, before bed-time, ſhe was taken very ill, and, as I thought, fainted away. I got her ſomething to drink, and ſhe came to her⯑ſelf. She was ſo weak that ſhe could not walk to bed. I was obliged to carry her. When we came there, ſhe could not undreſs herſelf. I was obliged to undreſs her, and to take off her ſtockings.—Dear, how bad I [123] am, Maſter John.—I am very ſorry for you, Ellie.—Pray put ſome water by my bed ſide before you lie down. I did, and went to bed. Another night ſhe behaved in the ſame manner. I was proof againſt her; nor in⯑deed did I underſtand her till afterwards; for I had not the craft of many. From this day ſhe became my enemy. What a terrible thing is luſt! How terrible, when diſap⯑pointed!

One day the gentlemen dined at Mr. Grant's in Broad-ſtreet. I went to the St. James's end of the town with Mr. Duff's ſervant. We called at different houſes, and drank ſeveral liquors, which got the better of my head. Hugh Gibſon came home with me, and bad me good night. I went down to the kitchen, and ſat down in a chair. The heat of the fire made me ſick. I puked, and fell aſleep. Ellie ſhut the kitchen door, ſo that I could not hear the ſtreet door knock. [124] She went to the next houſe, and ſat with the maid. She expected my maſter home in the evening to write; and ſo he did come, and knocked ſeveral times; but I did not hear him. Then ſhe came to the door, and told my maſter ſhe left me at home with Mr. Duff's ſervant. She took Mr. Ferguſon to the kitchen to ſee me as I was faſt aſleep. Now, Sir, you ſee how your wine lies on the hearth. He ſaid nothing, but went up to the office. When I went to put him to bed, he ſaid, John, I ſee how you behave; a per⯑ſon I put ſo much confidence in, and to uſe me ſo!—Sir, I beg your pardon; I went to the other end of the town, and drank dif⯑ferent liquors, which got the better of me, and Mr. Duff's man came home with me, and I fell aſleep by the fire, and I became very ſick.—Did not you get drunk at home?—No, Sir; I drank nothing at home but part of a pot of beer, when Hugh Gibſon came home with me.—I can hardly believe [125] you.—I do aſſure you, Sir, it is true. My maſter went next day to Mr. Duff's ſervant, to know the rights of it; and as I ſpoke, ſo he found it. So this paſſed over.

Soon after there were ladies and gentlemen dined at our houſe. I gave Ellie a bottle of wine for herſelf. She drank ſome wine and porter, and by noon got drunk. The chair⯑woman ſaid, Mrs. Cook, the pot boils; will you ſkim the pot? Ellie was going to waſh her hands, and having the ſoap in her hands, ſhe lifted off the lid, and went to ſkim the pot. The ſoap fell in the pot. I took it out with the ladle. It was the Queen of Scots ſoup ſhe was making. If it had been ſpoiled, I ſhould have been blamed; and if it was good, I ſhould have had praiſe.

The Queen of Scots ſoup is made in man⯑ner following. Six chickens are cut in ſmall pieces, with the heart, gizzard, and liver well [126] waſhed, and then put into a ſtewpan, and juſt covered with water, and boiled till the chickens are enough. Seaſon it with ſalt and cayenne pepper, and mince parſley with eight eggs yolks and whites beat up toge⯑ther. Stir round all together juſt as you are going to ſerve it up. Half a minute will boil the eggs.

By the time dinner was ſent in, Ellie ſat down in a chair, and being overcome by the heat of the fire, fell faſt aſleep, and was as bad as I had been ſome time before. So ever after we never did agree. Now it was reported that Mr. Ferguſon was going to be married to Miſs Fordyce, Mr. Andrew Grant's Lady's ſiſter; and ſo he was, ſome time after. I went to Mr. Grant's one day to ſee the ſervants. The houſekeeper, Mrs. Gordon, aſked me if I did not live with the Earl of Crauford, and Mr. Hamilton of Bar⯑geny. I ſaid, Yes. Are they not both part⯑ed [127] from their ladies? I ſaid, Yes.—Little did I know what was brewing.

The maid began to dreſs away. Some mornings ſhe would not have a ſhilling to buy ſugar or tea, but would borrow from me. At night ſhe would go out, and come home with gold and ſilver in her pocket. One day we had words, and I told her I did not think ſhe got her money honeſtly. She went cry⯑ing to Mr. Creighton, and told him that I ſaid ſhe went out of nights along with him. He told Mr. Ferguſon. They were both very angry; and I got warning; but after⯑wards ſhe lived with him, and had children by him. The firſt time I ſaw Mr. Grant's footman, he ſaid, John, I hear you are going away.—Yes, ſaid I, on Ellie's account.—Not altogether for that, Maſter John; the ladies ſay you are not a proper perſon to live where there are married people.

[128] When my time was up, I was diſcharged; and ſoon after I was hired to a gentleman in the city, juſt married, who knew my maſter. When I went for my anſwer, he told me he was ſorry he could not take me, as a relation had recommended a ſervant to him, and he could not be off taking him. So I loſt that place, and was out of ſervice till I had ſpent all my money, to the laſt five and three⯑pence. At laſt a hair-dreſſer ſent me after a place, to be butler and dreſs hair, with a gentleman in Kent, and to wear a livery. The gentleman went after my character. I went for my anſwer. He ſaid, I went to en⯑quire about you, and your maſter did not give you a very good character; but I will take you by your looks. I went home, and liked my place well. I dreſſed my maſter and his lady. My maſter kept the beſt houſe in England; he was a powder-merchant for the army. There were three more ſervants in livery. By the time I was half a year [129] there, the houſekeeper raiſed a report that I had taken up with the chamber-maid in the country-houſe.

We jaunted round the country a good deal, in Eſſex, Kent, and Hampſhire. One day, in town, my miſtreſs deſired the houſekeeper to ſend me up ſtairs, as ſhe was going to ſend me out to buy ſomething for her. I aſked her which room my miſtreſs was in. She ſaid the bed-chamber. I aſked her if I was to go there. Yes, ſaid ſhe, you are welcome enough there. I was much alarmed to hear her ſay ſo. If any of the maids ſaid or ſpoke any thing that diſpleaſed my miſtreſs, ſhe came and told me of it. One day, at the country houſe, ſomething was forgot for din⯑ner. I took the blame on myſelf. My maſter ſpoke to my miſtreſs of it ſoon after, and ſhe took the blame on herſelf. He ſaid, God damn you both; am I to be diſap⯑pointed in this manner between you both? [130] Such expreſſions I was ſorry to hear. I thought of what was paſt; and I would ra⯑ther have ſuffered death than to have been the cauſe of diſturbance: for I had a great regard for my maſter and miſtreſs. So I gave warning to get out of it. One day, in the town houſe, the cook-maid ſaid, Mr. John, my miſtreſs don't know what to do, becauſe you are going away; ſhe has not dreſſed herſelf theſe three weeks. I was very ſorry to hear all this; it very much hurt my ſpirits, and I came away very heavy hearted.

Next I went to live with a Mr. Campbell, for the time he was to be in London, to take care of his things, and dreſs him. His bro⯑ther, Mr. Campbell of Shawfield, lodged in the ſame houſe, and his footman was taken very ill. He deſired his valet to aſk me, if I would go to the Houſe of Commons behind his carriage, and to put on the livery great⯑coat? [131] I told him I would with all my heart. When my maſter was dreſſed in the morn⯑ing, and his things put away, he wanted no more of me for the day. I waited on them at breakfaſt, and very often at dinner. I lived well. If they dined in the country, I went with them. I was never happier in my own mind. Before my maſter went away, he bought two horſes, and I got two guineas by that. I lived with Mr. Camp⯑bell till he left London. He went, in his way to Scotland, by Oxford and Lancaſter, and made ſeveral excurſions, that he might learn the modes of farming.

The week after his departure, I went after a place in St. James's-ſtreet, at a gentleman's juſt come from Paris, one of the gayeſt young gentlemen, and the greateſt gambler, that every belonged to Scotland, (though he had often ſaid, he never would have a Scotch ſervant, nor employ a Scotch tradeſman,) [132] John Crauford, Eſq. of Errol. I met him in the paſſage, as he was going to his chair, I told him that I heard he wanted a ſervant. Who did you live with laſt? I told him. He agreed with me for ſixteen guineas a year, and half a guinea a week, and ſaid, Come in the morning. He deſired his valet to give di⯑rections to Mr. Bocquet the taylor, and he meaſured me for two ſuits of clothes direct⯑ly. When I got the livery, he rung the bell for me, and gave me twelve pair of ſilk ſtockings in a parcel to wear; and ſaid, I like my ſervants to go genteelly. A few days after, he aſked my name. I told him John Macdonald.—What country?—I ſaid, from the Highlands of Scotland.—Very well.

It was now the ſummer. We lived in London, and jaunted up and down the coun⯑try till the winter; and then he remained in London. But, being poorly in his health, he went to Bath in the ſpring of the year for [133] two months; then came to London for ſome time; and then returned to Bath again. Doctor Turton thought it moſt adviſeable for him to go to the German Spa. At Bath he had words with his valet about the bills. The valet ſaid to my maſter, You get worſe and worſe. So he gave him warning. When he came to London, he parted with the Engliſhman, and Lord Beauchamp recom⯑mended him an Italian, a very good fellow, whoſe name was Henry. We ſet off for Dover, and paſſed over to Calais. My maſter took his own chaiſe with him, which I took care of, to clean and greaſe. When we left Calais, my maſter aſked me, if I could make any broth, as I had boiled him a chicken or a rabbit, with lemon ſauce, when he did not dine out in London? I told him eight or nine different ſoups, which I deſcribed. But he preferred the Queen of Scots ſoup, be⯑cauſe, it being the month of May, eggs, chickens, and parſley were eaſy to be had. [134] So I commonly made him a little of the Queen's ſoup, which he liked very well. We went poſt. At the ſtage before we came to Liſle we ſlept all night, and went away in the morning, and forgot my maſter's little trunk, with his money and papers. When we had come three miles, my maſter aſked me for the trunk. I ſaid, It muſt be left behind. He deſired me to go back for it. But the French horſe would not leave the chaiſe for me. I told my maſter, that, if he would ſend the poſtillion back, I would drive the chaiſe and four horſes to Liſle; which he did. I drove the four ſtallions the other ten miles. The poſtillion did not come up to us for an hour after we arrived in Liſle. I drove ſo faſt, that the people in Liſle were ſurpriſed to ſee an Engliſhman driving the King of France's poſt-horſes. We went on; and when we arrived in Ghent, the people there were making ready for a grand jubilee, which had been preparing for [135] half a year. The proceſſion was to take place in three days. The Ducheſs of Nor⯑thumberland was there, and many other Engliſh, and people from all nations in Eu⯑rope, to ſee this grand ſight. The Ducheſs and my maſter went to ſee all the prepara⯑tions, and all the churches, when ornamented. The beauty of the proceſſion was beyond deſcription, and a grand ball was given every night, with two bands of muſic; ſo that it never ſtopped. We left Ghent; and the next place we ſtopped at for a few days was Bruſſels, one of the fineſt cities in Europe. There were a great many Engliſh there. I went to ſee Prince Charles's ſtables, and his guards, and I was ſurpriſed to find how many Engliſh, Scotch, Iriſh, and Welſh, were in his light horſe, his guards. At Bruſſels there are the fineſt churches in the world. From this place we came to Liege, a fine large city. Here we remained all night, and next day ſet out for the Spa, about twenty-five [136] miles diſtant. At the half-way houſe my maſter went into the parlour, and ordered dinner, and we ſervants remained in the kitchen. Soon after, a Dutch gentleman, his lady, and daughter, came to the inn. They went in with our maſter to dinner, and we ſat at dinner in the kitchen with their Dutch footman, in a coarſe livery, and a large Dutch hat. He would not ſit with us, nor take off his hat, but cut ſome of the meat and put on his bread, and went into the parlour and eat it, and kept ſpeaking to his maſter and the ladies, with his large hat on his head, about the roads, the poſtillions, and the country. When his meat was done, he came out for another ſlice, and then went in again. Henry and I laughed till we were like to ſplit our ſides, to think our maſter was dining with the footman; for Mr. Crau⯑ford was ſo proud that he would not let a ſervant ride in the chaiſe with him, but would rather be at the expence of a horſe. [137] The gentleman in the parlour was in full dreſs, in black ſilk cloaths, and wore a dreſs hat under his arm. His lady was in a riding⯑dreſs; and the daughter, one of the-fineſt young ladies I ever ſaw, in a riding-dreſs, moſt richly trimmed with ſilver. They ſeemed as much pleaſed with their foot⯑man's behaviour as if he had been a prince. We all ſet off for the German Spa, where we arrived in the evening. There was Prince Ferdinand here, and a great deal of company. The Duke of Roxburgh, Mr. Smith, and our maſter, kept houſe together at Spa for two months. There is company at this place from all countries in Europe, in the ſeaſon. No gentleman is allowed to wear a ſword at Spa, by the Prince of Liege's or⯑ders, who ſends part of his guards there, in the ſeaſon, to preſerve the peace. The com⯑pany ſpend their time in drinking the water, riding out, walking on the walks, feaſting with one another, playing at cards, in public [138] balls, &c. A merry place, much like Bath, in England, for the amuſements.

When two months were over, my maſter ſet out for Aix la Chapelle, about thirty miles diſtant. We dined half way, at a large town called Veviers. Several plays were acting in the ſtreets, and many other ſports were going on. My maſter walked out to ſee them. We left Veviers, and ſtopped at the next inn between that place and Aix la Chapelle all night. There was a great deal of company in the houſe, but the beſt room was not engaged. My maſter was let in there, he being an Engliſh gentleman, and ſupper was ordered. Half an hour after this, a Flemiſh lady and her maid arrived in a chaiſe. She begged to lodge there all night. She was told the rooms were all full. She ſaid ſhe would make any ſhift, if there was an empty bed. The landlady ſaid, they were all taken up where ſuch a lady as ſhe could [139] ſleep, but one, which was very good, in the cloſet of the Engliſh gentleman's room.—Then give Madame Blond's compliments to the Engliſh gentleman, and that I deſire the favour he will let me ſit in the room with him till bed-time. She was going from the Empreſs's dominions into France. He was very complaiſant, and ſhe came up ſtairs into the room with all the politeneſs in the world. She ſaid, ſhe ſhould be glad to ſit in his room, as all the apartments were engaged. He ſaid, ſhe was extremely welcome; and he deſired me to dreſs ſome of the Queen of Scots ſoup, if I could get chickens, eggs, and parſley. I ſaid I could. As for Cayenne pepper, I al⯑ways had it with me. They went to cards till ſupper was brought in. The lady liked the ſoup much. She aſked if I was the Couſi⯑nier? My maſter ſaid, Yes. And I never loſt the name of Couſinier till I came back to England; for I was moſtly every day dreſſing one thing or other. After ſupper, [140] her maid and the houſe-maid made the bed in the cloſet ready. My maſter politely ſaid to her, Madam Blond, if you like, you may have this bed, as it will hold yourſelf and maid, and I will ſleep in the cloſet. She ſaid, By no means; I am extremely obliged to you for the privilege of the little bed. Come, Madam, we will play at cards for the large bed. They did ſo, and ſhe loſt. When the maid came to put her to bed, ſhe gave her maid ſtrict charge to bolt the cloſet door. Madam Blond ſpoke to my maſter in French the whole evening. She bade him good night, and deſired the maid again to be ſure to bolt the door: for the bolt was in my maſter's room. Next day, Madam Blond went to Spa, and Mr. Crauford to Aix la Chapelle, where we remained one month, at the Hotel of Madam Buches. The ball-room was in the ſame hotel. There was a ball three times a week. At dinner, every day, there was company of all nations in Europe. My [141] maſter jaunted all round Aix la Chapelle, to different places; a pleaſant country as can be, and the merrieſt on Sunday in the world. In the public-houſes, dancing and fiddling; in the field, football, and ſhooting at marks with bows and arrows. The ſhepherd boys meet in the evenings together, and play on the German flute, which makes it very agree⯑able as you are riding along the road. When my maſter left Aix la Chapelle, he ſet off for Liege, in company with Count Odenonde, with his own ſaddle-horſes and groom. John Pratt, whoſe brother lived with Earl Spencer, and Henry and I followed in the chaiſe. We were two nights at Liege. From this place we went to Bruſſels in the ſame manner, and remained there one week. My maſter ſent home his groom and horſes to England, and he went to Paris. At the next ſtage from Bruſſels there were only three horſes at home, in the room of four; for the chaiſe only two, there being ſo many [142] paſſengers on the road. Henry had one to go on, and the poſt-maſter was obliged to drive my maſter himſelf, with the two horſes. My maſter took me in the chaiſe with him⯑ſelf, though he never did ſuch a thing be⯑fore. I ſaid nothing. But by and by he aſked me ſome queſtions. Then I went on, and anſwered him in many things that he aſked me. I was ſo well acquainted with Major Joaſs's Hiſtory, and his Maps, and what inſtructions he gave me in them, that I entertained him a great deal. Next ſtage he ordered me a horſe, for he thought it be⯑neath him that I ſhould ride in the chaiſe with him. I rode on two ſtages, and then he took me in again for another ſtage. He ſaw I did not intrude to ſpeak till he began himſelf. What he aſked me, I anſwered. He ordered me a horſe again for two ſtages, Again I went in the chaiſe the whole way to Paris. I gave him an hiſtorical account of the families of Ireland, Scotland, and [143] Wales, and a deſcription of the country, which I was enabled to do from hiſtory and experience in travelling. I gave him an ac⯑count of his own family for five hundred years back. I ſaid, Sir, it would be of great ſervice to young gentlemen, before they go abroad, to make the tour of Great Britain and Ireland, and there they would ſee the ſeats of heroes; and learn many things, particularly among the people of Scotland, Ireland, and Wales, whoſe diſpoſition it is to reſpect former things, and learn their hiſtory without trou⯑ble. Sir, they are the moſt rural countries in the world, and the beſt ſupplied with fiſh and wild fowl; and they give you a view of mountains, lakes, vallies, hills, and ri⯑vers; and to travel through thoſe coun⯑tries is the beſt thing a young gentleman can do to lay the foundation of experience, by knowing his own country before he goes abroad; for the people of thoſe three coun⯑tries ſpeak about religion, and reſpect the [144] characters of great men. But here you will hear of nothing but eating and dreſs, and plays, and operas. All wickedneſs is tole⯑rated, and the Sunday is not regarded. The Engliſh often take up with men's wives, and when the ſame meaſure is returned to them, they don't like it; but in Italy and France thoſe things are not ſo much taken notice of.—My maſter ſaid, I would make a good Preſbyterian parſon.—In ſeven days we arrived at Paris, and put up at the Hotel de Parc Royal. We lodged on the ſame floor with the Princeſs of Poniatouſki, and her ſiſter, a Counteſs. They both viſited my maſter often. We remained in Paris three months. My maſter had a coachman, cha⯑riot, and a French footman. He did not take me behind the carriage, but I got a French maſter, the ſame as I had at the German Spa. I loſt no time to improve myſelf. My maſter gave me a ſuit of French cloaths, hardly to be known as a livery; ſo [145] I became entirely the Frenchman. I dreſſed with my ſilk bag every day, and ſtill retained the name of Coufinier, for I dreſſed one ſoup or other every day; and if he dined out, if it was not far off, I took it to him.

One day he had the Duc de Lauzun, Count Lauragay, Count Oudenard, Earl of March, Earl of Carliſle, the Earl of Sea⯑forth, Charles Fox, Eſq. George Selwyn, Eſq. the Princeſs, and her ſiſter. My maſter had always his dinner from the Hotel de Bourbon. But I dreſſed the Queen of Scots ſoup to perfection; it pleaſed the company ſo well, both French and Engliſh, that my maſter next day gave me two louis d'ors. I made different ſorts of Scots ſoup; in place of barley, I put rice, and made it very ſtrong of the meat, well ſeaſoned with herbs and cayenne pepper. I called it Soup d'Angle⯑terre. I taught the Duc de Lauzun's cook to make it. The gentlemen made parties to [146] Verſailles, Chantilly, and St. Cleod; and my maſter treated Mr. Henry and me to all the playhouſes and operas in Paris. I was com⯑monly in the evening to wait in the way, if my maſter ſhould come home to tea. The Princeſs had a houſe-maid, a pretty Poliſh girl, to aſſiſt her waiting-maid. As ſhe was obliged to be at home, I had her company often to drink tea with me, and to walk out, when time would permit.

In the month of January, 1768, we ſet off for London. We ſtopped for ſome time at Almack's Houſe in Pall-Mall. My maſter afterwards took Sir James Gray's houſe in Clifford-ſtreet, who was going Ambaſſador to Spain. He now began houſekeeping, hired a French cook, a houſe-maid, and kitchen-maid, and kept a great deal of the beſt com⯑pany. My maſter and Henry had words, and the valet had warning to provide for himſelf. About this time Mr. Sterne, the [147] celebrated author, was taken ill at the ſilk⯑bag ſhop in Old Bond-ſtreet. He was ſome⯑times called Triſtram Shandy, and ſometimes Yorick; a very great favourite of the gentle⯑men's. One day my maſter had company to dinner, who were ſpeaking about him; the Duke of Roxburgh, the Earl of March, the Earl of Oſſory, the Duke of Grafton, Mr. Garrick, Mr. Hume, and a Mr. James. John, ſaid my maſter, go and enquire how Mr. Sterne is to-day. I went, returned, and ſaid, I went to Mr. Sterne's lodging; the miſtreſs opened the door; I enquired how he did? She told me to go up to the nurſe. I went into the room, and he was juſt a dy⯑ing. I waited ten minutes; but in five he ſaid, ‘"Now it is come."’ He put up his hand, as if to ſtop a blow, and died in a minute. The gentlemen were all very ſorry, and la⯑mented him very much.

When Henry was about going, my maſter had a ſervant recommended to him by a par⯑ticular [148] friend. When I ſaw him, and found he was hired to be the valet, I was ſurpriſed that one who had no experience, and was much inferior to myſelf, was preferred before me. I was very angry, and told my maſter ſo. He ſaid, He is ſtrongly recommended to me. So I gave my maſter warning. What is to be muſt be. I had farther to go than ſtop in London. My maſter had now a foot⯑man recommended by Colonel Campbell, of Argyle-ſtreet, one of the moſt accompliſhed ſervants in London; he ſpoke French, and could dreſs hair in perfection; his name was Samuel Cairncroſs, afterwards valet to Mr. Seton, the Earl of Panmure, and Earl of Dunmore. Had he been valet, I would have kept my place. So I left Mr. Crawford with two Scotch ſervants, though, before I lived with him, he ſaid, he never would have a Scotch ſervant, or a Scotch tradeſman. Af⯑ter this the people ſaid that I brought the Scots into favour.

[149] I went and lived with Mr. La Motte, the hair-dreſſer in Rupert-ſtreet, for four months, to bring my hand into hair-dreſſing again, for I was out of practice. One day William Boyd, ſervant to David Hume, Eſq. met me and ſaid, I know of an excellent place for you; as you dreſs hair ſo well, I know you will get the place. The gentleman I have in my eye has been in England five months, and he had a ſervant, a countryman of our's, who has behaved extremely ill. He is with my maſter almoſt every day, and he has been in the kingdom of Bengal theſe fourteen years. His name is Colonel Dow. He was at Mrs. Elliot's yeſterday, and I heard him aſk her, if ſhe knew of a good ſervant; for James, ſaid he, has uſed me very ill. Mr. Hume lodged at Mrs. Elliot's, in Brewer-ſtreet, Golden⯑ſquare. Go, ſaid Boyd, to-morrow morning, and enquire for Colonel Dow, and tell him I ſent you after his place. I attended in the morning, and went into the parlour. There [150] was the Colonel and James Macpherſon, Eſq. They kept houſe together. They aſked me ſome queſtions. Mr. Macpherſon knew my former maſters, ſo I was hired at ſeventeen guineas a year and a livery. The Colonel ſaid, You may dreſs me this morn⯑ing, and ſtay till afternoon. After I had dreſſed his hair, he gave me two guineas, and ſaid, That is to buy tea for yourſelf. I give the maids the ſame. As for the boy, what we leave will do for him; and I ſhall give you my old cloaths, if you pleaſe me. There was in the Colonel's houſe the greateſt plen⯑ty. Things went on very well, and I had many things given me.

The King of Denmark, about this time, gave his Maſquerade in the Opera-Houſe. I dreſſed the Colonel and Mr. Macpherſon as two Turks. The King and Queen were there that night in private. My maſter ſpent ſo much money on women, that I was tired [151] of waiting on them; though if many an hun⯑gry fellow had had my place, they would have taken care of it, if there had been a thouſand ladies. I gave warning merely on that account. My maſter hired a ſervant from Mr. Adams the Architect, a High⯑lander. The Colonel went after his cha⯑racter. Mr. Adams gave him a good one. He ſaid, He is a clean, genteel, good honeſt ſervant; but ſometimes he will get in liquor, and he is given to women.—Damn him, I like him the better for that. Well, anſwered Mr. Adam, he will juſt anſwer your purpoſe.

Mr. Macpherſon knowing me, and whom I had lived with, recommended me to the Honourable Keith Stewart, brother to the Earl of Galloway, who ſent his valet to find me out. He had taken a houſe in Piccadilly, and was going to ſet up a carriage. He wanted a fervant in livery to dreſs him, and [152] go out with a vis-a-vis. I went to him and was hired; and as ſoon as the Colonel's ſer⯑vant came home, I went to Mr. Stewart. We had a fine vis-a-vis, and as fine horſes as any in town. Our livery was the genteeleſt in London, richly trimmed with ſilver, and the coachman and grooms turned out as clean as any ſervants in London. Mr. Stewart was as good a maſter as any in London. If a ſervant was in fault, when he told him of it, it was only told as advice. He was a great hunter and a great gambler, and as accom⯑pliſhed as any gentleman in Europe. He ſpoke Latin, Italian, and French. He be⯑longed to Pinkſley Hunt. We were there very often, and in Northampton, and at Mr. Knightley's, at Foaſley. The Earl of Gal⯑loway and Mr. Nightley were married to two ſiſters, Sir James Daſhwood's daughters. It was the pleaſanteſt life in the world to live with him. He never was long in Lon⯑don at one time, but from one hunt to ano⯑ther. [153] There was not a ſervant in a hundred that could have endured the fatigue of his ſervice. His hours of coming home were from two to ſeven in the morning. I have had the chaiſe at the door many a time by ſix in the morning, to go to a hunt, before he had come home. When he came, at laſt, he would go up ſtairs, take off his bag, change his dreſs cloaths, and go into the chaiſe. Wherever the hunt was he went, ſometimes fourſcore miles. Sometimes I have come ſeventy or eighty miles by myſelf in the chaiſe to London, and my maſter with another gentleman in his chaiſe. We went to Oxfordſhire, to Blenheim, to Lord Fo⯑ley's, Lord Thanet's, Stow in the Hole, Cheltenham in Glouceſterſhire, Hampſhire, and Bedfordſhire.

The ſervant that Colonel Dow had got drunk often. When the gentlemen came home late at night, he would get up to fight [154] them. The Colonel found he would not anſwer his purpoſe, for he himſelf was ap⯑pointed by the Company to the Eaſt-Indies. He one day called in Brewer-ſtreet, to ſee Mr. Hume. Mrs. Elliot ſaid, Colonel, I hear you are going to the Eaſt-Indies again. Yes; but I have got a damned fooliſh fellow of a ſervant; he gets drunk, quarrels with the hackney-coachmen and chairmen, and knocks them down; they get a warrant for him, and I am obliged to be bail for him. I wiſh I had the ſervant I had laſt, Jack Mac⯑donald, to go with me. Mrs. Elliot ſaid, He lives with Mr. Stewart, you cannot have him at this time. I went to ſee William Boyd, Mr. Hume's ſervant. He ſaid he was ſorry I left Colonel Dow, and that the Colonel wanted to ſee me. I went and hired myſelf, for forty guineas a year, to go with the Colonel to India. I gave Mr. Stewart warning, and told him, I would not leave him upon any account, but to go to India. Who are you [155] going with? Sir, I am going with Colonel Dow. Mr. Crauford gave me a character; my maſter did not know the Colonel. And I ſaid, Sir, I hope you'll excuſe me, as I have a great deſire to go away. What the devil, do you want to go away? I uſed you better than ever I did any other ſervant. I let you ride in the chaiſe with me, and that is more than ever I did to Carpeneto, though he was out of livery; and if you were to ſtay, I would ſoon put you out of livery.—I made no anſwer.—He threw down his pen, with which he was writing a letter, on the floor, and went out.—Gimcrack won that day; and on Wedneſday, in the evening, Sir Charles Bunbury ſold him for ſix hundred guineas.—The Duke and Ducheſs of Kingſton made their grand appearance there after marriage, after the Duke had had her in keeping twenty years.—My maſter would not have been ſorry if the Colonel had gone without me; for, when the races were over, he went to [156] Mr. Nightley's, and afterwards to Farming⯑wood's, a ſeat of the Earl of Spencer's, both in Northamptonſhire. At that time there were nine or ten gentlemen and noblemen. Now you will ſee how God orders things that are to be. Lady Spencer was taken ill; an expreſs was ſent to Farmingwood's, and arrived at ſix in the morning, when my Lord and the company were at breakfaſt, before going a hunting. Orders were given di⯑rectly for all the chaiſes to be got ready with ſpeed. We arrived in London in the even⯑ing. I went to the Colonel. Well, John, you are juſt come in time to ſet off in the morning. I told my maſter at night that I was to go in the morning, as the ſhip was to ſail next day. He had company at break⯑faſt, and I could not get him to take the things off my hands. The Colonel ſent the Chairmen for me twice. At laſt the Colo⯑nel's ſervant came; ſo I came away without my wages or board wages.

[157] When I came to Liſle-ſtreet, the chaiſe and four horſes were at the door, and all the things ready to go, and my trunk in the paſ⯑ſage. The Colonel coming down ſtairs to go into the chaiſe, on ſeeing me, went into the parlour till I got my trunk on. At eleven o'clock, the Colonel and I went into the chaiſe, and at night we arrived at Deal. We were put in a room with two beds. I brought the things into the room. Supper was brought up. The waiter ſaid to the Colonel, Your ſervant muſt ſleep in this room, Sir, for there is no other bed. He ſaid, Very well. As it is late, waiter, bring ſome ale, and a bottle of wine, and you need not wait. So I eat my ſupper in the ſame room; and in the morning Captain Smith made a ſignal for all the paſſengers to come on board the Lord Camden, in the Downs; and that day we dined in the ſhip, on our way to Portſmouth. After ſtaying two days at Portſmouth, and the ſhip had got her diſpatches [158] from the India Houſe, Captain Smith of the Lord Camden, and Captain Savage of the Duke of Cumberland, ſet ſail together; as Captain Smith was the older captain, he took the name of Commodore; and the other ſhips had their ſignals from the Lord Camden.

After we were out in the Channel there aroſe ſuch a ſtorm, that we thought we ſhould have been all loſt together: and we put about, glad to get into Portſmouth again, with our lives; and there we remained ten days. The gentlemen were at the Fountain tavern all the time; we had nothing to do but walk about the country; at laſt the wind came about, and we made ſail on the tenth of April, 1769; we went on very well, and the ſhips in ſight of each other almoſt every day.

[159] The firſt place we ſtopt at was Madeira. It was a fine place; but we ſtopped there but one day to take in wines, and ſet ſail again. The Purſer died on the paſſage. Sometimes one died, and the burying was always before breakfaſt. At other times, a man or boy would fall over-board, and bury himſelf. A Lieutenant, going out paſſenger to India, wanted to do the ſame; but was caught hold of by the legs, and ſtopped from that raſh action, and taken care of. Something troubled his mind.

The paſſage is a pleaſant life for thoſe that have not much to do: to ſee the men catch⯑ing the fiſh and birds with a hook and bait; another ſtriking the fiſh with a gauge, an⯑other time drawing in a long ſhark; and whoever brings in a fine dolphin to the Captain, receives a couple of bottles of li⯑quor. We had a calm ſometimes for a week, and could not get on two leagues; [160] then a wind would ſpring up and blow the one ſhip on, and not come near the other for an hour or two.

The Colonel, on his paſſage, was writing the hiſtory of Indoſtan; and Mr. Wood, a Cadet, whom the Colonel took a liking to on the paſſage, he made him copy off what he wrote; and he gave me the rules of the army to write from, in order to keep my hand in uſe; ſo we three wrote in the Colo⯑nel's cabin; and when we were dry, I made grog out of his caſe; and when we were tired we went to walk on deck; there was ſomething always to be ſeen there: ſome of the men frighting or drawing a fiſh out of the water; the porpoiſes or dolphins play⯑ing; or the ſmaller flying-fiſh flying over the waves from the larger ones. In the evening, all that could ſing a ſong ſat down on the gang-way and ſung; and the gentle⯑men walked about and heard us; and, in [161] fine weather, the gentlemen viſited from one ſhip to another in their turn. It was a plea⯑ſant ſight to ſee the Commodore's boat let down along ſide, and the gentlemen going to dine out at ſea; and, when they came back, the Commodore would ſail about the ſhip like people walking in a garden; and we all looking out over the ſhip to ſee the gentlemen, more than a thouſand miles from land. The Commodore called for the great iron pot they had for the purpoſe, and bound a rope to the two ears of it, and let it down twenty fathoms; and then held the rope faſt, to ſee which way the boat went, back, or on our way where we were bound. The tide would carry us backward or for⯑ward, ſometimes ſix miles, frequently with⯑out wind. When we were going to croſs the line, juſt under the ſun, every one that had not been there before, was to pay half a crown towards grog, for the ſhip's men to drink; but there were three who would not [162] pay: a Scotchman, a Welſhman, and a Por⯑tugueſe ſoldier. It is the cuſtom to let thoſe who refuſe to pay, down from the yard-arm, by a rope round their middle, four or five fathoms in the ſea, three times each, one after the other. It was paſtime to the ſhip's company. Each of the three got two bot⯑tles of liquor from the gentlemen, to make merry.

We made the Brazils, in South America; but Commodore Smith would not go on ſhore. The wind being foul, run us to forty degrees ſouth latitude; and then we were obliged to run back to the Cape of Good Hope to get ſounding. After our departure we had a freſh gale from the Cape for Joanna; but a ſtorm aroſe, which made us looſe the Duke of Cumberland for a fortnight. We ſailed down between Africa to Madagaſcar, eight hundred miles. By this time a great many of the men had got the ſcurvy by living on ſalt [163] proviſions; and two duels were to be fought at Joanna by the Cadets.

We loſt ſight of Madagaſcar, and got ſight of Joanna, (a fine iſland, and a beautiful view,) in the month of Auguſt; every thing green, the very hills and mountains covered with ſhrubs. We were greatly ſurpriſed, when we came near the town and anchoring-place of Joanna, to ſee the Duke of Cumberland ſafe at anchor. We came to, and dropped anchor; and the ſhips ſaluted each other with their guns, which made the hills re⯑ſound.

The town ſtands on a level piece of ground, ſurrounded by many ſorts of trees, in parti⯑cular cocoa-nuts, with high mountains; and a large brook on each ſide of the town. The black people came on board from their canoes, in dozens, to ſell and buy things The boats were ſent on ſhore for milk, fine [164] water and fowl; and the Prince ſent word that he would come in the morning. That night we had plenty of milk and cocoa. The firſt thing that was done in the morning, was, to ſend the men on ſhore that had the ſcur⯑vy, to put them into the earth up to the neck, and to remain there one day; which is the moſt ſpeedy cure in a hot country. Their ſkin will be as black as a coal, when put in; and, in two days, they were as well as ever.

At breakfaſt the Prince came on board to take orders; he was the King's ſon-in-law, a very handſome man, in the Mahometan dreſs; he did buſineſs for the king and him⯑ſelf. He was over the King's cattle; he was glad to ſee the Commodore; he had known him many years. He came into the cuddy, with the gentlemen, to breakfaſt; he ate bread and butter, with a little ſugar over it. The Steward made him ſherbet to drink; he took orders for bullocks, fowls, goats, and [165] vegetables. There are no ſheep, horſes, nor ducks on the iſland, although it is thirty miles long. Each ſhip had a marquee pitched on ſhore for the Commanders to dine in with their company. Next day the Prince came on board; the Colonel took him to his cabbin, and ſhewed him books in the Mooriſh language, moſt richly bound in London, and pictures of all the gods in the Eaſt. The Prince was aſtoniſhed to ſee ſuch things come from England. He ſpoke the Mooriſh language to the Prince, and made him a preſent of ſome fine books of his own religion. The Colonel aſked him how many wives he had? He ſaid, four; and that one of them was the King's daughter. The ſervant that attended the Prince wore a ſword by his ſide. The Prince invited the Colonel to come and ſee him next day at the houſe where he did buſineſs, not where his family lived. He promiſed he would next day, after he was dreſſed, and Mr. Wood [166] with him. He ſaid, John, dreſs yourſelf, and come aſhore with me, and take a bottle of rum in your hand. We went, and walked all round the town: at laſt the Prince met him, and took him home; where we all went. The Prince made lemonade, and I put rum to it, which made good punch; we were all in the ſame company, but I next the door. The Colonel was a good man, and had the ſpirit of an emperor. The Prince's three ſons came to pay their re⯑ſpects to the Colonel; fine young boys; he ſpoke to them in Mooriſh; at laſt the Prince and his ſons went away; and ſoon after the Prince ſent a fine diſh of chickens, curried and boiled; rice broth in wooden platters; and three wooden ſpoons and wooden plates; we ate heartily, for it was very good: and the Colonel was very merry. He knew their ways; but, to Mr. Wood and me, it ſeemed ſtrange to ſee ſuch things. The ſlave-boy ſtood and wondered at us. When we were [167] done, he carried every thing away in a mo⯑ment. There was neither table nor chair, but fitting on a mat, ſuch as you kneel on at churches in England or lean your elbow on. The Princes came in ſoon, and made more ſherbet, and I put more rum to complete it. He made a little for himſelf; for, on account of their religion, they can⯑not eat nor drink with a Chriſtian. The Prince went out; and, ſoon after, came two fine black girls, the Princes ſlaves, dreſſed in the Mooriſh manner; they had rings on their fingers, ears, and toes, and bangles on their arms; their breaſts were covered with various ornaments; a large ring of ſilver hung looſe round the ſmall of the leg; it was very light and hollow. They had nei⯑ther ſhift nor ſtockings; but a thin ſilk gauze for a petticoat, and another, the re⯑verſe, from the waiſt upwards, faſtened on the left ſhoulder, like the dreſs of a Scotch Highlander. The petticoat is full, and [168] comes down as far as the ring on their leg; the fineſt dreſſed one entered firſt; put her two hands to her forehead, then to her breaſts, and with her two hands touched the Colonel's foot; this is called a grand ſalam; in like manner the other paid her compli⯑ments to Mr. Wood.

After the common compliments were over, I was going. My Maſter ſaid, John if I don't come on board to-night I ſhall in the morning. I walked along the ſhore, and went out with the laſt boat, about half a mile by ſea to the ſhip. At the bottom of the ſea, round Joanna, the coral grows up like ſhort ſpikes, that help the children in England to cut their teeth. The Prince ſent the books to the King's houſe. In two days he and his ſon came on board the two ſhips, with their attendants, and a band of muſic like two or three old bag-pipes, ſuch as they take through the ſtreets of London with the [169] dancing bears. The King was a ſtout old man, his own ſon a genteel Prince about thirty. The muſic ſtopped in the boat along-ſide. The King and Prince were entertained with biſcuit, butter, ſugar, and ſherbet. They went to ſee the Colonel's books, with which they were much delighted. The Colonel made the King a preſent of the Alcoran, the Bible of the Mahometans, in their own lan⯑guage, richly bound in London, worth four hundred rupees. The King invited the Co⯑lonel to his country-houſe, about ten miles diſtant. He promiſed to come next day. The Colonel invited Mr. Mathiſon, the ſu⯑percargo, from on board the Duke of Cum⯑berland, to accompany him. He was ready by nine o'clock, went on ſhore and met the Prince, who accompanied us. We were in company, the Colonel, Mr. Mathiſon, the Prince and I, and the Prince's ſervant, and the Colonel's black fellow, whom he had to attend him while in Joanna, and to carry [170] the umbrella, made of paper, over his head. I had two bottles of rum with me. We walked up the mountains along the foot-way through the fineſt ſhrubberies. We were two miles higher than the ſurface of the ſea. Many times we looked back. The ſhips looked like ſmall boats on the river Thames; and it is impoſſible to expreſs the beauty of the ſcene, or the fine ſmell of the trees, fruit and flowers; there is not a palanquin, or any carriage, on the whole iſland. The King walks wherever he goes, and his people have word about with him. The King's town lies in a valley, where no white man had been in the remembrance of any perſon living; and had it not been for the Alcoran nor we neither. The houſes were no more than huts, except a few higher ones for the King, and the Prince that had the King's daughter, his wife, here: and another where we came from, and where he has four wives at different places.

[171] It would have alarmed the inhabitants to ſee white people, had it not been known that the Colonel gave the King a preſent of the Alcoran. We arrived at the King's houſe for buſineſs. No perſon can go to the fa⯑mily houſes. The King and Prince of Jo⯑anna received the company kindly. There was plenty of fruit and lemonade, and I added rum; for we wanted refreſhment after walk⯑ing ten miles over the mountains. There was a bench like a taylor's work-board, co⯑vered with a Scotch carpet, which the King had got in exchange of trade, and which did well for ſitting on. Governor Ruſtan came in: he had the command of the town when the ſhips lay at anchor. He made a grand ſalam, and they all ſpoke the Mooriſh lan⯑guage; his ſon had the Colonel's linen to waſh. The capital mens' ſons at Joanna, when any ſhips arrive, come on board, get the paſſenger's linen to waſh, which is done by their ſlaves; they will ſhew you a [172] recommendation from one of the laſt ſhip's company. They charged a dollar for ſixty pieces, whether large or ſmall. In like manner you give a character from your hand, which they ſhew to the next ſhip's com⯑pany. They make the linen as white as ſnow. The King and the Princes taſted the rum, and then put a little in their ſherbet. They went away home, and ſent a fine currie, both of fiſh and chickens, and fine rice boiled. The Colonel's ſervant waited; and I had as much as I could eat, and there was punch enough. It was the beſt dinner I ever ate. After dinner the Prince and King of Joanna came and ſat a-while with the Co⯑lonel, and converſed; they ſpoke Engliſh very well; and ſaid, that Engliſhmen and Joanna men were juſt like, brothers. As we had more punch, the Colonel prevailed on the King to drink out of his own cup; the King made each of the two gentlemen a preſent of a turban of fine muſlin, richly [173] mixed with gold and ſilver; and I had one of an inferior ſort; and two young bullocks, and two milch goats, were ordered for the Colonel from Joanna. Next morning the Colonel thanked the King of Joanna for his politeneſs and attention. After converſing they both withdrew; in half an hour two fine girls came in with a veil over their heads and bodies. When they came in, that was thrown off. They were very richly dreſſed. I declare they were like a diamond; they made my hair ſtand an end to ſee them. I went directly out along with the black men: when I came home I lay down in a little appartment. The girls went off at five in the morning: I came in at ſix, and got ſome toddy from the cocoa-nutters, which we mixed with rum and fruit, and made a breakfaſt about eight. The Prince came to accompany the Colonel. After drinking ſome toddy, with rum, we ſet off, dreſſed in our turbans; the black man carried the [174] gentlemen's hats, and I carried my own. Every perſon looked at us as we went along, with the two bullocks and two ſhe-goats behind us. I never enjoyed more happineſs in my life than at this time, the walk was ſo pleaſant, and every thing agreeable. We walked along where no white man living had been but ourſelves. All the people were very deſirous to ſee us. As we walked along, the Colonel made a remark on our turbans; the Colonel's was rich blue and gold, Mr. Mathiſon's red, rich with ſilver; and my turban green, with gold at the ends; juſt the colour of the three orders in Great Bri⯑tain, the garter, the bath, and the thiſtle. It was a little laughable, as the King gave thoſe three colours by chance. The gentle⯑men converſed as they walked along; they aſked the Prince if the King was rich; he anſwered that the King had ten thouſand dollars in ready money: he told how plea⯑ſant it was in the ſouth part of the iſland; [175] and that there he had one of his wives, and that in Raham Iſland he had another. This lay on the eaſt ſide of Joanna, where he had cattle.

We arrived at Joanna town at twelve o'clock; the Colonel ſent one bullock and the two milch goats as a preſent to Commo⯑dore Smith, and the other bullock to Captain Savage of the Duke of Cumberland. As the boat was not ready to carry the two gentle⯑men on board the Lord Camden to dine, they walked about, and, to put off time, went into the Moſque. We all put off our ſhoes, which is the cuſtom. The two gentlemen were in ſcarlet, which looked very well with the turbans. On the paſſage the Colonel gave me an old ſcarlet coat. I cut off the ſkirts and made it a ſhort coat, which with the turban, looked better than theirs, more like that of a ſeapoy officer. The people came and admired us much at ſeeing us go into the [176] Moſque. We got on board to dinner. As I ſpoke ſo much about the currie, twelve of us made a party to dine on ſhore next day. As the King's ſilver-ſmith was on board, we aſked him to make ſome currie, to which he agreed. The Commodore's cook, and ſer⯑vant, ſhip carpenter, ſhip ſteward, the boat⯑ſwain, and ſome midſhipmen, were in our party. We all walked a great deal, and then had an excellent dinner of currie and rice.

Next day the Colonel and Mr. Mathiſon went up the valley, to ſee the grand caſcade which falls over the rock, a quarter of a mile perpendicular height, one of the fineſt in the world. Before nine they went on ſhore, as they wanted to catch a diſh of trout. As both the Commanders were to dine on ſhore that day, in their marquees under the cocoa⯑nut trees, the men were all got well with good freſh proviſions. They had got wood and water on board, and all was ready for [177] ſailing, only waiting for a fair wind. I went to the Commanders when they were angling under the caſcade, where they had great ſuc⯑ceſs, having caught a large diſh of trout for their meſs. I carried brandy, and the gen⯑tlemen made a boy climb up the trees to throw down ſome cocoa nuts. They mixed brandy with the cocoa nut milk and drank it. They arrived at the dining-place at one o'clock with their fiſh. The two marquees were facing one another; and while they were at dinner the gentlemen drank to one another. There were two French horns be⯑tween the marquees, playing at dinner, and the evening was ſpent with pleaſure. The Prince came after dinner and ſat a-while, and the black people came and danced to the gentlemen. It was a dance with cudgel⯑playing, very merry.

Next day the Colonel was to dine on board the Duke of Cumberland, with Captain Sa⯑vage [178] and Mr. Mathiſon: they both went to angle as before, and I followed them with li⯑quor. At one o'clock they were on board at dinner; they told of their ſport, and how John always brought them a Scotch dinner, all drinking but no eating. I dined with the Captain's ſervant. I told them of our jour⯑ney up to the King's town. The wind came round to the ſouth-weſt, and Commodore Smith made a ſignal for ſailing. The com⯑pany broke up; the Colonel went into the boat, and I after him. In half an hour we were under ſail, with a fine wind.

Next day, when we were ſailing with a briſk wind and a rough ſea, the Commodore called me after breakfaſt, to cut his hair and put it in order to go on ſhore at Bombay. At that inſtant a Scotch boy fell over-board. The alarm was given. The Commodore called ‘"Down with the ſails, throw the hencoop over-board."’ All hands were [179] looking over. He was a boy about ſixteen; and as he was a fine ſwimmer, he put off his clothes, and got on the hencoop, where he ſat and held faſt till the ſhip was ſtopped and a boat let down. He was then a mile be⯑hind: the men went for him in the boat, took him in, fixed a rope to the hencoop, and brought him on board. He loſt his clothes, but he had enough given him by the gentle⯑men. We went on with a fair wind, and when we were on the coaſt of Malabar, one morning Captain Savage ſent the Commo⯑dore twelve hot rolls for breakfaſt, and a fine ſallad for dinner. The ſallad grew in two little gardens on the hind corners on the poop. As we were ſailing down the coaſt of Malabar, we ſaw a fight at ſea between the fleets of Hyder Ally and the Marrattas. We ſaw the firing very well for two hours. Hy⯑der Ally's fleet ſtruck to the Marrattas. Our two ſhips at this time were within three miles of each other. We arrived at Bom⯑bay [180] the middle of September, after all the rains were over.

General Pimble received the Colonel at the Marine Houſe, and took him to his country houſe at Maſtegan, a mile from Bombay Town, and cloſe to Meſſigan Vil⯑lage. The houſe ſtood on a hill almoſt ſur⯑rounded by ſea. General Pimble was then Commander in Chief at Bombay. The Colonel ſent a Sepoy for me and the bag⯑gage, and to ſhew me the way to the Com⯑mander in Chief's houſe.

Next day the Colonel went to Porrelle, in the country, to wait on Governor Hodges, and the day following he took the command of all the Sepoys on the Bombay eſtabliſh⯑ment. There were four battalions, which amounted to nine thouſand men. We were three weeks at General Pimble's, which was of ſervice to me to learn the ways of the [181] place. The General kept a great deal of company, and had a great number of ſer⯑vants. I waited every day at table. It is an old ſaying and a true one, go where you will, whatever place, you will find an acquaint⯑ance ſooner or later by chance. The Gene⯑ral's valet was a German, Adam la Plue.—When I was at the German Spa with Mr. Crauford, he was footman to Lady Spencer, but on ſome account he was obliged to re⯑treat to India as a ſoldier. He put himſelf down as a hair-dreſſer, and the General took him out of the ranks. He and I ſlept and eat together. Now I was out of livery, and he in livery. One morning the Colonel ſaid, ‘"John, bring my clothes, and dreſs me for the ball: I dine with the General in town at his own houſe, and we ſhall dreſs after dinner."’ As I was carrying my bundle, and Adam paſſing me on horſeback, I aſked the favour of him to carry it before him, for it was very hot; but he would not. I wait⯑ed [182] dinner, and in the evening the two gentle⯑men dreſſed in one room.

I went that night to ſee their manner at the ball, for the ſervants in India are excel⯑lent and ſober. When the Colonel came home, he ſaid, John, my hair ſtands up as well as when I went out, and all the other gentlemen's hair is down. I ſaid, Sir, the people here don't know how to uſe the po⯑made; for I had contrived to ſtiffen the po⯑matum with waxen candles. He anſwered, ‘"If you like, you may get a great deal of mo⯑ney here by cutting gentlemen's hair; and, John, as I have got the command of the Se⯑poys, I ſhall give a ball to the gentlemen and ladies at the Marine Houſe next week, and I ſhall deſire the favour of Buckthergee, the General's ſteward, to buy in all the things for ſupper, as you are a ſtranger. When it comes in you muſt order the ſupper, and the General's cooks will make it ready; and I [183] have hired Wanella, a Perſian ſervant to aſ⯑ſiſt you."’ Very well, Sir, I replied, I ſhall do my endeavour to ſet every thing out to the beſt purpoſe. I went and looked at the ta⯑ble room, and then aſked Buckthergee, who was a Mahometan, and had a ſervant of his own, what things he could ſend me. He gave me an idea of different things. I beg⯑ged of him to ſend four turkeys, two cocks, and two hens; the two cocks roaſted, ſet round with ſauſages, and two hens boiled, with oyſter-ſauce. I made out a bill of fare for ſupper, of fifty things, on a long piece of paper, after the manner of Europe. I made a circle round a crown, a half crown, a ſhilling, and round a farthing. I wrote the name of every diſh as it was to ſtand on the table, and I gave it to Silveſter the head cook, to put up in his cook-room. I ſet the table and the ſide-tables.—I had two ſilver epargnes full of ſweetmeats, and three cryſtal ſtands with ſyllabubs and jellies, in a row, on the middle of the table, with three rows of [184] plates, with fruits and deſerts from top to bottom. I was determined to exert myſelf. On the afternoon of the ball I dreſſed my⯑ſelf in a green ſilk waiſtcoat, double breaſted, with ſleeves mounted with gold, like a jacket. When the cook aſked a queſtion, he came to me to read the bill, and an excellent ſupper he did dreſs. The General's butler and I made negus and punch, and ſerved out the wines. All the black men ſeemed very well pleaſed to aſſiſt in any thing they were deſired to do, and ſeemed ſurprized to ſee an Eng⯑liſhman have the command. As ſervants, there were only two Europeans in the Iſland, Adam Le Plue with the General, (he did nothing but take care of his maſter's clothes and dreſs his hair,) and another with Colonel Gordon from Liſbon, (he dreſſed his maſter, and took care of the liquors, but to provide for a table he knew nothing), Colonel Keat⯑ing, Colonel Egerton, Mr. Ramſay, and Mr. Hornſby's butlers came. They were Moors. [185] The General's butler was an Aſiatic Roman Catholic. He deſired me to aſk them. I went and deſired them to aſſiſt me the night, as I was a ſtranger, and come to remain amongſt them. They made a ſalam, and ſaid they were happy to be at my ſervice the whole night; ſo I gave them ſome tea and cakes, but they could not eat with me, or drink liquor.

When the table was trimmed, and all rea⯑dy, before ſupper, the black men admired it, and ſaid, Your table looks like a diamond, Steward. I loſt the name of Macdonald that night, and got the name of Steward; for a head ſervant in India is always called Steward. The company aſſembled, the dancing went on; and when my fellow⯑ſervant, Wanilla, the Perſian, was taking round ſome negus to the ladies, he heard Miſs De la Guarde aſk the General, what gentleman that was in the green and gold? [186] Madam, that is John Macdonald, Colonel Dow's ſervant. The broad gold lace, though tarniſhed by day, ſhone among ſo many lights. At twelve the ſupper was ready, and carried up by the ſervants that came to wait on their maſters. The upper ſervants I men⯑tioned before put the ſupper on the table. I held the bill of the ſupper in my hand, to ſhew them to put every thing in its place. Every thing was done at a word; and they were more happy to be directed by me than by one of their own people. The company ſat down, and I put the bill before the Co⯑lonel. The gentlemen ſaid, they never ſaw ſuch a ſupper in Bombay, nor things better conducted; and the gentlemen were well pleaſed that the black ſervants ſaw a white man could order a ſupper as well as either of them, or better. When ſupper was over, the bill of fare was handed about from one lady to another, and they ſaid, Certainly this Engliſhman is a very good ſervant. The [187] company broke up at four in the morning. When I was putting the Colonel to-bed, he ſaid, John, I'll be damned but you conducted yourſelf vaſtly well at this ball, and with judgment; and the gentlemen give you a great character, and they ſay you have the beſt method of any with the black men. I anſwered, Sir, I am very glad I have done right, and given ſatisfaction. After this I was very much reſpected by the black men. The Colonel gave one thouſand rupees for a ſaddle-horſe, and bought two horſes for his chariot, all ſtallions; he hired a firſt and ſe⯑cond coachman, and bought two ſlaves, one for the kitchen, and the other to help Wa⯑nilla and me. As the Colonel had taken a houſe, he went to houſekeeping. He got Captain Savage's ſecond cook, a black man, an American. The Colonel aſked the fa⯑vour of Mr. Mathiſon, the ſupercargo of the Duke of Cumberland, to be in the houſe with him as a companion, till the ſhip was [188] to ſail for Macoa, which was about three months. The ſervant Mr. Mathiſon had from England got to be a writer, therefore I dreſſed him. The Colonel and Mr. Ma⯑thiſon got four coollies each, to carry their palankin. The Colonel had a maſſall to car⯑ry the umbrella by day, and the flambeau by night; and a pair to run before the chariot or palankin, with ſwords drawn in their hands; ſo this was our family, without a maid-ſervant.

As my maſter made his fortune in Ben⯑gal, and was a ſingle man, he did not mind money; therefore he kept the beſt houſe in Bombay. The principal people dined with one another in their turn. The cuſtom is, where they dine they ſup; and there was no⯑thing to provide at home. As the country is very hot, my maſter told me to buy every thing that was wanting in the houſe. He got a liſt of the prices of every thing for the [189] houſe, and for the uſe of the horſes, from Buckthergee the ſteward. I paid every ſer⯑vant their wages the firſt day of the month always; if any did not fill their place, I turned him away, and hired another in his place, without acquainting the Colonel. Our houſe was called the firſt in Bombay for hoſpitality. The Colonel invited the Commander in Chief and his Lady, and the firſt gentlemen and ladies in town, to dinner and ſupper. The dinner was admired much, and the ladies ſaid, It is very odd we cannot have ſuch a dinner at our own houſes; yet there is not one woman in this houſe! And the General ſaid after dinner, Good God, how handy this young man is turned out! When I was putting the Colonel to bed, he told me ſo, and gave me great applauſe; and next day he gave me three ſuits of clothes, trimmed with gold.

In December Commodore Sir John Lind⯑ſay arrived at Bombay, with the King's ſhips [190] of war under his command. He ſent his ſteward, and the ſtewards of the captains under his command, to know the price of things in the iſland, the ſame as I learned from Buckthergee.—According to cuſtom, at Chriſtmas, the Governor gave a dinner to all the gentlemen in the iſland, about two hundred and fifty, and the ſame on the firſt day of the new year, and all we Engliſh ſer⯑vants waited, for there was a great many in Sir John Lindſay's fleet. We all dined to⯑gether, and each had two bottles of wine al⯑lowed him. The time of the year that is called winter in Europe, was ſpent in a jovial manner, in viſiting, balls, and entertainments. At this time an evil thought came into the mind of General Pimble, I believe for him⯑ſelf as well as for others. He wanted all the officers to wear boots on duty. It was againſt the caſt or religion of the Gentoo officers to eat beef, or wear their ſkins, even calves or ſheep ſkins. Some of the principal officers waited on the General, to tell him [191] they could not poſſibly comply with his or⯑der to wear boots, that were made of the ſkins of thoſe creatures, which was entirely againſt their caſt or religion; if they did, they would loſe their caſt, and be deprived of the company of their relations. The Ge⯑neral inſiſted that they ſhould wear the boots, or give up their commiſſions. They got three days to conſult with their friends, and return an anſwer. They put up prayers to God, and hoped that God of his goodneſs would not impute the ſin to them nor their children, but to the perſon who was the cauſe of their wearing boots of ſkins of thoſe beaſts, which was entirely againſt their reli⯑gion. The prayers were put up in the pa⯑godas at Bombay. They told him, they had determined to wear the boots, according to his deſire. ‘"Since, ſaid they, God has ſent you from Europe to give us diſturbance con⯑cerning our religious principles, and to de⯑prive us of our friends company, and the be⯑nefits [192] of our religion, we will ſubmit to God and your Excellency."’ So they took leave and went home. In three weeks the Gene⯑ral was ſmitten with the dropſy, and never recovered. About this time my maſter gave a dinner to Sir John Lindſay and his officers. The Colonel, Sir John Lindſay, Andrew Ramſay, Eſq. and Mr. Patterſon, Secretary to Commodore Lindſay, made an appoint⯑ment to go to the hot-wells at Dillanagoga, in the Marrattas country inland, over againſt Bombay. They were to go in the month of April. Commodore Watſon and other gen⯑tlemen were to go in another party to the ſame place. The General was getting very ill, his diſorder growing worſe every week. The advice of his phyſicians, Tennant, Bond, and Richardſon, was, to go to Bencoot, one of our ſettlements, a fine airy ſituation as any in India. People are ſent there juſt as gentlemen are ſent from England to Liſbon, or the South of France, for the benefit of [193] of their health. The General went to Ben⯑coot; and Colonel Gordon was left in com⯑mand, as being the ſenior officer. Commo⯑dore Watſon, his family, and party, were gone to Dillinagogue. Commodore Watſon be⯑longed to the Honourable Eaſt-India Com⯑pany. The Colonel and his party were pre⯑paring; and we ſet off in a large boat, with ſails, acroſs the ſea, and entered the great river of Tannah, with a veſſel following us with all the neceſſaries for an empty houſe, ſervants, two havaldars, or Sepoy ſerjeants, twelve Sepoys, with their arms, four palan⯑kins, with eight men for each, four ſaddle⯑horſes, with their keepers. We had plenty of proviſions with us for two days in the boats. I was greatly delighted, and thought it was a pleaſant thing to live under the Eaſt-India Company.

We paſſed Salſette, Carranjaw, and the beautiful country, and the banks of the river. [194] The people came in numbers to ſee us. The country people brought us ſome of them milk, others fruit. Before we came oppoſite the city and fortification of Tannah, which is near the banks of the river, the Colonel ſent his ſervant Ruſtan on ſhore, with a meſſage to the Governor, Rummagee Punt, for a paſſport. We waited three hours for it. We could not ſtir, nor go near the fort; if we had, we ſhould have been fired at. The gentlemen ſent their reſpects, and that they would do themſelves the honour to wait on his Excellency on their return. The paſſport came when they were at dinner. We ſet ſail, and paſſed the towers and walls of the fort in the afternoon. Thouſands of people were looking at us and the Sepoys over the walls. Our Sepoys had new cloaths, and all red and blue turbans. The two haval⯑dars were like two officers, two likely young men, Mahometans. In the evening, when the tide turned, we ſtopped. The gentlemen [195] drank punch, and ſung till they fell aſleep in the cabin. In the day, two of Mr. Ramſay's ſervants uſed the firſt and ſecond French-horns, which were very pleaſant on the river. I was the only white ſervant there. My fellow-ſervant, Ruſtan, told me he never heard of a white ſervant there be⯑fore. Sir John Lindſay's valet, a German, was left ſick at Bombay. His name was Longchamps, afterwards a great man at Newmarket.

In the evening we landed at the Bundy, a town, from whence we were to go by land to the hot-wells. We were all night at a rich Moorman's houſe, who was often at Bombay on buſineſs. He let Mr. Ramſay have an apartment in his houſe, for himſelf and the gentlemen. At the Bundy, a plea⯑ſant town, we left the river to go by land. The Moorman, at whoſe houſe we were, had a great many wives: and one Sally Percival, [196] a black girl, who had gone along with us, had an opportunity to go in where they were. She told them, the Engliſh gentlemen had a great deſire to ſee them, and begged to let her undraw the curtain, on the inſide the window. When the maſter, Afdalla, was gone out a little, they went and had a ſight, by looking through a window. They did not ſtay a minute, for fear of his return. One gentleman ſaid, They are pretty: ano⯑ther ſaid, They are richly dreſſed. I wiſh we had them here, ſaid another. This Sally Percival, whom I have mentioned, lived with a gentleman who had gone home to Europe. He gave her her freedom, and a great deal of money. Afterwards ſhe lived with Dr. Per⯑cival, by whom ſhe had a ſon: but the Doctor died, and left a great deal of money to Sally and the little boy. By this time ſhe was worth between four and five thouſand pounds ſterling. She had a town and country houſe in the iſland of Bombay. Dr. Tennant and Mr. Ramſay were her truſtees.

[197] In the morning, after the gentlemen were dreſſed, I and Ruſtan and Bigo, two Perſian men belonging to Sir John Lindſay, ſet out on horſeback up a valley about fifteen miles long. The gentlemen were to follow in their palankeens, and Sally Percival along with them. At the top of the valley were the hot wells, ſurrounded by the mountains. The valley was very pleaſant, about two miles broad, with a ſmall ſerpentine river on our right hand. As we rode along we ſaw a large fort on the top of the hill, that contained a thouſand men; and there was another on our left hand, on the top of a very high mountain, near Dillinagogue. When we came to Dahoo, a village half way to the Wells, we ſtopped to have ſome milk and cocoa-nuts. My horſe picked up a ſtone in his ſhoe. I knocked it out with another ſtone, which made my hands dirty. I went to waſh them in the puddle that lay near the well of the village. At that time a farmer's [198] daughter came for water, a pretty girl, a Gentoo. She had her ſlave girl with her, to carry the water home. She was ſorry to ſee me waſhing my hands in the dirty water; therefore ſhe poured water on my hands out of the pitcher. I waſhed my hands, and dried them with my handkerchief. Then I made her a low ſalam, and took hold of her hand. A freeman's daughter at Bombay would not have done ſo for any money, they are kept at ſo great a diſtance from the Eng⯑liſh. When ſhe went away, I told Ruſtan ſhe was a fine girl. He ſaid, She was very well pleaſed that you made her a grand ſa⯑lam before her ſlave girl. She thinks we are all your ſervants, by your having that fine gold-laced hat, and gold on your coat. Moſt people of the village came to ſee us, whilſt we were drinking our milk. After we left this place, as we purſued our journey, there were ſome mares feeding. Our horſes being ſtallions, were like mad things after the [199] mares. They ran after them, ſo that we could not ſtop them, and began fighting with one another. We were therefore ob⯑liged to throw ourſelves from off their backs. Ruſtan, Bigo, and I never were more happy in our lives than when we got ſafe off their backs. When the three horſes' keepers came up, who were a little way behind, they got hold of the horſes with great diffi⯑culty. We got on horſeback again, and ar⯑rived at Dillinagogue in the afternoon. A while after the gentlemen arrived. The houſes were made and covered with branches of trees. The building of a houſe would coſt eighteen half crowns. There was no rent to pay; but when the gentlemen went home, before the rain ſhould come, which is about the end of May, the farmers take the houſe for firewood. There is plenty of fiſh, fowl, mutton, wild boar, hares, and other provi⯑ſions cheap. The gentlemen drank the waters, dreſſed, played at cards, and after dinner ſlept [200] an hour or two; then in the afternoon they rode out on horſeback, and in the evening played at cards again.

After we had been here ſome time, the tiger came at night, and paid our hen houſe a viſit. As it was very eaſy to break open, he killed the fowls and took them away.—After this a Sepoy was ſent up the tree to ſhoot him when he came, but he never killed one, as he commonly fell aſleep. Two weeks after we came here, a pattamar came with an expreſs of the death of General Pim⯑ble, at Bencoot, where he was buried. Next expreſs by a pattamar, brought an account that the ſhip that brought the genelemen that attended the General, in their return to Bombay, with Adam La Plue, the Ge⯑neral's ſervant, and the baggage, were at⯑tacked by the Cooleys. On their return home, in the battle, the fire of the Cooleys got into the ſhip's powder room, and blew [201] the ſhip up in the air, and all was loſt; and that Sir John Lindſay's head cook, went to bed at Bombay, well at night, and was found dead in the morning. The gentlemen were very ſorry, for there were a great many of their friends blown up with the ſhip.

In three weeks Commodore Watſon and his party went home, round the hot wells. This was the pleaſanteſt place I ever ſaw: fine large old trees in abundance, and many rivulets running down from the mountains all round. When we walked at night, we had a ſtick with a rattle on the end of it, to rattle as we went along to frighten the ſer⯑pents away, for fear we ſhould tread on them. I was very much delighted here with one thing: at Dillinagogue there was a tank, where the Gentoos bathe themſelves, and the women in particular. At the end of the tank is a piece of riſing ground, with a croſs fixed twelve feet high, where a prieſt ſits, moſt [202] days, naked as he was born. When the wo⯑men come to enter the bath, they make the prieſt a grand ſalam. They have a ſhift on when they enter the water. When a young girl, who has been betrothed for ſome years, is going home to her huſband, (for they mar⯑ry very young, and go to their huſband's houſe from their father's at twelve or thir⯑teen,) and on that occaſion goes to take the bath, with two married women behind her, ſhe makes a grand ſalam to the prieſt, and kiſſes his private parts, hoping he will pray that they may have children. I took a great delight in going to ſee thoſe ceremonies.

After being five weeks at this place, we returned home towards the end of May.—We went down the river to Tannah. The gentlemen ſlept in their barge on the river, and next day ſent a meſſage to the governor, to let him know they would wait on him. Rammagee ſent his compliments, with a [203] meſſage that he would be glad to ſee the gen⯑tlemen. He ordered a troop of horſe, and a company of foot, to attend them into the caſ⯑tle. Rammagee paid great reſpect to Colo⯑nel Dow, becauſe he was the Commandant of the Sepoys. He was as much honoured at Tannah as a King in Europe, becauſe he commanded the black troops, and ſpoke the language of the country.

When the gentlemen left the caſtle, the next place they went to ſee was the Portu⯑gueze or Roman Catholic Church. I fol⯑lowed the gentlemen there. I was very well dreſſed; and the two havaldars, or Sepoy ſerjeants, were with me. When we came near the church, the horſe and foot ſtood under arms. When they ſaw us, and knew that I was the commandant's ſteward, they ſounded the muſic and beat the drums, to give me two cheers. I took off my hat, and made a low bow; and the havaldars made [204] them a grand ſalam as we paſſed the ranks to follow the gentlemen into church. When the Colonel came out of church, he diſ⯑charged the Sepoys, and took the horſemen with him. The gentlemen were going two miles farther, to ſee ſome figures of the Gen⯑too Gods cut in the rock on the face of a hill. I had no deſire, nor the havaldars, to go on, ſo we returned; and we met Ruſtan and Bigo, the two Perſian men. I aſked them to go into a Roman Catholic public⯑houſe, where I treated them with ſome Per⯑ſian brandy. Each caſt had a cocoa-nut to drink out of; for they cannot drink with one another. I ordered the landlord to bring ſome fruit for each of them. They were all well pleaſed; and the maſter, his wife, and daughter, were very happy to ſee a white Chriſtian viſitor. I drank out of their own cup; and the landlord broiled ſome fiſh called Sparling. So we feaſted, each religion by itſelf, till the gentlemen returned to the [205] barge to dinner. The Colonel gave the horſemen forty rupees, and to the footmen twenty rupees; ſo they were diſmiſſed very well pleaſed. The gentlemen played at cards and drank punch in the evening. Mr. Ram⯑ſay's two ſervants played on the firſt and ſe⯑cond french-horn, which very much enter⯑tained the inhabitants. Early the next morn⯑ing the tide carried us down the river into the ſalt water, and the ſame day we arrived ſafe at Bombay.

In the month of Auguſt, 1770, General Wedderburne arrived at Bombay from Eu⯑rope, with a commiſſion from the Honour⯑able Eaſt-India Company to take the com⯑mand of the troops in Bombay: and Gene⯑ral Pimble was to take the command at Ma⯑draſs, if he had lived. General Wedder⯑burne went to Parnell-houſe in the country, to wait on Governor Hodges, with his com⯑miſſion; and next day he took the command [206] of the troops in Bombay Green. This year was ſpent very agreeably between the King's and the Company's ſervants at Bombay.

In the beginning of 1771, Sir Eyre Coote arrived at Bombay, on his way to Europe, from Madraſs. He ſtayed ſome time, and was entertained by all the firſt people of rank in the iſland. There was a grand re⯑view of all the troops belonging to Bombay and Old Woman's Iſland, where the grand encampment was formed by General Coote and General Wedderburne. Sir Eyre Coote was going to Europe over land, through the deſerts of Arabia; and my maſter, who did not like Bombay, aſked leave of Governor Hodges to accompany Sir Eyre to England. His requeſt was granted. When he came home, he told me he was to go to England, and that he was to have a ſale in two days of every thing that he had. But you muſt get my cloaths, plate, books, and maps, [207] packed up: give a grand dinner to the council and all the general officers. I had been ill a great while, and the fatigue of this dinner made me worſe. I fooliſhly had got the diſorder of the country, and had not ap⯑plied to a proper perſon at firſt. I told the Colonel I was very ill, and he deſired me to go to Dr. Richardſon. When I went to ſee the Doctor, he told me if I went with the Colonel I ſhould loſe my life. I went to the Colonel and told him.—He ſaid, I am very ſorry; then I muſt take Stephen the cook with me; I can do no other. I went to Dr. Richardſon to aſk him if he would take me under his care in the hoſpital; for, as I did not belong to the company, I had no title to the hoſpital. He ſaid that he would. When I found he would take me un⯑der his care, I ſent him, the ſame afternoon, a faſhionable ſilver mug that coſt me five pounds in St. James's ſtreet, London. When the Colonel was going, he took me by the [208] hand and ſaid, that he had recommended me to Colonel Keating; and that if he came back, he would take me himſelf; and he paid me like an emperor. Next day I went into the hoſpital, and Mr. Richardſon put me in the firſt ward; and, in every reſpect, treated me as the firſt perſon there. I was there ſix weeks. When I was getting better, Colonel Keating ſent a meſſage, whenever I could get out, to come to his houſe till I got better. I returned for anſwer, that I would; and that I was much obliged to him.

One day, as I was walking out early in the morning, on the outſide of the gate, Major Pointing, who was exerciſing the Se⯑poys on the green, when he ſaw me, called me, and aſked me how I did.—I told him I was getting well.—Well, John, will you come and live with me when you get better, or come to my houſe whenever you like? I told him I was obliged to him, but that Co⯑lonel Keating had ſpoke to me to come to [209] his houſe. Then, ſaid he, you will repent that. You know I have the beſt right to you, as I have taken your maſter's place; and, if you ſerve me, you ſhall order every thing as you like. I ſaid, very well; I ſhall ſee and give an anſwer, Sir. We ſpent our time in the ward very pleaſantly; they were gen⯑tlemen's ſons, midſhipmen, or mates; we played at cards for tea, coffee, and ſugar, and ſometimes for our wine that we had in the hoſpital. So every thing was as agreeable as poſſible. Next morning, when the doctors came round and did their buſineſs, Doctor Richardſon called me out of the ward, and aſked me, if I intended to take a place, or go to England? I ſaid I would take a place.—Very well; I ſhall ſpeak to Governor Hodges to take you for his ſteward; as he ſpoke to me ſome time ago to get him an European ſteward to take the care of his cloaths, li⯑quors and plate; and if I can get that place for you it will be the making of you: and [210] you may ſleep in the hoſpital, or out, which you like. I told him I was much obliged to him. Next day Mr. Mathiſon, the ſuper-cargo of the Duke of Cumberland, came to ſee me, and to aſk me to come to Colonel Keating's houſe. The ſhip was returned from Macoa. He ſlept at Colonel Keating's, as he did at Colonel Dow's, before he went to Surat and Macoa: and he was very de⯑ſirous to have me there on account of hav⯑ing his hair done.

Another circumſtance probably made him deſirous that I ſhould come to Colonel Keating's. Mr. Mathiſon brought the fa⯑mous horſe Chillabie from Macoa, at this time four years old; he was chained in Colonel's Keating's ſtable, by the head and legs. He had killed one Arab at Macoa; and, on the paſſage, he had almoſt killed another; therefore the black man would not go near him. Mr. Mathiſon knew I under⯑ſtood [211] horſes. I helped Mahomed, the coach⯑man, to break in two mules he ſent to Co⯑lonel Dow, when he went firſt to Juddah. I went to the Colonel's houſe; and, by that ſtep, I loſt the beſt opportunity ever offered to me. After I was there, and my things with me, I had not fortitude to come away again. All that I did was to dreſs their hair, and to give orders to the black horſe-keepers about the mad horſe, as they called him: for I had very little ſtrength after coming out of the hoſpital. This horſe was called after a very rich merchant at Surat, who had eighteen or nineteen ſhips of his own, and a great many Engliſh gentlemen in his ſervice. He lived a great while at Bombay for his pleaſure. He was a jovial hearty fellow, and broke through the rules of his religion to have company with the Engliſh gentle⯑men, and to drink wine. He was a great companion of General Wedderburne's, and of the firſt rate men. He was a Mahometan, [212] and his name was Chillabie. In a few days Mr. Richardſon ſent for me; he ſaid he had ſpoke to the Governor about me, and I have given you a great character, ſo that you may go to Parrella as ſoon as you pleaſe. I ſaid, very well Sir; and I am very much obliged to you: I ſhall go when I have cut and dreſſed Colonel Keating's hair. When the Colonel was gone to a ball, I told Mr. Mathiſon that the Governor wanted me to live with him. He anſwered, if you go to Parrella, you will be confined in the country amongſt a parcel of Perſians; beſides, the Governor is very changeable in his mind, and puts his whole confidence in Gentoo Bramins. He went and told Colonel Kea⯑ting; and next morning, after breakfaſt, Mr. Mathiſon aſked me, if I went to the Gover⯑nor, or would hire myſelf to the Colonel. I ſaid, gentlemen, whatever you think beſt. The Colonel ſaid, John, your maſter recom⯑mended you to me, and I will give you as [213] much as Mr. Hodges; and every one in my houſe knows you. I will give you forty gui⯑neas a year, my old cloaths, and bed, board, and waſhing.—You will have the charge of every thing in my houſe. Bapu buys every thing for the houſe, but he is not always here; and he likes you very much. I agreed to ſtay; and the Governor was a little diſ⯑pleaſed. Next time, the Governor had the Colonel to dine with him at Parella; and in converſation, after dinner, with the com⯑pany, he ſaid, Colonel Keating, I do not like you becauſe you are ſo partial to the Scots. I cannot help that, Governor Hodges, for I think when I meet Scotchmen that are good, they are the beſt of men. Colonel Keating was Commandant of artillery and principal engineer; he had as many atten⯑dants about him as a royal, or a noble prince in England. Bapu was his head ſervant; he had a plantation of his own, and a large fa⯑mily. As he was above taking wages, the [214] Colonel made him a preſent now and then. Next to him were two Tindalls, petty offi⯑cers, and five Laſcars, as ſervants, excuſed from duty. Two would come in the morn⯑ing, and two to dinner, and two to ſupper, juſt as they liked; there was always enough of them, and the Colonel did not mind which: three cooks and three ſlave-boys al⯑ways in the houſe. A Tindall's command of twelve Laſcars on guard, night and day, at the gate: and an Engliſh coachman and three black helpers in the ſtables. When there was a large company at dinner, there was Bapu and Baba, and Shelk, and five Laſcars, all in turbans, beſides our ſlave⯑boys and ſtrange ſervants, all waiting at din⯑ner. Bapu was over us all when he at⯑tended; when he did not, then I was head⯑man. In regard of dreſſing the Colonel, and taking care of his cloaths, that was to my⯑ſelf. I took care of the ſide-table, and Bapu took notice and ſent me wine, He never [215] waited at table, but would ſit down in the fenander, come in to ſee what the Colonel wanted, put down the dinner, and take it off. The Colonel's perquiſites amounted to as much as the pay of the Commander in Chief. He had as many men at work under him, at cutting down rocks and building new fortifications, as coſt one hundred thou⯑ſand rupees per month; and when he came in his palankin, after breakfaſt, to ſee ſome hundreds of men at work, he was taken more notice of than the King of England at St. James's on a court day. There was one Captain Macneal, an engineer, an Argyle⯑ſhire gentleman, who aſſiſted the Colonel in his works. When I came I took a little trouble off his hand, in regard of receiving all the Colonel's money, as I was always in the way. I had a drawer that ran on wheels, to keep the money in. A paper was brought to me to receive ſo much money. I took care of the paper and gave an account of the [216] money. When a bill was to be paid, the Colo⯑nel put his name to the bottom. I received the bill and paid the contents; which leſſened Captain Macneal's trouble at home. When Bapu was to have a ſum of money, he brought the order, and I paid the money to him. I took care of the papers, and what I paid I marked in my book.

In two months after I was there, the Co⯑lonel was taken with a putrid fever. He was ſo extremely ill that, for twelve nights, I never went to bed, nor pulled off my cloaths: he had no nurſe but me. The doctors were all called for. On the tenth day he was given over: his friends were cal⯑led, and his will was made and read to him in my hearing. At twelve o'clock he ſaid, now, my friends, leave me to reſt. After the gentlemen had ſupped they went home, and all the black men were aſleep, for they are naturally very ſleepy; and I lay on the [217] bed with the Colonel, wetting his lips with a feather while he was motionleſs. At throe I took a looking-glaſs to put over his mouth to ſee if there was any life. By the glaſs I found there was life. I knew there would be a change at four in the morning; becauſe at four, the morning before, he changed from better to worſe. As I expected, ſo it pleaſed God, that from four, he received ſtrength more and more, as you would ſee the ſea flow. The gentlemen ſent in the morning, to know if the Colonel was dead or not. But, to their great ſurpriſe and comfort, they ſaw him ſitting up in the bed to breakfaſt. At nine o'clock his friends were very happy, for they never expected to ſee him in life again. The Doctors ſaid I had done great things; and they recom⯑mended me to go to bed, which I did. The Colonel got out of danger; but his diſorder was not gone. He changed his bed from [218] one room to another. And I ſlept in the room wherever he went.

By this time Governor Hodges was taken ill, and his illneſs increaſed; and the Colonel was ſo happy that he was better, that he told me one morning, with much ſatisfac⯑tion, that he dreamed in the night, he was playing at cards with Death, and beat Death. I anſwered, then Sir, you will certainly get the better of your illneſs. His diſorder turned to an ague. He went to his country houſe at Randal Lodge. It ſtood on the ſide of Malabar Hill. He was there two months. From thence he went to Mr. Ramſay's, at Mayan, where he remained one month; and afterwards to Mr. Jarvis's houſe in the woods. Here we re⯑mained three weeks; then we went back to Mr. Ramſay's again for a change. By this time the Governor was got ſo ill, that he was deſired to go to Bencoot, by his phy⯑ſician, [219] where General Pimble died and was buried; this made my maſter afraid. Gover⯑nor Hodges alſo was at Bencoot till he died. His remains were brought to Bombay; he had a very grand burial; he was laid in the church. The Colonel came to town again for a month; but there was ſo much com⯑pany to diſturb him, that he went to Ran⯑dal Lodge; but the putrid fever ſtuck about him ſtill. After all the doctors could do for him, he muſt go to Bencoot for the be⯑nefit of the air. A veſſel was procured and every thing got ready. The Colonel took me, the two Tindalls, Baba and Sheek, two cooks, two peons to run before him, one to carry the umbrella and the flambeaux; and ſix haymalls to carry the palankin.

We ſet ſail early in the morning, and with a fair wind arrived at Fort Victoria, where the Eaſt-India Company had one hundred and twenty as fine Sepoys as ever I ſaw, [220] beſides their officers and non-commiſſioned officers. The firſt gunner was born at Aberdeen in Scotland; he had been there ſixteen years, and was as black with the heat as the Sepoys. The chief was Mr. Cheap. The caſtle, and Mr. Cheap's houſe, ſtood on a high hill near the ſea, and a large river. It is a beautiful country, and a number of different fruit-trees grow along the face of the hill. Theſe Sepoys had nothing to do but to mount guard at the Chief's gate. A fine eaſy life they had. We had many ſorts of fiſh, chickens, mutton, lamb, and ſeveral other ſorts of proviſion. We lived very well. There were only four gentlemen, the Colo⯑nel, Mr. Cheap, Mr. Forbes, and Mr. Arden. They went out in the afternoon, the Colonel in his palankin, and the gentlemen on horſeback. As for me, I walked where I would for my pleaſure, with my little Sepoy called Toby. The Colonel let me have him for what I wanted. Wherever he went he [221] was called my little Sepoy. All he had to do for the Colonel, was to clean a pair of ſhoes, clean the night-pan, to do what I wanted, and to walk out with me. The Co⯑lonel reviewed the Sepoys, and had two of them flogged for ſleeping on guard. It was only to teach them to know their duty. The Colonel told Mr. Cheap, that Seedy might come and take the fort without firing a gun. Seedy was a Sovereign Prince, whoſe country lay near our's, and Fort Victoria would have been of great ſervice to him.

The Colonel got a great deal better by the air of Bencoot, and by taking the bark. When the Colonel was three weeks at Ben⯑coot, he had a deſire to go up the river forty miles to the hot wells, to take the bath. The name of the place where the wells are is Darygan. The Colonel went in Mr. Cheap's barge. I am going to men⯑tion one remark that was made by General [222] Pimble's lady at Bombay, at dinner. The day we ſet ſail for Bencoot, when ſhe was ſpeaking to the ladies about my maſter, ſhe ſaid, General Pimble went for his health to Bencoot, with Adam la Plue, his ſervant, and never returned. The Governor went, and he died. Now we will ſee what will become of Colonel Keating and John Macdonald. I will mention another thing before we go up the ri⯑ver, which may not be diſagreeable. The barge contained the ſour gentlemen, myſelf, and Baba, and Sheek, the two non-commiſſioned officers, as worthy fellows as ever lived. Their buſineſs was to prepare for the table; they never cleaned a knife, all the dirty work was done by by the coolies that carried the palankins. Every one had his buſineſs; and, according to their caſt, they eat toge⯑ther. The Moormen could not eat with the Gentoos, nor the Gentoos with the Moor⯑men. Baba and Sheek were Mahometans, and Mr. Cheap's man alſo, and the Gentoos [223] at dinner by themſelves. Our two cooks and Toby, and the other two gentlemen's ſer⯑vants, dined together, and I by myſelf, when the gentlemen had done: where they dreſſed their food under a tree they drew a circle round, and none of the other could come within that line. Before the Colonel's Lady went to England (for at this time ſhe was in London about buſineſs, and knew nothing of his illneſs) ſhe aſked the favour of Bapu, Baba, and Sheek, to bring their wives to ſee her, and ſhe would treat them with fruits and ſweetmeats. Bapu made anſwer, Madam, we are much obliged to you for your invitation, but we cannot do this: to let our wives viſit any European, nor let them viſit us; if we did, we ſhould loſe our caſt, and be deſpiſed by our relations, and every one of our religion. Our Lady's maid, Syl⯑via, who was a Malabar girl, has been to ſee them at their houſes; and ſhe ſaid, that Bapu's wife had as many bangels and jewels [224] as coſt four or five hundred pounds, for he was very rich; but Baba and Sheek were poorer.

We prowed up the beautiful river of Mart in the Coolie boats, ſometimes uſing a ſail, and at other times oars on each ſide. It was very pleaſant; moſtly very high hills, co⯑vered with fine trees of different ſorts, rivu⯑lets running down at different places, and the mangoes hanging on the trees, and other fruits in our view. It was a beautiful ſcene, as we ſailed along, to ſee the rocks, hills, and trees, and the birds of different kinds. We arrived at Darygan next morning. The place where the wells ſtood was level, and about two miles round, almoſt ſurrounded by mountains and groves. The waters were as hot as at Bath in England. The Colonel went into the bath early in the morning, and in the afternoon the gentlemen went out in their palankins; and then I took the [225] bath, to cure me of my late illneſs. The gentlemen employed their time here in the ſame manner as Colonel Dow and his party did at the hot wells at Dillinagogue. The citron trees grew in plenty before our houſe, and round the valley, and the fine large fruit hung on the trees in abundance. The coun⯑try people minded them no more than a frog-ſtool. The Colonel had a great many preſerved in jars, and taken to Bombay. As this was a Gentoo country, there happened to be ſome grand holidays, not yearly, but upon a particular occaſion, which only hap⯑pens very ſeldom. Monday was the day to draw the people together. In the great grove the Gentoos meet, dance in different poſtures, and throw a holy red powder on one another. They are dreſſed with flowers, particularly the women. They eat fruits and ſweet-meats. Baba and Sheek were glad to ſee this fête as well as I. I aſked Baba what that ſtage was for, ſix feet high, and as much [226] ſquare? At the end of the ſtage is a large poſt, eighteen feet high, with another of an equal length or more, fixed on the top of the poſt properly with an iron bolt; ſo that the one acroſs runs round like a weather-cock with eaſe. Sheek ſaid, Mr. John, you will ſee the grand ceremony to-morrow. Next day the fête was grander than the day be⯑fore, with muſic, dancing, dreſs, and feaſt⯑ing. A great many of the gentlemen Gen⯑toos came from the city of Marr, and amongſt them one very rich, and a great and good man. He had been married years, and had no children. I was told prayers had been put up by the Bramins in the pagodas; at laſt he had an only ſon. In return, he pub⯑licly goes through a torment in honour of his Creator, and the pure and undefiled Gen⯑too religion; and his name is handed down to poſterity amongſt the worthy as a ſaint, and his family reſpected.

[227] When the operation was to begin, he was ſeated on a table, under one of the ends of the crofs pole; an inciſion is made in each ſide, under his ribs, to let in each hole a ſmooth iron hook, like thoſe that let down a butt of beer to a cellar in London, with a ſtring from the rope that draws him up, round the breaſt, to keep him from pitching forward, and to keep him in the ſame poſi⯑tion. With the irons in his ſide, he is drawn up in a moment with a pulley. When he is up, there is one over him, who croſſes a rope to hold him there. His hands and feet are tied that he cannot ſtir. But take notice, there are weights on the other end of the croſs pole, to balance the perſon who is drawn up, and he who fixes him. So the muſic is playing, ſome are crying, others praying for him to get through his miſery. At the other end of the pole a rope is fixed, which a man takes hold of, and runs him round three times. Whenever he came to the ſame [228] place, they gave him a cheer; ſo he had three cheers when he had gone round three times. He was taken down in a moment, a cordial given him, his wounds were dreſſed, and he was carried home in triumph, with beating of drums, and muſic playing. Thoſe who remain behind dance in different com⯑panies.

At the top of the grove were the figures of their gods. Firſt was Ram, a man drawn with ten heads and twenty arms, to denote wiſdom and ſtrength; with a company of men and women dancing round him, like the ring in Greenwich Park. Next was Gunneſs, a man with four arms, and an ele⯑phant's head, to denote great wiſdom and power. Next was Drougah and his wife; and, on the left of all, Maſaſſoor, a man. There was the Globe of the Earth, the Ox, which is in all their pagodas, the Dove and Serpent alſo, and the Turtle. I went home, [229] and the firſt time I ſaw Viſtenorgee, a Gen⯑too, who was the Colonel's purvoo, or head clerk, I aſked him what the meaning of all the figures I ſaw might be? He ſaid, Ram was their principal agent between them and God; when he was on earth, he had con⯑verſation with God, and whatever he ſaid was a law with God; and how he beat and deſtroyed kings; and he gives us this coun⯑try to live in. By what Viſtenorgee told me, I found the Gentoos were the deſcendants of the children of Abraham, by Keturah, whom he ſent into the eaſt country, to puſh their fortune, and to be out of the way of his ſon Iſaac. Whenever you meet a Gentoo, they will ſay, Ram, Ram; that is to ſay, God bleſs you. By what I could underſtand of what he told me, Ram is for Abraham, Drougah and his wife for Iſaac and Rebecca, and Gunneſs is in re⯑membrance of Jacob, of his wiſdom, and power with God. The Ox they worſhip, [230] as being the cuſtom in the Eaſt at that time. The Dove and the Serpent, to ſhew you to be wiſe as a ſerpent, and harmleſs as a dove. The Earth, in remembrance of their fore⯑father Adam and Eve, who had the whole world under their command. The Turtle, to ſhew you to be ſatisfied with plenty and with poverty; as the turtle can live in the plentiful ſea, and out of his element, on dry land. Maſaſſoor they look on as a wicked being, ſo they worſhip him for fear while they live, and, when dead, deceive the demon, by burning the body, and throwing the aſhes in water, that he may not have it. The Gentoos never indulge unruly luſt, nor run into any ex⯑ceſs of wickedneſs, but keep in every reſpect to the form of their religion. If God approved of the conduct of the Reckabites, who would not obey Jeremiah, who was ſent from God with a meſſage, but their father's old com⯑mands, (Jeremiah xxxv.) how much more ſhall he excuſe thoſe Gentoos, who never [231] had the Bible to go by or direct them? The Colonel was getting better every day, by drinking the waters, and taking the bath, ſo that he was in very good ſpirits, and I was very happy in my own mind that he was re⯑covering, and that I ſhould have the plea⯑ſure of his returning to Bombay in perfect health; he eat very hearty, and drank mo⯑derately, and every thing was agreeable.

The gentlemen went out four miles in their palankin. In the evening they played at cards, and were merry, and all the attend⯑ants were happy with one another; the black men would have done any thing to oblige me, owing to my humility and good temper, though I ſay it myſelf. I gave them onions and gee, and curry ſtuff to dreſs their victuals, whenever they aſked me for any, for I had enough, and could buy whenever I pleaſed. They liked me ſo much, that they would have done any thing to deliver me out of trouble [232] if I had been in any; and they ſaid, Mr. John, you are a very good man, God is very good to you. I paid every man his board wages on Monday morning; every ſet by themſelves. I paid the Havaldar, and he paid the Se⯑poys. One day I took notice of the heat as I was walking by the river ſide, when the gentlemen were aſleep. The cattle lay down in the water. The crows ſtretched out their wings on the trees to cool themſelves, and panting for breath. I went into the room where the Colonel was aſleep, and looked at the thermometer, which was up at ninety-four. I took it and hung it under the mangoe tree to have the natural air of the country. I obſerved, in half an hour, it got up to one hundred and eighteen degrees of heat. I let it ſtand half an hour longer, and it neither ſtirred up nor down. I carried it in again to its place. When the gentlemen got up and went to ſit under the mangoe-tree for the air, where I put the thermometer, where [233] they drank tea, I told the Colonel I had been making two experiments when he was aſleep. What were they John? I took the thermometer and hung it under this tree, on the nail; and, in half an hour, it got up to one hundred and eighteen: I let it ſtand half an hour, but it never ſtirred. Sir, this was half an hour paſt two, and now it is five o'clock. The gentlemen ſaid, good God, is it poſſible! they were ſupriſed to hear it. And, Sir, I have been making ſome tea of the citron leaves of the tree we gathered the citrons off to preſerve, and I have it ready. I brought the tea to them, and they liked it much; and ſaid, they never taſted finer tea, nor any thing more pleaſant to drink. By this time we had been here four weeks; and I had a great deſire to ſee the city of Marr, about two miles and a half from Darrygan, higher up the other ſide of the river. After breakfaſt I aſked the Co⯑lonel to let me to to Marr and ſee the place? [234] Certainly, John, if you like; and you may take Baba or Sheek. Very well; Sir, I am obliged to you. I ordered the dinner, and told Sheek and Baba I was going to ſee Marr; and that either of them that liked to go might dreſs themſelves. They were both deſirous to go: ſo they drew lots who ſhould go, and Sheek gained; and Baba to be with the Co⯑lonel at home. As the palankin-men were not wanted till the afternoon, I took four of them to carry us through the river, and they were very happy to go. I took the Havaldar alſo; we croſſed the water; the road was pleaſant. On both ſides were little hills covered with trees.

Before we came to the firſt Chochee, where was a Havaldar, Naigee, and ſome Sepoys, we ſaw one of the Sepoys running towards Marr. When we came to the Cho⯑chee they turned out and made us a ſalam, and we returned it. The Havaldar aſked us [235] ſome queſtions. We anſwered; and we aſked, what the Sepoys were gone on for? The Ha⯑valdar ſaid it was to give notice there was an European coming to the office of the next Chochee: and he ſent another Sepoy to the Governor to let him know there was an Eu⯑ropean coming to Marr: but of what ſtation he did not know. I ſaid to Sheek, it is very odd they took any notice of us. Sheek ſaid, they think you are a gentleman becauſe you are dreſſed in ſcarlet and that fine gold-laced hat. They think you are one of the gen⯑tlemen at the hot-wells, Mr. John, be⯑cauſe there are ſix of us attending you: in this country, they think every one that wears ſcarlet and gold to be a great man; and we are glad they think ſo. When we came to the ſecond Chochee, we ſat down, becauſe the Havaldar was a Moorman of Sheek's caſt. We had toddy to drink; and, ſoon after, a fine young man, a Jemmetdar or Lieutenant, came from the Governor to [236] know who I was. Sheek told the Jemmetdar I was Steward to one Colonel Keating that was at the hot-wells; and that I was deſirous to ſee the town. The Jemmetdar returned to the Governor; and, at the ſame time, I went to ſee the Roman Catholic church; and he came to us again, and told us the Governor deſired him to walk with us. We went to ſee the pagodas, the tank for bathing, all the Governor's horſes, and all the elephants and the camels; and to walk all round the town, which was very plea⯑ſant. The people followed, in hundreds, to ſee us. I ſaid to Sheek, theſe pretty girls are very fond to ſee us. He ſaid, Mr. John, they never ſaw a white man before, one half of thoſe people: and you are a very fine picture. Mr. John, the girls are very glad to ſee you. We went into a Portugueſe houſe. I had rice and currie; and I had arrack enough for the coolies to drink. Sheek had ſome bread-fiſh to eat, but he drank [237] nothing but water. The Roman-Catholic landlord was very happy; he and I drank hearty together; and he ſaid, I was the very firſt white man that ever was in his houſe. We were very merry; ſo I paid and came to the end of the town, when I gave the Jem⯑metdar two rupees, and took our leave. We came home about ſix o'clock. I told the Co⯑lonel what uſage we had. He ſaid the Gover⯑nor behaved very much like a gentleman, by ſending the officer with you. It was ex⯑tremely reſpectful. By the time we were here five weeks, the Colonel was got ſtrong and hearty, and was thinking of go⯑ing home again, and to go over land, and not by water. Mr. Cheap ſent us forty coolies to carry our baggage. It took twenty coolies to carry our proviſion cheſt, ſo we ſet out from Darreygan in the morning, with ſeven⯑ty-five men and boys, four horſes, ten bul⯑locks, two cows, and two calves. Mr. Cheap came two days journey with us, and [238] then took the Sepoys home with him. We ſet off early in the morning on account of the coolies. We did not travel in the middle of the day for the heat, but the morning and after⯑noon the gentlemen rode in their palankins, ſo altogether we were like a little army. The country, in compariſon, was like a large garden, ſo many ſorts of fine trees, with the fruit hanging on them in plenty. As we had every thing with us that was neceſſary, we furniſhed our places where we ſtopped in ten minutes. We commonly ſtopped where there were a great many ſhady trees, for we could not go into the people's houſes. No chriſtian is admitted, and there are no inns on the road; but they would ſell us, fowls, eggs, fiſh, milk, and fire-wood, and the cook would ſet up a pot, or a ſpit, in a few minutes, and we could buy provender for the horſes and cows, and ſet them a eating. The firſt place we ſtopped at, was a village under large mangoe trees. We put our tea-kettle to boil, [239] and ſet our tea-table and chairs, and there were a hundred, or ſeveral hundreds, to ſee them at breakfaſt, every thing about us was ſo ſtrange to them. They have no chairs, but ſit on the ground: my chair was the pro⯑viſion cheſt, where I had the liquors. We ſtopped to breakfaſt about ten, and there was time enough to dreſs dinner; we went on the road again after three, and went on till near dark. We pitched at Lowoos, and furniſhed our houſe as before; we lighted up candles, and put the liquor on the table, the Colonel to bed, and the other gentlemen ſlept in their palankins. I ſlept in my hammock, fixed up between two trees.

The gentlemen had a hot dinner and ſup⯑per, as if they had been at home. When I was marking down the money I laid out, Mr. Cheap aſked the Colonel if I kept a journal, the Colonel anſwered, I believe John keeps a journal of the rupees. This [238] [...] [239] [...] [240] night the gentlemen ſupped in publick; there was no danger of any rain coming. It was not the rainy ſeaſon at this time of the year.

I called the gentlemen before four in the morning, and I called Baba and Sheek, and they called the others, for the black men ſleep ſound. In half an hour we were all off the ground, and we went by the light of the moſal, or flambeau, till day-light. This day we had a mountain to go over three miles high. We got to the bottom or firſt part of the mountain about nine o'clock. We could get no water on the road. As we were beginning to go up, there was a hole, where there was a little dirty water. I put my handkerchief over the hole, and ſucked the water through it, and the other men took the dirty water up with a ſpoon, and drank it. We got up the mountain with hard work. On the top was the fineſt ſight I ever ſaw, juſt like a pleaſure garden, with ſo many trees [241] and flowers, and the meal was ſo fine, when we were beginning to go down the other ſide of the mountain, I was very happy in my own mind to ſee the ſea.

The ſun ſhined very hot upon us; but, in⯑ſtead of the ſea, what we ſaw two miles be⯑low us was a white cloud. The mountain was called Lowoo. When we deſcended from the mountains, we came into a pleaſant val⯑ley, where was a plenty of water for man and beaſt. We pitched beſide the river of Lowoo, under ſome very large oak trees. We were all very hungry, for we had come a great way that morning; we got breakfaſt as ſoon as poſſible, and afterwards we lay on the graſs under the trees and ſlept, and there were plenty of trees to cover the cattle, and plenty of graſs to eat.

There was a Gentoo gentleman that dined where we did. He made the gentlemen a pre⯑ſent [242] ſent of ſome fine mangoes; and my maſter gave him ſome pens and paper. We had plenty of fine fiſh, and ſome fowls dreſſed here for dinner. The cattle lay down in the river, and we ſaw a great many Gentoo women of the village waſhing their cloaths oppoſite to us. There was one thing on our ſide, we never had any thing to pay for our lodging-place, nor for our fruits; all was free.

We ſet out after dinner, and at night ar⯑rived at a Mahomedan moſque and burying ground. The burying ground was very large and pleaſant, therefore the gentlemen made it their lodging place, as it was ſhaded with fine trees. Baba and Sheek were very happy, as the prieſt of the moſque was of their own fect. We all ſlept in the church-yard, the gentlemen ſlept in their palankins, and I made my hammock on the grave of a Ma⯑homedan, and ſlept with pleaſure on the grave of a man I never ſaw. The Colonel deſired [243] me to give the prieſt twenty rupees. He put up a prayer for him and all his attendants. We went to ſleep; and the uſual time to call was four in the morning. I was the alarm cock; called Baba and Sheek, and they alarmed the others.

When I was helping the Colonel on with his cloaths, I ſaid, Sir, I have made a miſ⯑take. What is that, John? Sir, it is only three, inſtead of four. He ſaid, John, it is a very good miſtake. We ſet off, and by day-light Mr. Cheap and the Sepoy went home.

On that day we paſſed through a fine level country, and paſſed by three pagodas, and ſome fine villages. The Colonel called me on the road in the morning, and ſaid, John, I am going to ſend Baba on with a meſſage to Raggagee Angerry a ſovereign prince, he lives on our way to Bombay, and we are now going through his country. It is about twen⯑ty-ſix [244] miles to Cowrie, where he lives; and I intend to be there all night. I want you to give Baba Mr. Cheap's horſe, as he will go quicker on to the place. I gave Baba the horſe, and I got on the bullock; he had very high horns, and they ſtood ſtreight up; ſo I made a genteel appearance. We travelled till eleven o'clock; then we pitched at the bot⯑tom of a mountain, where there was a grove, and a fine ſpring running out of the rock. We breakfaſted there with pleaſure, and after dinner, at three, ſet off for Cowrie, in the afternoon.

Raggagee Angerry, when he had re⯑ceived the meſſage, ſent three different men on horſeback, one after another, to let the Colonel know he was extremely welcome, and that every thing ſhould be ready for him and all his attendants. The Colonel ſent one of the horſemen back, to let the Prince know he was coming, and then ſtop with us. Each of the horſemen [245] wore a ſpear in his hand, and they rode a fine Arabian horſe each.

Towards ſeven, we ſtopped to water our men, horſes, bullocks, cows, and calves. I ſaid to the Colonel, Sir, here is a fine well of water, and fine ſhady trees; for I thought we ſhould be late. This is as pleaſant a place as you have been at yet. The Colonel told Mr. Forbes and Mr. Orpin, John wants to coax me to ſtay here all night, but I will not be prevailed on; I ſhall go on to Cowrie.

We arrived between eight and nine: when we came near the fortification, I was ſur⯑prized to ſee the great elephant between me and the light of the moon. When the Colo⯑nel came to the houſe made ready for him, there were upwards of twenty noblemen and gentlemen to receive him; each of them ſa⯑luted him doubly, ſo that I was in pain for the Colonel till it was over. He went in and [246] converſed with them. They told him the Prince would wait on him in the morning.

There was a Havaldar and his Sepoys or⯑dered to mount guard at the Colonel's door, and there was plenty of proviſion ſent us; fiſh, fowl, rice, curry ſtuff, milk, &c. for all the attendants, and hay and grain for the cattle. We had no hot ſupper that night, becauſe the cooks were not come up. The gentlemens two ſervants were walking after us on the road, with their French horns on their ſhoulders, and our two cooks along with them. They often ſtopped to eat fruit, and being three miles behind the Jemmetdar, the commanding officer of a garriſon, as we came along, took them priſoners, to give them up to us next day: but at twelve at night the whole guard fell aſleep, and they made their eſcape, and came up to us in the morning.

[247] This day was certainly the moſt entertain⯑ing and pleaſant ever ſeen: the gentlemen breakfaſted under the jerrander, and before them were all the troughs for waſhing the elephants, and they were cleaned before them. The Colonel ſaid, one of thoſe crea⯑tures could devour us all, and, for all that, they ſtand like lambs to be ruled by their keepers. And the ſtable where ſix hundred horſes ſtood was before the houſe. The gentlemen went to ſee the horſes, and the place where the elephants ſtood.

The elephants were all brought and har⯑neſſed before the Colonel. At the deſire of their keepers they lay down to be harneſſed, and to have the chariot put on their backs; and at their deſire they got up again.

The place where we were at preſent, was cloſe by the ſea ſide. Each elephant had a petty officer and two men to attend and [248] clean him; and two of them were taken into the fortification that was at the end of the town, where were three thouſand men, fine fellows. The elephants came back ſoon with twelve fine girls, moſt rich and finely dreſſed. They ſtopped for all the elephants and a troop of horſe to attend the Prince to ſee the Co⯑lonel.

The Prince lived in a ſtrong caſtle, on an iſland in the ſea, about half a mile from ſhore. When high water, the ſea came round the iſland, and when low water, a man could walk to the caſtle and not wet his ſhoes.

The fortification in the iſland was ſtrongly fortified. About ten o'clock we ſaw Raggagee Angerry with ſix elephants and a troop of horſe and Sepoys, with a band of muſick along the ſands. I told the Colonel the Prince was coming. He turned about to meet him, and the two gentlemen attending the [249] Colonel. The firſt elephant carried the ſtandard, next the Colonel of the light horſe, and after him the Prince, then ſome of his Lords and gentlemen. When they alighted, the Colonel ſaluted the Prince and his com⯑pany, and went into the houſe, where they converſed for two hours, muſick playing the whole time. While they were in the houſe, I was admiring the elephants and the horſe⯑men. Each man had a ſword by his ſide, and a ſpear in his right hand. The Prince made preſents to the gentlemen, and ſaid to Sheek, I think I ſaw another European dreſſed in ſcarlet.—Yes, your highneſs, there is a very good man, ſteward to the Colonel, he pays all the money for the Colonel's at⯑tendants and his houſe-keeping. Call him in, ſaid the Prince, that I may ſee him. He gave me a turban and a piece of ſilk worked with gold, and he gave the ſame to Baba and Sheek. I made a grand ſalam and retired. When he was going, the elephants were cal⯑led [250] up, and fell down on their bellies till the Prince got into his chariot by a ladder, and in like manner did all the other gentlemen. There was only the body of a chariot, ſet on a thing like a mattraſs to ſave the ele⯑phant's back, fixed on by a flat chain, girth, crupper, and breaſt plate. Each elephant had a driver, who ſat on his neck, and two ſervants on his back behind the chariot. When they were all ſeated on the elephant, they went away in the ſame order as they came; then the gentlemen ſat down in proper form to a good dinner. The people were much entertained by ſeeing the gentlemen ſit on chairs round a table to dinner, for they them⯑ſelves have no tables, but ſit on a carpet on the floor to eat. After dinner, the Colonel of the light horſe went with the gentlemen to ſhew them all the gardens, bathing places for the Gentoos, and the grand Pagoda that Raggagee Angerry had built; we looked in at the door, and ſaw the lamp burning, but [251] we could not enter, being Chriſtians; they returned to tea, and the Colonel of the light horſe drank two diſhes of coffee, made by a Gentoo ſervant. My maſter prevailed on him to ſit on the chair, and they converſed toge⯑ther. My maſter told him of the works that were carrying on under his command at Bombay, which coſt the Honourable Com⯑pany one hundred thouſand rupees per month. After tea, the gentlemen played at cards, and the Gentoo Colonel left them at nine o'clock. Raggagee Angerry ordered the Aid-de-camp to go and ſee the Colonel ſafe to Bombay. Next morning we ſet off early, and we had one of the Prince's trumpeters on horſeback before us, to ſound his trum⯑pet when we were going through any town.

When we came outſide the Prince's parks, we ſervants fell behind to ſtop at a publick-houſe. I offered to treat them with ſome toddy. They brought ſome to each of [252] them in a cocoa-nut, for each caſt. The landlady did not offer me, at firſt; but was prevailed upon, at laſt, to bring ſome arrack in a cocoa nut-ſhell. All this day's journey was near the ſea-ſide in the Prince's coun⯑try. In the evening we came to Abdalla, belonging to the Prince, where we had every thing at the Prince's expence. Next morning the veſſel arrived to take us over to Bombay. The trumpeter was ſent back to Cowrie, and we all got on board and ar⯑rived ſafe at Bombay that day. His friends were glad to ſee him return, and the Doctor recommended him to live at his country houſe, Randall Lodge, on Malabar Hill, for the benefit of the air, and to uſe the bark; and accordingly he did ſo. His friends came to ſee him in the country. He went to town to do buſineſs; and when he had a large company he received them in his town-houſe; ſo I remained in the country, and Baba had the command in town. I always [253] had one of the cooks and Tobie, to ſtay with me when the Colonel was in town. At the country-houſe there was a Tindall that had the care of the houſe, ſlept there, and had a Gentoo girl that lived with him and paſſed for his wife. She deſired the favour of me to give her an old ſhirt; and I gave two one day. All the men were in town; and the girl and her niece were aſleep in the verandah, at the window of my room. I gave her a ſhirt, and ſhe made my bed, and was afterwards very handy; and I gave the Tindall and her a little arrack now and then.

One night the Colonel came home late. I put him to bed, and walked into the veran⯑dah, where all the ſervants were a-ſleep in different places. The veranda is like a ſhade in England, to keep off the rain and the ſun, where the gentlemen ſit in the day⯑time, and enjoy the air. I laid down on the Gentoo girl's left ſide; and, putting my [254] hand on her, waked and ſurpriſed her much. In a moment ſhe put her hand to my head, and diſcovered, from my hair be⯑ing cued, who it was. I would not intrude: but I went to bed. Next day I told her ſhe ſhould not lie ſo near the other people: ſo ſhe ſent her niece home, and laid the matt very near the window of my room. I thought it was not ſo hot where they lay, as in the room; ſo I lay ſometimes in the verandah; and then I put black things on, that I might not be diſcovered. Roſilla told me, if I lay ſo near her again, ſhe would tell the Tindall. I aſked her, ſeveral times, to eat with me when the Tindall was pre⯑ſent, but ſhe would not. ‘"People of our caſt cannot eat any food dreſſed for a Chri⯑ſtian, nor have any connection with thoſe out of our own caſt."’

I am going to give my readers a ſmall account of the iſland of Bombay. It is [255] about fourteen miles long; the town, of the ſame name, being at one end of the iſland, where all the ſhipping and all the buſineſs is carried on. At the other end is the town of Mayam, where there is a fortification.

In the middle of the iſland is the Gover⯑nor's houſe, Parella, Malabar Hill, where was my maſter's, Colonel Egerton's, Mr. Hun⯑ter's, Mr. Jervice's, and ſome others. It is like Shooter's Hill in Kent, but rather higher. At the one end is a Chockee, where there is always a European officer, having the command, on guard. When any ſhips ap⯑pear in ſight, a ſignal is made to the caſtle at Bombay.

About a mile from the guard-room is a village of the Gentoos, where is a pagoda and a grove. The hill is moſtly covered with large trees, and is hardly known by the Eu⯑ropeans, except a few that live in the iſland. [256] Here the Gentoos go through all the forms of their religion without interruption; and their gods are to be ſeen in proper form, as I mentioned of Darrygan. And all the Gen⯑toos, when they die, are burned on the iſland of Bombay, next day, by the ſea ſide; and the aſhes of the body are caſt into the ſea. When a huſband dies, his wife is ſome⯑times burned, by her own conſent and choice, with the dead huſband. If he has two wives, the firſt has a right to burn; and if ſhe does not like it, the ſecond ac⯑quires it. Sometimes if the firſt wife has no children, and the ſecond has children by her huſband, the firſt wife gives the right of be⯑ing burned up to the ſecond. If the mo⯑ther does not burn with her huſband, her children live in diſgrace. They are as glad to burn, as two women in England would be to get an eſtate; for they think that they go to Heaven directly when they burn with their huſbands. But theſe obſervations are confined to people of the firſt rank.

[257] When a woman has been married for years, and has had no children, and the huſ⯑band is deſirous to have an heir, the prieſts aſk her huſband if he will let her come and live in the holy place, amongſt their pagods, for one month or ſix weeks, to try whether, by her own faſting, and their prayers, they can prevail with their Creator that ſhe may have a child. If he lets her come, ſhe is taken good care of by the prieſts; and, as her huſband, who never ſees her all the while, waits an anſwer at the end of the time mentioned, if ſhe tells the prieſts that ſhe is with child, he is deſired to come into an apartment in the pagoda, where is one of their gods cut out of ſtone, the back to⯑wards the wall, and the head of pumice ſtone, hollow, with a pipe to convey water from the prieſt's room; he is to put a fine hand⯑kerchief on the head of the idol, and conti⯑nue there one hour, and then to take off his handkerchief; if he finds it wet, it is an anſwer that he is to have a child. A Gen⯑too [258] is only allowed two wives, but as many women as he can maintain. When a wife dies, he does not burn, but marries another. The manner of the women burning them⯑ſelves with their dead huſbands is as follows: A large pile of dry wood is made, and an arbour round it. The woman is dreſſed in her beſt cloaths and jewels. Her relations and friends walk about the place converſing; and num⯑bers come to ſee the ceremony. At laſt ſhe lays aſide her jewels, and gives them her fa⯑mily; ſhe takes leave of her children, and of all her friends, and is ſeated on the pile, having the body of her huſband laid on her lap. She ſpeaks to him for ſome time in a low voice; ſhe then drinks a ſtrong Nar⯑cotic potion, lights the wood, and the door is fixed. The muſic ſounds, and the drums make a great noiſe, and drown her cries. After all is reduced to aſhes, the ſpectators depart like people in England from a funeral. I ſaid to myſelf, Why ſhould I think this woman has done wrong? She [259] has done this to obtain heaven, and God's favour; and have not the great and moſt learned men in England and other Chriſtian countries done the ſame to gain heaven and God's favour, who had the Bible to direct them? The Hindoos or Gentoos have no Sundays, but many holidays; nor any people in the world but Chriſtians and Jews. I ſhall ſay very little of the Mahomedans; they are directed by their Alcoran, as we are by our Bible, and they bury in the ſame manner.

I ſhall now give a little account of the Perſian worſhip of fire in Bombay. About half a mile from the Gentoos pagoda, on the higheſt part of Malabar Hill, ſtands the Per⯑ſian burying place, a large round tower, built of ſtone and lime, with an iron door. Dogs are kept to give the alarm. No perſon but the prieſts is allowed admittance. The fire burns in their church night and day; and if their houſe were on fire, they would not ex⯑tinguiſh [260] it, but run for the Engliſh. The Perſians addreſs the fire, when they cook their victuals; they will not even breathe on the fire, but put a cloth over their mouths; and you cannot diſoblige them more than by throwing water on the fire. They will not blow out a candle with their breath, but they will with the wind of their hands. When I lived with Colonel Dow, the Per⯑ſian ſervant, when he went to bed at the hot-wells, brought the candle for me to put out. When we walked together, I have ſtopt till they prayed to the ſun in the eaſt. When their women are in labour, a perſon in the next room could not hear them, nor ſuſpect their ſituation. They bring forth their children on the bedſtead, with nothing elſe under them. Their manner of burying is this: they follow the corpſe to Malabar Hill, four miles diſtant, all faſtened one to another, and dreſſed in white. If one of them breaks wind, and the others ſmell the [261] ſtink, the man is obliged to ſit down on that place of the road, and never ſtir till the com⯑pany return from the burying-place; nor muſt he pray till they return. When they come to the burying-place, the dead is taken in naked at the iron door. After they have gone through their prayers, they call in a dog to ſmell the corpſe. If the dog wag his tail, and ſeem pleaſed, the company lay the dead perſon on his back, with his face towards the ſun; for they think he was a good man. But if the dog drop his tail, and turn away afraid, they think he has been a wicked man, and ſo they throw him down amongſt the bones headlong, and re⯑turn home. The birds of prey, which are always lurking near a Perſian burying-place, hover and prey upon the carcaſe.

Now I return to my maſter. When he was at the hot-wells, he had ſome enemies in the Council, who taking advantage of his abſence, examined his work at Bombay, and [262] made a wrong report to the Governor. The Colonel was diſpleaſed, and the diſpute ran very high; and he inſiſted on returning to London, and laying his complaint before the Directors of the Honourable Eaſt-India Company. This, in a great meaſure, hurt his temper, and he was preparing to go with the firſt ſhip for England. One morning, when I was dreſſing him at the country⯑houſe, he ſaid, John, whether would you ra⯑ther go to England with me, or remain in Bombay? I freely anſwered, Sir, I will go to any part of the world with you. Very well. Then you muſt come to the houſe in town, and take care of my things; for when the black ſervants hear I am going, they will begin to ſteal from me. Sir, I will come, and take great care. So I took my leave of Roſilla, and Randal Lodge, and came to town. Next morning General Wedderburne, the Commander in Chief, ſent for our coachman, Thomas Smith, to [263] live with him. He was an Engliſhman, and the only white coachman in the iſland; he was a drum-major, ſo the General had a right to command him; which made the Colonel very angry. Soon after this, my maſter deſired to ſee his cloaths, and he put them in different lots. When he had put them properly together, he called me, and ſaid, John, pack up theſe cloaths for me to to wear in Europe; and thoſe others I ſhall give to ſuch and ſuch perſons, and a few things that lie on the floor, of very little value, you may take them. Sir, replied I, if I remember right, you ſaid I ſhould have your old cloaths; I did not think you would uſe me like a boy. So you don't chuſe to take thoſe things? Yes, Sir, I will. I ſee, John, you and I will not agree together, ſo provide yourſelf. Sir, I replied, I thought I might ſpeak what I have ſaid. I ſee we cannot, John, ſo provide yourſelf with a maſter, and you ſhall go this day. I ſaid, Very well, Sir. [264] He deſired me to make out my bill, and he diſcharged me before dinner. The black men were extremely ſorry to ſee me turned off. Bapu ſaid, Is it poſſible, Mr. John, you are going away? Captain Macneal ſaid, John, where are you going? Sir, I am going to ſeek a place for myſelf. So I left the Co⯑lonel in 1772, after living with him fifteen months as well as a king; and during that time I had as much pleaſure as ever a man had.

So I went to lodge in the houſe of a ſer⯑jeant, who had married a black woman. In one week I was ſent for by Mr. Shaw, a Gentleman of the Council, and a great enemy of the Colonel's. I was hired at the town-houſe, and went to the country-houſe at Omercurry, a mile from town. Here was a great ſhew; but I had my liquor ſerved me out by a Gentoo purvow. Then I thought of the dream I had the night be⯑fore [265] I left the Colonel. I dreamed I fell out of my bed over a high rock, and could not get up till I went round a large mountain. Here was a large family of ſervants in the kitchen, two Portugueze cooks, and five ſlave boys; but none of the ſervants had any liquor but myſelf, and that was very little. I drank nothing but arrack, and what I wanted I bought for myſelf. Mr. Shaw had a public night every week, with a ſupper; and very often on that night a ball, beſides dinners to his friends who came on buſineſs. I was confined at Omercurry with the fever and ague every three days. I went to Dr. Tennant for the bark. He told me I had got the Colonel's diſorder, and the beſt I could do would be to go to Europe. I waited to ſee if I could get better, but rather grew worſe; and I had a great deſire to go to England. There was only one Captain, a Mr. Rice, to ſail. I went one morning to call for him, to know if he would give me [266] my paſſage to England. The Colonel came out of the dining-room firſt into the veran⯑dah, and ſaid, Well, John, are you tired of your new place already? No, Sir, but I am taken with the fever and ague, and I want to go home. I took no further notice of the Colonel. When Captain Rice ſaw that, he came out, and I made a bow to him, with my hat in my hand. Sir, I am come to de⯑ſire the favour that you would let me have my paſſage to England, as I am taken with the ague, and I will pay what you deſire. He told me he had not room, if I were to give him an hundred guineas. You muſt wait till the firſt ſhip that ſails after me. When I came down ſtairs, Sheek and Baba ſaid, Maſter John, you have done wrong; if you had paid the compliment to the Colonel, and deſired him to have ſpoke to Captain Rice for you, he would have got your paſ⯑ſage; but they find you bear anger. I ſaid, I am ſorry. I have neither craft nor cunning [267] to diſſemble. I went home, and remained till another opportunity. I had no work to do but to order. In the houſe was one Ruſ⯑tam, a Perſian, who had been ſteward many years, and was very rich. He was above wait⯑ing at table. He bought every thing; and when I wanted any thing, I told him, and he ſent his ſervant; for he kept one for him⯑ſelf, and paid his wages. Mr. Shaw would ſooner lay out a guinea for any thing, than he would five ſhillings for liquor; ſo Ruſtam bought for the table, and I made the bill of fare. The Moormen ſaid, Mr. John, we like you, becauſe God has given you a temper like a girl; and we can do every thing that we ſee you do, except to order a dinner, or large ſupper. We ſee in Bombay, that every thing is formed in your head before it is dreſſed, and where to put every man to his place. About two fields from Omercurry was Sally Percivall's coun⯑try-houſe. She took a walk ſometimes to ſee [268] me. When ſhe wanted a letter wrote to any diſtance, ſhe employed me. She was very fond of walking to our houſe, with her ſon in her hand. Omercurry was very plea⯑ſant: there were a great many large trees about the houſe, and fine gardens. My maſter was generally in town all day, except when he had company. When I went to write a letter for Sally Percival, I always dined with her; and the time was ſomewhat pleaſant. Except when the fit of the ague and fever came on, I was pretty well. When ſhe called for me, if I was not at home, ſhe deſired them to let Mr. Shaw's writer know ſhe wanted to ſpeak to him. She was a good-natured and a good-tempered woman as ever lived, and had not the leaſt pride, though ſhe was worth upwards of four thou⯑ſand pounds ſterling. Sometimes ſhe con⯑verſed with me about girls who had been in keeping by gentlemen. She ſaid, Mr. John there are two roads, a good and an evil one. If [269] I ſhould ſtep into the good one, I ſhould like to remain there. I ſaid, What you ſay, is right, Mrs. Percival, and upon my word, Madam, I believe, if you were married, you would make as good a wife as any in Aſia, and if I was good enough for you, I would propoſe myſelf for your huſband. O, do not ſay it, Mr. John, you are very good: if I like a man, if he had not one rupee, I would ſooner have him than one with two thouſand rupees, with a deceitful heart. All the gentlemen here ſpeak very well of you, Mr. John.

Before the Colonel ſailed, my maſter had ſaid ſome words diſreſpectful of him, and the Colonel ſent him a challenge. As my maſter was one of the Council, he made a report thereof to the Governor, and the Colonel was put under an arreſt, and confined ſor ſome weeks. Captain Rice wanted to ſail, as he had got his diſpatches. One night after, my maſter was going to Mount, where Governor Hornby lived, Mr. Shaw called me, and gave [270] me a loaded piſtol and a hanger, and he took the other piſtol and his ſword, and ſaid, ‘"John, come along with me."’ When we came before the gate, my maſter ſaid, ‘"John, ſtop there till I go in and ſpeak to Governor Hornby."’ When my maſter was in the houſe, one of the Aid de Camps, Captain Stuart, juſt alighted from his horſe. When Captain Stuart ſaw me, it being darkiſh, he ſaid, is this you John? Yes, Sir. Good God! what are you doing here in this warlike manner? Sir, I am here with Mr. Shaw, my maſter. Is he with Governor Hornby? Yes, Sir. So it ſoon got wing, and went through the whole iſland, that Mr. Shaw took John for fear of meetingwith Colonel Keating, and it afford⯑ed a laugh at many a table. Be ready, John, that is the Colonel. Sir, I am ready, it is only a buſh, Sir: but I declare I thought the Colonel was before us. Are you ſure, John, your piſtols are primed and flints good? Yes, Sir.

[271] Captain Rice ſailed, and Colonel Keating with him. I remained till Captain Thomas Taylor of the Hampſhire Indiaman arrived. As he viſited at my maſter's houſe, I aſked him if he would give me a paſſage to Eng⯑land. He ſaid, ‘"By all means; get yourſelf ready, and when I ſail for Europe, you ſhall go along with me."’

At this time I had the third day ague. When the Hampſhire laid at Bombay, Seedy, a ſovereign Prince (whom I mentioned be⯑fore) came to negociate buſineſs with the Governor and Council. He had a houſe made ready for him, and plenty of proviſion for himſelf and all his train. When he had tranſacted his buſineſs, he viſited all the principal men in Bombay, and wherever he came, he drank ſome coffee made by one of his own caſte.

[272] Soon after Seedy, the Prince, went away, the Nabob of Broach came on buſineſs with the Governor and Council; he had four hun⯑dred and fifty men in his train. The houſe al⯑lotted for the Nabob was joining my maſ⯑ter's town-houſe, and his tents were pitched before our houſe, and Governor Hornby allowed the Nabob's ſtandard to be ſet up at the head of his little camp. He continued at Bombay for three weeks: his attendants were very richly dreſſed: he had two bands of mu⯑ſic, which played all the night when he was aſleep, the one relieved the other.

When his affairs were ſettled, the Nabob viſited the Governor and all the Council at their houſes, and General Wedderburne at his country houſe, where he went on a viſit. He had two hundred men to attend him, moſtly in arms, with colours flying.

[271] When he came to ſee my maſter at Omer⯑curry, he entered our parlour, ſat down with our maſter, and converſed. All his principal ſervants entered and ſtood round the whole time, and I behind my maſter's chair.

It is thought a grand thing in Aſia to have an European ſervant. As the Nabob was a Mahomedan, our two ſervants, of his caſt, ſerved him with coffee, and the roſe water ſprinkled on the parlour. This was all the entertainment he had, where he viſited. He ate at home, and his victuals were dreſſed by his own cook.

The Hampſhire only waited for a fair wind. The paſſengers were all ordered on board. I took my leave of Bombay, and went on board, and then the ague and fever left me. I waited at the Captain's table, as there were a good many paſſengers, and I meſſed [272] with the Captain's ſervants. I got better every day.

The firſt place we ſtopped at was Tilli⯑cherry. Mr. Boddam was Chief at that time. We ſtopped ten days to take in pepper and other goods. The Captain took me on ſhore with his own ſervant, James Clerke, who was a fine ſinger, and we enjoyed ourſelves every night at an Engliſhman's, who kept a public houſe in Tillicherry. It is one of the pleaſanteſt places I ever ſaw. We next ſtop⯑ped at Cuchiline, which belongs to the Dutch: we ſtopped here two nights to buy proviſions, which were in plenty and cheap.

When we were a month out from Bom⯑bay, we ſtopped at Anjengoe, a place of our own, to compleat our loading. We were here a week: fowls ſold here at the rate of eight for a rupee, and pine apples at one [273] penny each, and every thing elſe in propor⯑tion. When an Engliſh ſoldier goes on guard, he takes two bottles of arrack to drink in the night.

When the Honourable Company's goods were all on board, and the ſhip ready to ſail, the wind blew very ſtrong, the ſea was very rough, and the Captain was afraid of a lee⯑ſhore. The Captain deſired his ſervant and me to go on board, and take the other gentlemen's ſervants with us. We carried the Captain's and the other paſſengers' linens. Anjengoe was the laſt port we were to touch at in India. The Hampſhire was two miles from ſhore at anchor. The Captain came to the beach to ſee us go over the higheſt ſurf, the higheſt in Aſia, except Madraſs. We got over the firſt and ſecond, but the third was about twelve feet high. It blew ſo ſtrong, that it threw our boat and all of us into the ſea, and with [274] a great ſtruggle we ſaved our lives and the articles we had.

After dinner, we were ſent back. Mr. Reinek the Chief came down to the beach to ſee the coolies do their duty in taking us off. At this time all the things were wet, and of courſe more heavy; we got over the firſt and ſecond as before, but the third over⯑threw us all together. The linens being wet, went to the bottom. The next ſurf knocked the coolie boat upon James Clerke, the Cap⯑tain's ſervant, and broke his thigh.

We had a hard ſtruggle for our lives. We came back to Mr. Reinek's houſe, and ſtopped till next morning. It being calmer, we got eaſy off; the things were all loſt. James Clerke was left behind, and when we got on board I took his place. We had a good paſſage for England, till we came between the latitude of the ſouth part of Madagaſcar and the [275] Cape of Good Hope. There we had tempeſ⯑tuous weather for three weeks, with a foul wind, ſo that the Captain furled the ſails and laſhed up the helm, and let the ſhip drive where ſhe would.

Captain Taylor and his officers were in great trouble of mind. We got ſo near the Cape, with a lee ſhore, that we could ſee the table land, and the Lyon's Rump, and had the wind continued, we ſhould have daſhed againſt the rocks; but it pleaſed God the wind chang⯑ed, and carried us further on the ſea. We had very bad weather going round the Cape of Good Hope, inſomuch that the whole ſhip's company expected every day to be loſt. Sometimes the officers on watch were knock⯑ed down on deck by a ſea coming overboard, and the men were waſhed overboard, and never ſeen again. One time two men were waſhed over, and the next ſea threw them in again. One of our beſt ſeamen was eaſing himſelf on the head, and a ſea waſhed him [276] away. He called out, A rope, a rope, Captain; but he diſappeared, and was never ſeen afterwards.

The weather was ſo ſtormy, that the ſailors ſaid they ſaw the flying Dutchman. The com⯑mon ſtory is, that this Dutchman came to the Cape in diſtreſs of weather, and wanted to get into harbour, but could not get a pilot to conduct her, and was loſt; and that ever ſince, in very bad weather, her viſion ap⯑pears. The ſailors fancy that if you would hail her, ſhe would anſwer like another veſ⯑ſel. At length we got into the trade winds, and had fine weather, ſo that we hardly ſhifted a ſail for two weeks, when the ſhip's company had eaſe after hard work. We came down with pleaſure to St. Helena, and ſtopped ten days. On ſhore I was acting⯑ſteward, and Captain Taylor's, ſervant. As they dine early at St. Helena, we walked every day after dinner up the country amongſt [277] the white farmers. As the country is very high, we could ſee a great way at ſea; and up the country we ſaw a great many white girls, farmers daughters.

St. Helena is a wholeſome pleaſant place, and a fine keen ſearching air. If noblemen and gentlemen of Great Britain and Ireland, would go to Madeira and St. Helena for their health, inſtead of going to France and Por⯑tugal, they would be ſure to re-eſtabliſh their health.

When Captain Taylor had ſtopped as long as he wiſhed for, and had got proviſions and water on board, he ſet ſail for the iſland of Aſcenſion, ſixteen degrees north from St. Helena. The Captain ſtopped two days to get fiſh and turtle for the ſhip's company, which are got there in plenty. No perſon lives on the iſland, becauſe there is neither water, rain, nor ſpring. The iſland has no graſs all the [278] year round. It is thirty miles round, and has very high mountains; but where the ſhips come to anchor it is level, and the ſand on the beach is as white as ſnow. When an officer and his men go on ſhore to catch turtle, the men run and turn them on their back, while they are aſleep at night on the beach. While they laſt, the whole ſhip's company have turtle to eat, and ſometimes one ſhip will catch forty or fifty large ones. From Aſcenſion we ſet ſail, and the firſt place we ſtopped at was Portſ⯑mouth, where we were a few days; and again we ſet ſail, and arrived at Blackwall, after a paſ⯑ſage of above ſix months, and I had been gone from England four years. I ſtopped with Capt. Taylor one month, till the ſhip was unloaded.

I was out of place three months. I hired myſelf to James Nowland, Eſq in Newman-ſtreet, Oxford-ſtreet. This gentle⯑man gave Mr. Shaw my character in the iſland of Bombay. When I left Colonel Keat⯑ing I lived with him ſix months. One Sun⯑day, [279] in particular, when he had company, after dinner he called for a pack of cards, and there happened to be none in the houſe, and I could get none to buy. He rung the bell in anger, and becauſe I could not get him cards to play, he turned me away. Next maſter I had, was Mr. Lecall, a Dutchman, who lodged in Pall-Mall Court. His Dutch ſer⯑vant had returned, and as I was acquainted at the houſe, I called there. By chance the miſ⯑treſs went up ſtairs and ſpoke about me, and as the people of the houſe knew me, he took me without a character. I lived with him three months. Every Monday morning he gave me fifteen ſhillings per week, and I had plenty of every thing beſide that I wanted. He had his dinners from the Star and Garter. He was as good a maſter as ever I met with. If he did not come home by twelve at night, I was to go to bed; and he came home to break⯑faſt. He ſaid, ‘"John, I am under the neceſ⯑ſity of going to Paris before I return to Amſterdam: you had better go with me and [280] I ſhall not have to hire a ſervant in Paris, as you know the city of Paris."’—‘"Sir, I will go round Cape Horn with you, if you pleaſe."’ So he allowed me one ſhilling per day more for travelling. We ſet out for Dover in a poſt-chaiſe, and croſſed over to Calais, and in the ſame manner ſet off poſt for Paris. We put up at Monſieur Semunnilie's Hotel de Park Royal, Rue Fauxbourg, St. Germaine, at the apartments Mr. Crauford had when I was with him in Paris. He found he muſt have a carriage, as there are not chairs as in London. I went to the ſame livery ſtables that furniſhed Mr. Crauford with a chaiſe and horſes, and I deſired a carriage to attend my maſter; when he ſaid, John, if you do not like to go out with the chariot, get a lackey's place. I told him I would go out with the carriage with all my heart, and ſave him that expence; and by going out with the chariot, I had one livre per day from the maſter of the chariot and horſes, as is the cuſtom in Paris.

[281] We were three months in Paris, which made ninety livres; for my maſter jaunted about Pa⯑ris and went to Verſailles. Louis the XV. was there at that time. It is a fine place; much like Windſor; and the gardens are very large. I went to the King's fine chapel on Sunday. The King, the Dauphin, and Dauphineſs were in the gallery, at the one end of the chapel. We ſtopped here one week.

I can hardly expreſs the pleaſure I had with Mr. Lecall. When his buſineſs was done, we went poſt to Liſle in Flanders, and we were there two days. From thence we went to Ypres, a city belonging to the Dutch. At this place his coachman came with his chariot and horſes, and ſtopped here one day to reſt the horſes. The coachman could not ſpeak French nor Engliſh, and I could ſpeak no Dutch; but we ſpent the evening agreeably together. The landlord was interpreter be⯑tween us. My maſter paid me, and went home; and next day I ſet off, and in two days [282] arrived at Calais, and croſſed over to Dover. After my arrival in London, I ſoon got another maſter to go abroad with, Mr. Daw⯑ſon from Dublin. We ſet off for the Ger⯑man Spa, through Flanders. My maſter had a great liking for this country. The people were juſt after his own heart; for he had a great deſire for gambling, and that is the de⯑light of foreigners. My maſter was gone from England one year, and in that he gain⯑ed one thouſand pounds; what he loſt and gained, he marked down in a book. One night at Liſtle, coming home, he told me, ‘"John, I have juſt gained one thouſand pounds."’ Sir, I am very glad; for that will clear your ex⯑pences. Very nearly, ſaid he. My maſter and a Mr. Stuart from Holland, a Scotch gentle⯑man, kept houſe together at Spa, while he ſtopped at Spa. In ſix weeks Mr. Stuart went home. My maſter then got Colonel O'Fagan, in the Emperor's ſervice, to be in the houſe with him. He had a German valet and footman. My maſter went very often to [283] Aix la Chapelle. At the hotel of Madam Buchie, there were always a great many ladies and gentlemen. She had a daughter married to a gentleman in Liege, and a pretty girl at home unmarried. Madam Buchie had her coachman and footman in livery, and ſo had her ſon-in-law, which made her houſe more reſpected by the ladies and gentlemen.

My maſter was in this country five months, in Aix la Chapelle, Spa, Liege, and Bruſſels, then in the winter at Paris, where we put up at the Hotel de Saxe, Rue Fauxbourg, St. Germaine. My maſter got a carriage, coachman, and footman, and he gave a rich livery, and made as genteel appearance as any in Paris. He went to Verſailles, and as far as Bourdeaux, where he had relations in the wine trade, and there we were ſix weeks, and then came to London by ſea.

[284] After being in London a few weeks, we went to Holyhead, in Wales, and to Dublin in the packet. Mr. Dawſon's houſe was in the Mall. He had a large family of ſervants. I ſtopped two weeks at his houſe; then he got me a maſter, one Mr. Brown, who was going to London on buſineſs. I hired myſelf with him two months. He lodged in the Hay⯑market, at the Seven Stars, a milliner's. He left London. Mr. Brown and another gentle⯑man took a poſt-chaiſe for Park-Gate. I was then out of place. Soon after I heard of a gen⯑tleman wanting a ſervant to go into Wales. Mr. Bate, at his hotel in the Adelphi, told me to go to Mr. Freeman in the Temple. When I ſaw him, he ſaid, Did Mr. Bate ſend you to me? Yes, Sir. I want a ſervant to go with me, as it is the vacation, and the com⯑pany is out of town, to dreſs me, and go round the weſt of England; and I want to ſee Wales. My ſervant is of no uſe to travel, as he cannot dreſs hair; ſo we ſet out in two [285] days for Oxford, Cheltenham, Worceſter, and Glouceſter, and Malvern Wells. He was well pleaſed with the journey, and liked the pro⯑ſpect and ſituation of the houſe at the Wells much.

When we left Glouceſterſhire, going over Malvern Hills, my maſter, as being before, ſaw a long bundle on the road. He ſaid, John, take up that bundle, and ſee what is in it. I got off my horſe and opened the bundle, and found two new ſhifts, a gown, two pair of ſheets, and two pair of ſtockings. It is your property Sir, as you ſaw it firſt. My maſter ſaid, John, lay the bundle on the ſtone, or hang it on that tree, and whoever has loſt it will find it when they come to look for it. I ſaid, Sir, I beg your pardon, but I had ra⯑ther not, but take it along with me, for ano⯑ther perſon may take it, whoſe property it is not. Sir, I beg you will let me take it. So we went on, and by and by a boy came running [286] along, and ſaid, Gentlemen, did you ſee a bun⯑dle, we dropped it from the waggon as we came from Glouceſter city. My maſter ſaid, Who does the bundle belong to? Pleaſe your honour, it belongs to my young miſtreſs, ſhe went with the waggon to buy the things that are in the bundle. She is going to be mar⯑ried next week. What is her name? Sir, her name is Molly Williams, ſhe is farmer William's daughter; ſhe is to be married to young Bob Giles, the cooper. My maſter ſaid, my ſervant has got the bundle, and when we overtake the waggon, ſhe ſhall have it. When we came along-ſide of the wag⯑gon, my maſter ſaid, My dear, I have found your bundle, I hear you are to be married. Yes, Sir. Take care of your bundle, otherwiſe it may not fall into ſo good hands again. Sir, I am very much obliged to you. I have one thing to tell you, my dear, take great care of your maidenhead, and if you ſhould loſe [287] it, if you do not cry O, you will never get it again.

We went to Roſs, Hereford, Monmouth, Chepſtow, Abergaveny, and back to Chep⯑ſtow again. My maſter admired this place much. He ſaid it was as ſweet a rural place as ever he ſaw: he ſtopped two days at the Three Cranes: he deſired me to have what punch I liked to drink in the evening with the farmers, which was the cauſe of a good deal of money being ſpent, and the landlord was ſorry when we came away. We croſſed the Old Ferry, and came to Briſtol; and next day we came to Bath, and ſtopped; and at the end of eight weeks from London he return⯑ed, after a pleaſant journey. I left him, and as I was coming along Coventry-ſtreet, I met one of Mr. Maines's clerks, the Banker in Jermyn-ſtreet. He aſked, if I was in place? I ſaid, Sir, I have juſt left one. John, go to Mr. Hill's, who lodges in Pall-Mall, [288] at No. 23. He comes out of Yorkſhire, and is going to France. He gets money at our houſe, when he wants; tell him you came from our houſe. Accordingly I went next morning; and being very well dreſſed, with a gold laced veſt, and other things in form, I went up ſtairs. He aſked me ſeveral queſtions; ſuch as, Did you go with theſe gentlemen as a ſervant, or as a companion? I am a ſervant, Sir, and not a proud one, I do aſſure you. Very well; give me your addreſs, and, if I want you, I will ſend for you. As I was coming out, I met a German going up. I went into the next publick houſe, and ſoon after this man came in. I aſked him if he had ſucceſs, he ſaid he had, and was to go to France with him. He ſpoke to me about you; and ſaid you were more like a gentleman than a ſer⯑vant; now, I am plain dreſſed, and I have got the place. Three days after I went after Sir Francis Hobburn's place. I was dreſſed plain, without lace. I went up ſtairs to him. He [289] was going on his travels. When he ſaw me, he ſaid, he had got one. When I came down ſtairs he rung the bell, and ſaid to his foot⯑man, how came you to ſend that fellow to me? Is he dreſſed like a perſon for my place, or like an interpreter? When he came down, he ſaid, I am ſorry I did not tell you to dreſs yourſelf finer, for Sir Francis is very nice. After this I was ſent to Sir William Abdy's place. I went at night, and well dreſſed. Sir William not being at home, Lady Abdy told me, ſhe did not want a ſervant. Three days after I ſaw the ſervant that ſent me after the place, who ſaid, I am ſorry you went dreſſed in a gold laced waiſtcoat. Againſt the candle light, it made a more rich appearance. She ſaid you were too grand for a family ſervant. I ſaid to myſelf, a man does not know what to do for the beſt in this world. The next maſter I had, I got in an odd manner, in Brewer⯑ſtreet, Golden-ſquare. I met an acquaintance of my own, who told me he had been after [290] a place. A young gentleman, at Mr. Gor⯑don's, an undertaker's houſe, was come to London for his health, and the advice of the doctors. I aſked a guinea per week, and he would not give it; if you like, you may go and ſee what he will give you. I told him I would, and bid him go into the publick houſe till I came back. I knew that a young gen⯑tleman from the country, not accuſtomed to keep a ſervant, would not give that money. I called for Mr. Lowrie at Mr. Gordon's, and I was ſent up to his room. Sir, I believe you want a ſervant. I do. After aſking ſome queſtions, and he was pleaſed with the an⯑ſwers, he ſaid, What ſhall I give you per week? Fifteen ſhillings, Sir, if you pleaſe. I will give you that, ſo come in the morn⯑ing, and there is half a crown to drink. I thanked him, and promiſed to be with him in the morning. I went to my friend and told him what had happened, and treated him with half a crown's worth of liquor. He [291] was like to hang himſelf, for not taking Mr. Lowrie's kind offer. Dr. Smith, a relation of his, attended my maſter. I lived with him near half a year. The doctor was very well pleaſed with my attention to my maſter; I was his nurſe and cook, and made all his drinks; it was a good place for me, as ever a man could wiſh to enjoy. I had ſeveral preſents for my attention.

My maſter got well and went into Scot⯑land; then I was out of place ſome months, and lived on the fruits of my labour: that was my cuſtom; when in place I was careful, and out of place I went genteel, and was ſo⯑ber, and was ready in three hours to go any where in the world. Next place I had was to live with George Spencer, Eſq Norfolk-ſtreet, in the Strand. I hired myſelf to him for forty guineas per year; he was a Madeira merchant and had his partners in Madeira. He commonly lived in Norfolk-ſtreet; but he went [292] into the country through the weſt of England, and he ſtopped in Bath and Briſtol weeks at a time: he was moſtly on the move; he de⯑lighted in travelling. When on the road, he never had a bottle of wine but I had part of it. He went to ſee his friends in Dublin, the Madeira merchants; and it was the only place in the world I liked to go to. I ſaw my old acquaintance; I gave a ball to all my friends, at a publick houſe in Capel-ſtreet, to upwards of forty people. That it might be no trouble to the landlord, I had one ham baked, and three turkies cold put into a ſide⯑room to eat when they liked. I gave punch, wine, and negus, and whatever the houſe af⯑forded. The company were all gone by two in the morning, being moſtly gentlemen's ſervants, men, and maids. When they were gone, I drank a bottle of wine with the land⯑lord. I had liberty the whole night. I paid my bill, four pound ten ſhillings; the muſick fifteen ſhillings, and five ſhillings to the two [293] ſervants for their trouble; in all five pounds ten ſhillings. There was neither glaſs nor plate broke, the company behaved ſo well. At this time I was called the handſome Macdonald. If I called for any perſon, if they were out, the maid would tell, when her fellow-ſervant came home, Mr. Macdonald called. Which Mr. Macdonald? for in Dublin there are a great many of that name; the maids would ſay, it was the handſome Macdonald, that gave the ball. In London, I was called Beau Mac⯑donald by the men, and the Scotch Frenchman.

We had great pleaſure in this jaunt to Ireland. My maſter went firſt to the city of Corke to ſettle his bills with the wine merchants, and then returned to Dublin, and afterwards to Belfaſt in the north of Ireland. We travelled in a noddy from Dublin and back again, that is, a one horſe chaiſe, and the driver ſits behind the horſe, ſo the horſe draws three people. On [294] the north road I could give my maſter a de⯑ſcription of the country, as I had been there before. We returned to Dublin, and then through Wales to London. I lived with my maſter one year. One day in particular my maſter dined out, and I waited on him, and at night we both came home merry; when I put his hair in papers, and undreſſed him, I took up his ſhoes in my left hand, and put his coat over the ſame arm; and ſeeing me do ſo, he ſaid, You take up my cloaths as if you had never ſeen any cloaths before.—Sir, I have handled better than yours many times. He turned me out of the room, and next morning he diſcharged me: ſo I loſt a good place for ſpeaking one fooliſh word, and I was very ſorry for it.

In two weeks after, I was walking through St. James's Park, and I met James Macpher⯑ſon, Eſq of Mancheſter Buildings. He aſked me if I was in place. I told him I had left [295] George Spencer, Eſq about two weeks ago, and got no maſter at preſent. He ſaid he was going to France, and would take me along with him. Come in the morning: I ſhall go to Dover to-morrow night, my black man will pack up my cloaths. I went in the morning, and we ſet out in a poſt-chaiſe to Dover that night, and next day croſſed over to Calais, and ſlept there that night. Next day we ſet off for Paris, and put up at the Hotel d' Angleterre, Rue Rukelow, and there my maſter was two months. He had a carriage, coachman, and footman. My maſter and ſome other gentlemen in company went to Ver⯑ſailles for one day. The palace is handſome, the gardens extenſive, and the ſtables the handſomeſt I ever ſaw in my life. At this time Louis XV. was ill of the ſmall-pox, and died while we were in France. When my maſter left Paris, he went poſt to Liſle, af⯑terwards to Ypres. We ſtopped in this city one week. The three Scotch regiments lay [296] here, called the Scotch Hollanders; they were commanded by Colonels Stuart, Gordon, and Johnſtone. I thought myſelf in Scotland, ſeeing ſo many of my own countrymen.

When we left Ypres, we went to Dun⯑kirk, and through Graveline to Calais, we were here two days, and then croſſed over to Dover, then home to London. As I was only with my maſter for the journey, I was paid next day; and again I was out of place. The next maſter I had was James Couts, Eſq banker, in the Strand, who was going to make the tour of England for his health. He waited one month in London before he could get a ſervant to dreſs him. He wore a wig over his hair. He had twenty ſervants that came, but they could not dreſs him. It required a perſon that underſtood the buſineſs of wig⯑making. When he was dreſſed, no perſon could tell there was any thing but his own hair; and he had the handſomeſt head and [297] face I ever ſaw in my life. He hired me; and next day we ſet out for his country houſe, at Hampton village, then for Cheltenham with our coach and four horſes, and two ſaddle horſes. My maſter was accompanied by his daughter, Miſs Couts, and her couſin Miſs Stuart of Allan Bank, in Scotland. There were the coachman and poſtilion, the foot⯑boy and I. When on the road, the firſt thing I did in the morning, was to knock at the ladies door to call them. At other times they got up when they pleaſed. At this time, there was at Cheltenham a great deal of company. My maſter lodged at a quaker's houſe, the pro⯑prietor of the wells. We went out every day airing. It is the cuſtom at the wells to go out after breakfaſt, and after dinner. We went to Morvin Wells, and to the city of Glouceſter, a night at one place, and a night at the other place, and back to Chel⯑tenham again. We ſtopped at Cheltenham two months, and jaunting about in this man⯑ner. [298] Then we ſet off for Worceſter, Birming⯑ham, Mancheſter, Preſton, Matlock-wells, and called at all the noblemen and gentle⯑men's houſes on the road, and ſo on in this manner to Carliſle city. We travelled to every part worth ſeeing in the north of Eng⯑land. We croſſed the Tweed from Cornhill to Coldſtream, and remained in that beauti⯑ful country, the ſouth part of Scotland, two months, viſiting from one family to another; but we were chiefly in the Merſe, at the houſe of Sir John Stuart of Allan Bank, my maſter's couſin. We went to Kelſo, Berwick, Dunſe, and went over to the Holy Iſland a few days; and we partook of ſeveral kettles of fiſh on the banks of the Tweed, which merry feaſts are always accompanied with dancing. When we left this place, we we went to Harrowgate. From thence we went to London, and afterwards to my maſ⯑ter's houſe at Hampton. After he had been at home ſome time, my maſter found he muſt [299] go ſome where elſe, and his phyſicians ad⯑viſed him to go to Italy for the air of that country, and he conſented; therefore I had warning given me, as he was obliged to have an Italian ſervant to take my place. Mr. Roſi was hired, but did not come home till my maſter was ready to go.

Mr. Couts was ſo well pleaſed with my ſer⯑vice for ſeven months, as I never was once out of the way, made of all ſorts of drinks that was ordered for him, and whatever he wanted, that he made me ſeveral preſents of cloaths; and when he paid me my wages, he gave me two guineas over, and told Mr. Brown, the wine-merchant in Craven-ſtreet, to recommend me.

I went to Dover with Mr. Couts, and re⯑turned when he and the ladies went on board of ſhip. I came back to London, and in two weeks Sir John Stuart of Allan Bank came to London on his way to Portugal, for the benefit of his health. I ſuppoſe I had been [300] recommended for his ſervant, when he ſhould come to London, by Mr. Couts. He called for me at two or three places. I heard of it. I went to him at Mrs. Elliot's, in Brewer-ſtreet, where he lodged. He told me he was going to Liſbon for his health; that he did not think that he ſhould live till he reached there; and if I was not engaged, he would take me with him. I told him I ſhould be very happy to embrace the offer. He had a carriage, and ſtopped a few weeks in Lon⯑don, and in winter, November, 1776, we ſet out for Saliſbury. Sir John was then twenty years of age: then for Dorcheſter, after to Exeter; there my maſter was one week wait⯑ing for Mr. March, a gentleman going to Liſbon, of his acquaintance. When Mr. March came, we went poſt to Falmouth, and we ſtopped there near a week till a fair wind came round. We went on board the Expe⯑dition Packet, Captain Robertſon, with a great many paſſengers, ladies and gentlemen, [301] many who had never been at ſea before. We ſet ſail with a fair wind. The weather was fine for that time of the year, but the fine day cauſed a great confuſion at night. The ſhip not being prepared for a ſtorm, the tar-pawl⯑ing not being over the hatchways, and other places open, a great ſtorm aroſe in the mid⯑dle of the night. When we got in the Bay of Biſcay, all at once all hands were called to ſave the ſails and maſts. The hatchways being uncovered, we ſhipped a ſea, which made the whole ſhip's company think we were going to the bottom. In a moment ſo much water came in, as ſet the cheſts a float⯑ing. In three minutes more, we ſhipped ano⯑ther, which knocked me out of my ham⯑mock. Then I believe we all ſaid, God have mercy on us. I laid in one of the men's hammocks in the galley, on the lee ſide; of courſe, on the lower ſide, for the ſhip was near on her broad ſide before the ſails were lowered. The cheſts and trunks rolled on me; [302] I could hardly get out: I crawled out with great difficulty, and went into the cuddy where the Captain and the gentlemen dined. My maſter was there in his hammock. When he ſaw me, he ſaid, Good God, John, I ſup⯑poſe we ſhall be all loſt, what ſhall I do? Muſt I get up?—Sir, do you lie ſtill, there is no danger, we have got a land wind. What is a land wind? Sir, a wind that comes from the land, that will drive us out to ſea, and then there is no danger when we have got ſea-room. I ſat and kept hold of the maſt, juſt beſide my maſter. By this time the ladies and gentlemen were in fits. When the ſails and maſts were ſaved, the hatches were cover⯑ed over. It rained, and the wind was wonder⯑fully ſtrong; but as God would have it, no lives were loſt. The Captain, and moſt of his ſhip's company, had their wives and fa⯑milies at Falmouth, and there was ſuch cry⯑ing for fear of never ſeeing them again. One of the mariners, that had been in the trade [305] for eighteen years, was frightened into fits. After the greateſt danger was over, the Cap⯑tain lay down; he got up again light headed. Sir John aſked me, if I did not think it beſt for him to get up?—No, Sir, you are in the beſt place you can be; for there is not the leaſt danger. Do not ſhew the leaſt marks of fear, and then they cannot laugh at you. The ladies have been in fits, and ſome of the gentlemen alſo. For my part, I have been in worſe ſtorms than this many times; and, had the ſhip been prepared, we ſhould not have been ſo ill off as we are. We waited with patience till ſeven in the morning; when I got my maſter up to clear the place for break⯑faſt. By this time he was glad that he took my advice to lie ſtill in the night. Finding things were out of danger, my maſter went on deck, where he ſaw ſuch a ſcene as he ne⯑ver ſaw before; the ſea was very high indeed, and the wind continued; ſo my maſter ſtood for one hour, without ſtirring, to ſee the [306] raging of the ſea, and the mariners putting things to rights after the night's fright.

Mr. March and my maſter were ſpeaking about the ſtorm. He ſaid, Sir John, this lets you know what the poor mariners go through in a hurricane, and in a battle at ſea. The rough weather continued, ſo that my maſter wore one ſhirt for ten days. Af⯑ter this we had fine weather, and kept our Chriſtmas on ſea, and the company was very happy; but one fine moon-light night we ſaw a man of war making after us, full ſail, and put up all the ſail we could; but ſhe gained on us, and the Captain made the ſhip ready to fight. The mail was brought up to be ready to throw overboard. They fired ſome guns after us to bring us to. Mr. Bowen, a gentleman of Falmouth, went on the poop; and I ſtood with him. He ſaid we were as ſafe there as below. The man of war was ſtill gaining on us, but the Captain [307] put off no time to make ready. By and by, two Portugueſe gentlemen came up to look how things were going on; and, that moment, a ball came acroſs our ſhip's rigging. They both went down directly to the paſſengers and told this. So you may conſider our ſitua⯑tion. We thought they would be all taken. Soon after, another ball came acroſs our fore-ſhip; and they hailed us, and deſired our Captain to lay too; and ſo he did: and, after all, we found her to be our friend; the ſhip was the Earl of Dunmore. The Captain of the Dunmore let our Captain know he would ſend one of his officers on board of us to hear the news, for he had been a great while from England. By and by this officer and boat's crew came to us as bold as heroes. I ſaid to myſelf, I will be damned but you have a great ſtock of impudence to put our gentlemen and ladies in ſuch a fear. By this time the paſſengers were come up to the Captain's dining-place. When the Captain received [308] the Lieutenant of the man of war, he en⯑tered ſo bold that the ladies looked at him with fear, ſurprize, and gladneſs; the ſame as the daughters of king Darius did at Alex⯑ander when he took them in their tents. He received the news; and, informed us of what he knew. He drank grog; and his men had grog to drink along-ſide. So they went away again, and the paſſengers went to bed with eaſy minds. For two days more we had a pleaſant paſſage, and got in ſight of the rock of Liſbon. When we came near the entrance of the river, a poor fiſherman came on board and took the command of the ſhip to pilot her into the Tagus to the an⯑choring-place, on the laſt night of the year. We all went to the Engliſh hotel, kept by Mr. and Mrs. Durar from Northumberland. Next morning, at breakfaſt, we laughed to think we had been in Liſbon part of two years. The hotel was large, and ſtood on the higheſt ground near Liſbon, neareſt the [309] ſea. There was a great deal of company in the hotel, Engliſh, Iriſh, Scots, Welſh, gen⯑tlemen and ſervants. Some had car⯑riages, others horſes, while they remained at Liſbon; and they made a fine appearance when they went together an airing. Sir John had a carriage and coachman and two ſaddle-horſes. The owner of the ſaddle-horſes was an Engliſhman, and he acted as his footman and groom. My maſter made the genteeleſt appearance of any gentleman in Liſbon. As my maſter and I were going into Spain, at our departure from Liſbon, we both had a Spaniſh maſter. We did not mind the Portugueſe language. My maſter made not any improvement in the Spaniſh language, he was ſo much out. But I ſtopt at home, and got my leſſon when the other ſervants went out amongſt whores, and af⯑ter their own fun; and they laughed at me for ſtaying at home; but, by and by, when their doctor's bills came in, I laughed at [310] them. And after eight weeks at Liſbon, when we were on the road, they were obliged to call me to interpret for them. When they left Liſbon their pleaſure there was over; and I enjoyed my own ſatisfac⯑tion. My maſter, though he could ſpeak French and Latin as well as Engliſh, was obliged to aſk me the names of things in Spaniſh; becauſe, when I was in Liſbon, I loſt no time; but learned as much of the Spaniſh language as I could.

Liſbon is the fineſt ſituation of a city in the world for trade and a fine air. It is built on ſeven hills, on the ſide of a fine ri⯑ver. You may ſee fifty miles acroſs a fine country, by looking out of the windows in Liſbon. The river is eight miles broad juſt againſt the city. If you are a mile on the river, in a boat, you may ſee every houſe in town, at one view. At this time General Maclean, a Scotchman, was Commander in [311] Chief of the army in Portugal. I have often thought he had more reſpect paid to him than the Royal family had to them. Soon af⯑ter we arrived in Liſbon, a princeſs died ſix weeks old. She had a grander burial than a king or queen.

People of age go into purgatory to ſuffer for their ſins, till they are prayed out of pur⯑gatory; but as ſhe had committed no ſin, ſhe was to be received into Heaven directly. At the funeral there were about fifteen hundred horſe in the proceſſion, carrying noblemen, and gentlemen; beſides car⯑riages moſt grandly dreſſed with caps and feathers. In a few days after, the King was taken ill, and kept his bed a long time, till all his phyſicians gave him over. They told the Queen they could preſcribe no more for him. She was the King of Spain's own ſiſter. She deſired to call Dr. Wade that at⯑tended the Engliſh in Liſbon. He was an [312] Iriſh gentleman. He was deſired to ſee the King next morning. The Queen ſaid to the phyſicians, what ſhall we do that the King may not be alarmed by ſeeing a new face? They anſwered the Queen, they would ſtand round the King's bed as uſual; and that Dr. Wade ſhould look through under one of our arms. It was agreed to by the Queen. When the Doctor ſaw the Queen, after ſee⯑ing the King, he told her he would give the King what would be of ſervice to him. So he ſaw the King every morning in the ſame manner as I have mentioned. He had the King ſix weeks under his care, which was the time he lived. Dr. Wade was rewarded for his ſkill, and he was alſo knighted; his name was now Sir John Wade, and he lived very much reſpected; and, when he was ſent for by the Portugueſe, he had double the fees they gave their own countrymen. Sir John, my maſter, jaunted round the country, and was got a great deal better, and began to [313] think of going over land to Cadiz, in Spain. He hired a chaiſe and mules, and mules for the baggage; and he had an interpreter to go as far as the confines of Portugal. There were two French gentlemen in company with my maſter, going to Cadiz; they had a chaiſe and black ſervant. After dinner we ſailed acroſs the river Tagus, where our chaiſes were ready, at the inns at Alldea Gallega, at the ſign of the Frog; there we were ſhewn up to a very long room with nothing in it; but, in ten minutes, I fur⯑niſhed the place. Henry, the interpreter, and I, put up our camp, table, ſtools, my maſter's camp bed, and Miſs Kitty's cur⯑tains. I opened up my little caſe with wine, and put it on the table for Sir John. We had one end of the room, and the two Frenchmen the other. I put out the tra⯑velling-pye, and the gentlemen had an⯑other. We had plates and diſhes made of tin, knives, ſpoons, glaſſes, pepper, our [314] own candles, every thing for our uſe. As it was early in the night for ſupper; my maſter aſked me if I could get him a diſh of the Queen of Scot's ſoup. I ſent Henry to enquire if he could get chickens, eggs, and parſley below. I made a fine diſh of ſoup, and Sir John invited the Frenchmen to ſup with him. They liked the ſoup, and ate nothing elſe. No perſon belonging to the houſe came near us; and we wanted nothing below but water, and a kettle to boil the ſoup. When I was in the kitchen, I had an opportunity of ſeeing the family go to ſupper. The maſter, miſtreſs, children, and maid, ſat down as if they feared God. He took off his hat, put it before his face, and ſaid grace. We all ſlept in one room; Henry and I had only one blanket, and our great coats under our heads.

From the time I left Liſbon, till I re⯑turned to England, I became, or travelled, [315] as a Roman Catholick. I had ſeen many different religions, and found it was beſt to pay reſpect to the people, and conform to their religion. In the morning we packed up our baggage, and paid our bills. The two chaiſes brought to the door two mules for Henry and me; a man on foot to bring our two mules back, and another man, with two mules, for our baggage. Each of us wore a ſword or hanger. We never went faſter than a waggon in England, except down hill. The carriages are ſtrong, and heavy laden. The roads are bad in the ſpring.

When my maſter ſaw that the two gentle⯑men had only one chaiſe for them and their black boy, he deſired one of them to come in with him; ſo we ſet off for Palmella through a fine country. One of the Frenchmen gave me his gunpowder, and ſhot, and net, that I might ſhoot at game as I rode along. I put the powder, ſhot, and bag, for the game, round [316] my ſhoulder, and the gun in my hand; and was glad of the opportunity, as it is an open country, and the game plenty. I had great luck. I rode on a little before; and I often ſhot the game in the view of the gentlemen. My mule ſtopped in a moment, and neither of the mules were afraid of the report of the gun. What I ſhot in the day, Henry and I dreſſed at night.

We got to Palmella by noon, a fine village. We dined there. After ſtopping long enough to refreſh, we ſet off for St. Ubes, a large town. In the morning we went for Mo⯑lines, and on our way croſſed the river Ca⯑daon. After dinner we went through a fine l [...]vel country, between two ridges of fine high hills, and at night arrived at Alcaar, where we ſtopt. We were obligated to go and buy any thing we wanted. The maid ſupplied us in the kitchen with wood and water, and Henry and I were cooks. In the [317] morning we left Alcaar to go to Gandola. This day we croſſed two branches of the river Cadaon; and the ſame day we bought twenty-four full grown ſweet oranges for three-pence, it being a fine country for fruit and trees. On our right, to the weſt of Gandola, was a large ridge of mountains, covered with trees, and the country well cul⯑tivated. After dinner, we paſſed through Villa, and through Terreir Adaves, both on branches of the river Guadiana, one of the longeſt rivers in all Spain. In the morn⯑ing of this day, one of the French gentlemen aſked Henry to come into the chaiſe with the black boy, and let him ride his mule. Henry went into the chaiſe, and the gen⯑tleman rode along with me. We both con⯑verſed on different things. It was a fine day, and I had plenty of ſport with the gun. At laſt I came to a croſs road, where was the Virgin Mary, and Chriſt in her arms. I put off my hat, lowered it, and put it on [318] again, and then croſſed myſelf. He ſaid, Don't you belong to the Church of England? Yes, Sir. I thought you never paid any reſpect, in your worſhip, to the holy Virgin. In our worſhip we do not, but we eſteem her.

At night we came to a fine large city called Bijah, with fine houſes, and well for⯑tified. Here we had very good inns. The gentlemen had a bed, and ſo had Henry and I; but Sir John lay in his own bed. We had fiſh, partridges, and chickens, with vege⯑tables; and we had fine wine, and every thing agreeable. Oppoſite to the inn was a ball of the middling ſort of the young peo⯑ple in town. After my maſter was gone to bed, Henry and I went over, and we were let in. We ſat and ſaw them dance country dances, and dance in the Portugueſe manner, which was very entertaining. I paid a quar⯑ter dollar for Henry and me, and came away. [319] They were very civil to us; but there was nothing at the ball to drink. When the young gentlemen handed the girls to their chairs, after the dance was done, they took their ſnuff-box out of their pocket, and gave their partner a pinch of ſnuff. We came home, and had ſome wine to drink, and left them to take ſnuff.

In the morning early we ſet off for Mor⯑tola, on the confines of Portugal. This day we paſſed through the moſt beautiful country for hills, woods, and waters. We croſſed ſeveral branches of the river Gua⯑diana. We paſſed through Alviſtil, a fine town, Maſſejena, another fine large town, and dined at Alcarina. After dinner we paſſed through ſome villages, and paſſed by ſome convents; and, in the evening, ar⯑rived at Mortola. This town ſtands very high on the banks of the river Guadiana, ſurrounded by a great number of very high [320] hills, of bare rocks, more barren and wild than ever I ſaw in the Highlands of Scot⯑land. We put up at the only inn in town, a very good one. The maſter and miſtreſs were very good people; we had plenty of every thing. I made the Queen of Scot's ſoup; and the miſtreſs and I drank a bottle of wine together. There was ſomething ſingular in the man that walked along with us to bring back the two ſaddle mules. He was one of the moſt obliging and conde⯑ſcending men I ever ſaw. You could not ſpeak to him but off went his hat. He was always along-ſide my mule. When I gave him a penny to get a pint of wine, he was as happy as a prince.

Here we diſcharged our chaiſes and mules, becauſe we were to go by water. We were very good cuſtomers to the houſe. Beſides what we had in the houſe, we had provi⯑ſions from them to ſerve us on the water.

[321] Next day, after breakfaſt, we all went into a boat to go down the river for Ago⯑menta, in Spain. We ſailed ten miles on the river in Portugal, and twenty between Portugal and Spain; Portugal on our right hand, and Spain on our left. Sometimes we went aſhore in Spain; at other times in Por⯑tugal, at the villages. In the evening we came to Caſtromarin, a fine new village. Here we remained till Sir John ſhewed the Go⯑vernor of Javira his paſſport, and got another to go out of Portugal. I muſt ſay of the country people, they are civil, innocent, and harmleſs; though it is ſaid, a man's life is in danger, in Liſbon, if he be late out at night. That may be becauſe the deſperate, in all countries, flock to the capital.

The Portugueſe, at a diſtance from Liſ⯑bon, are as much afraid of the Liſbonites as any other ſtrangers. My maſter was not ready till the afternoon of the next day. [322] Then we croſſed the river, and went into the city of Agamonte in Spain. We left the two French gentlemen behind at Caſtro⯑morin; the river, at this part, is three miles broad. Sir John was ſhewn to the beſt inns in town. We had good wine and a good ſupper, made ready by the landlady, a widow, a good ſort of a woman. When the cloth was laid, they put three covers on the table. But, when I put down the ſup⯑per, I took off all the plates but one, and I waited on my maſter; and, when he was done, Henry and I ſupped, very comfort⯑ably, in the ſame room; for it was both parlour and kitchen,

When we croſſed the river from Portugal to the city of Agamonte we entered into the province of Andaluſia, formerly a kingdom. In the morning, the gentleman that my maſter was recommended to ſent for a man, and hired five mules to carry us and the bag⯑gage. [323] The gentleman, Mr. Lepo, lent Sir John an Engliſh ſaddle to be returned with the mules. Henry and I rode above the baggage. When all was ready, we rode through the fine city of Agamonte. As we were riding along the ſtreet, a fine wo⯑man came to look out of a window; but, ſeeing us, ſhe in a moment diſappeared, for fear that any one ſhould ſee her looking after ſtrangers. Agamonte is a fine city for trade, being near the ſea, on the banks of the ri⯑ver, in a fine cultivated country. We went to Taron to dinner; and, at night, to Lepe, through a beautiful level country. All this day's journey was near the ſea. Taron and Lepe are fine large towns; but no women to be ſeen. The Spaniards, like the Por⯑tugueſe, are kind and civil; and have not the leaſt idea of overcharging, like the French. Next day we dined at Cortay, and after⯑wards croſſed the river Sally; and, in the afternoon, croſſed the river Odier to Gibral⯑con, [324] a large town, where we had good ac⯑commodations. When the two Spaniards went to buy corn for the mules, I went along with them. There was a woman of the town who wanted me to paſs the night with her. I promiſed, but I did not perform. But Henry went in place of me. We were very happy here the whole evening. Sir John and I, and the man belonging to the mules, ſlept in one room; and in the cloſet, that had no door, ſlept the maſter and miſ⯑treſs, and the daughter, a pretty girl, about fifteen. I got up in the night to make water; but, finding no pot, I went to the daugh⯑ter's bed-ſide, and took her pot. I put it beſide Sir John's camp-bed; and, juſt before day light, I put it back again; and then I lay down. About ſix o'clock Henry called us. I made ſome fine chocolate for Sir John; and, after breakfaſt, we ſet out for St. Juan, a long ſtage of eighteen miles. We ſtopped at a houſe on the road, ſix [325] miles from Gibralcon, to give the mules hay and water; and we ate ſome hard-boiled eggs, bread and wine, which we always had with us. Soon after, when we were on the road, it began to rain, and continued inceſ⯑ſantly the whole day. We had not a place to ſtop at till we came to St. Juan. I was obliged to take part of the oil-cloth that covered the baggage to hang on Sir John's, on the ſide next the ſtorm. We had ſeveral wine-merchants on the road with us.

When we arrived, we were put into a houſe quite empty. The ſtable was part of the houſe; and the maſter of the houſe lived next door. His name was Phillips. He kept a ſhop like a grocer's, or chandler's ſhop in London. He ſent us wood for fire, or what⯑ever we wanted. We were there three nights on account of the rain having ſwelled the rivers ſo high that we could not paſs; there was no bridge nor ferry-boat. Phillips ſent [326] whatever we wanted; and was a good hearty rich fellow. The third night I was there, he dreſſed me in a Spaniſh dreſs, and took me out with him to ſome of his friend's houſes, and to a public houſe, where we ſtopped ſome time.

Next day we were informed the rivers were fallen. We ſet off for Lucar; and, in the way, we croſſed the rivers Tinto and Moncanilla. Lucar is a large city, remark⯑able for fine churches, which we went to ſee. It is ſurrounded by promenades. At this time there was ſtationed at this place a regiment of horſe and foot. The officers and ladies were walking together; but the ladies were all veiled. Here Sir John choſe to ſtop all night. Next day we went acroſs the plains of Almonte; and, at the city of Almonte, we dined. In croſſing the plains we ſaw a drove of two thouſand hogs, moſtly blacks, g [...]t from different places of the country for [327] the great city of Seville. The Spaniards are fonder of hogs-fleſh than even the Engliſh. At night we went to a village called Atalia, near the ſea. Here the kitchen and ſtable were both in one. The mules were at one end, and all the ſtrangers at the other. Every one was his own cook; and I dreſſed the Queen of Scot's ſoup. As for the two French gentlemen, we left them in Aga⯑monte. After it was dark, at Atalia, the doors were ſhut, and we were deſired not to go out for fear of thieves that lurked in the neighbourhood. Next day we travelled along the ſea-ſhore to Nepuero, a little vil⯑lage at the bottom of the great river of Gua⯑dalquivir. As we had not more than ſixteen miles to go that day, we were in no great haſte. Sir John and I walked about ſix miles on the ſands, picking up ſhells of a very fine kind; which were brought to London.

[328] As we were coming to Nepuero, we ſaw a ſhip in diſtreſs, though it was a very fine day. The ſhip was no more than a mile from us, and a lee-ſhore. They did all in their power to get to ſea from land, but all in vain. She was loaded with fiſh from Newfound⯑land, and was ſplit on a rock near the bot⯑tom of the river. Next day we dined at Nepuero, and diſcharged our men and mules. We had a boat, and croſſed the river oppo⯑ſite the cuſtom-houſe, where the river is two miles over. Our baggage was taken into the cuſtom-houſe and cleared, and afterwards we had a cart to put it in. We had to walk two miles to the city of St. Lucar to the inns, where we had good accommodations and bet⯑ter beds than we had ſince we left Liſbon. We ſtopped at St. Lucar a week. Sir John ſtopped with his two friends, Mr. Hunter and Mr. Carr, wine-merchants. The but⯑ler came from Edinburgh; he and I went next morning to ſee the veſſel that was broke [329] to pieces, and we ſaw the tide drive the fiſh on ſhore. The people of St. Lucar had a fine chance to get ſo many thouſand fine cod for nothing.

When the gentlemen went out to ride, Mr. Hamilton, the butler, and I, went out with the two grey-hounds a courſing, and we had very good ſport. St. Lucar is a very fine city for trade. It ſtands near the ſea, on one of the fineſt rivers in the world. On the other ſide are a great many hills, and a fortification about a mile from town. We went into the fort, and there we found Engliſh, Iriſh, Scotch, and Welſh ſoldiers in the King of Spain's ſervice, and fine eaſy lives they had, never to ſtir from St. Lucar and the fort. The houſe where Sir John lodged at St. Lucar, was one of the largeſt wine-houſes in the town. I went into the wine ſtore⯑cellars, which reſemble a brewer's great ſtore⯑cellar in London. The morning we left St. [330] Lucar, we ſent our baggage away in a cart by four in the morning; and we ſet off by ſix in the morning. We rode fifteen miles acroſs a fine country, abounding in vine⯑yards and figs. The baggage and we arrived at Port St. Mary's by eleven o'clock, at the Three Pigeon's Hotel, in a very fine town, with a fine promenade at the end of Port St. Mary's for gentlemen and ladies. We dined at the Hotel, and as we had but nine miles to Cadiz acroſs the ſea, Sir John was very deſirous to be there that day, although the wind was very high. I told Sir John that the wind was very high to go in an open boat. He ſaid the boatmen knew beſt. As all the boats were gone that took the regular fare, (of about eight-pence each perſon) my ma⯑ſter engaged one for about eight dollars. When we were making ready to go to the boat, Bernardo, the landlord, an Italian, ſaid, Mr. John, the wind is high, but the men ven⯑tured on account of getting ſo much money. [331] So we went into the large open boat, with one maſt and one large ſail. The maſter and eight of his men, Sir John, three Spaniſh Gentlemen, and Henry and I were on board. We had not proceeded a mile when the wind became very high. In ten minutes it blew a tempeſt; the men being freſh water ſailors, had the ſail too high, which laid the boat very much on one ſide. A ſea came and fil⯑led the boat half full of water. When I ſaw that, I made a motion to lower the ſail, which they did half way down: if not, the next ſea would have ſwallowed us up. By this time Sir John thought all was over in this life for us, and Henry ſat at my feet trembling and ſpeechleſs. The men had two pails and went to work, to throw the water out of the boat. A wave took away one pail, and in a few mi⯑nutes the other pail was carried away alſo; then more water came in; every one in the boat expected every moment to be loſt. The boatmen were crying for their wives and fami⯑lies. [332] I ſat on the windward ſide of the boat, with my arms on the rigging, encouraging Sir John, as he had not ſeen ſo much diſtreſs as I had ſeen. The gentlemen were all on the little deck behind, with the baggage beſide me. Sir John called loudly to the people on board an Engliſh man of war to the wind⯑ward of us, but they could give us no aſſiſt⯑ance. I gave myſelf up for loſt, but I thought within myſelf, I ſhall fare as my maſter, and no worſe. I never ſaw ſuch a ſcene. The men in water up to their middles, crying, and throwing out the water with their hats, and we as wet as them. I ſaw no alteration on the Spaniſh gentlemen: but they were ſpeaking about Sir John and me being Engliſh, and thought that God had raiſed the ſtorm on our account. One of the gentlemen aſked if we were Engliſh; I anſwered we were, and then he aſked me if we were Catholics of Eng⯑land. When we were at our wits end, it pleaſed God to calm the wind a great deal. [333] At laſt we got near the harbour, and I ſpoke to Henry, but he could not anſwer me a word. Sir John ſaid, he had not got the better of the fright yet. When we got near the Pier of Cadiz, we had great difficulty to get on ſhore, as the waves daſhed ſo much againſt the Pier. We got into the little boat from the great one, to take us on ſhore, and by the aſſiſtance of the rope, we got up out of the boat. There were many hundreds of people glad to ſee us come ſafe off the water. Sir John paid the people his com⯑pliments, by lifting off his hat, and making a bow. We went to the White Horſe Hotel all night. At night Sir John ſent a letter to his friend, Mr. Duff, a great merchant at Cadiz. Mr. Duff came home late. In the morning he came to ſee Sir John, and invited him to be at his houſe while in Cadiz. We went to the houſe of Mr. Duff and Welſh, in Com⯑pany, and next day my maſter diſcharged Henry, as he met with an opportunity to go [334] with a gentlemen for Liſbon. Next day, as I was dreſſing Sir John Stuart, he ſaid, John, I think we eſcaped wonderfully well with our lives coming from Port St. Mary's. Yes, thank God, I do aſſure you, Sir John, though I did not ſhew the leaſt marks of fear, I expected every moment to be loſt. I thought within myſelf, I have eſcaped many dangers, and if I am to die here, I ſhall fare no worſe than my maſter in death and burying.

Mr. Duff was ſon to the Sheriff of Air in Scotland, and nephew to Mr. Hamilton of Bargeny, who brought me up. Mr. Hamilton had a brother at the ſame time in great trade, William Dalrymple, Eſq. at Cadiz. In Mr. Duff and Welſh's houſe there were no maid⯑ſervants, it not being the cuſtom for the ſingle men in Cadiz. In the houſe were the butler and his mate, as houſe-man, the head cook and his mate, two Frenchmen and two Italians. I cleaned my maſter's room and [335] my own, and made our beds, and we were as happy as kings together. There is not ſo much demand for women ſervants in Spain, as there are no fine places; only in the kitchen, and, as in Scotland, the cooks are moſtly all men.

Cadiz is as pleaſant as any city in Europe; it ſtands on a peninſula, moſtly encompaſſed by the ſea, and fortified all round. The gentlemen and ladies moſtly walk on the ramparts for the proſpect, and there are ſeats. There is alſo a fine promenade under trees, and thoſe that are in carriages go round the promenade, ſo they can all ſee one another every afternoon. There are many fine churches in Cadiz. There is a very good cuſtom in Spain.—Every evening when the ſun ſets the bell tolls in all the churches, the men and women ſtop in a moment, of whatever ſta⯑tion, on the promenade or ſtreet, while the prieſts in church ſay the Lord's Prayer. The [336] men lift off their hats, the ladies put their fans before their face, to pray that God would preſerve them through night, as he had done through the day, and to thank God for their daily bread. When the oration is done in church, the bell tolls again; then the gentlemen bow to the ladies, and they all walk on again. All carriages and horſemen ſtopped in the ſame manner. The prieſts go about the ſtreets about nine o'clock at night, with lanterns that give a great light, and ſtop at particular places to pray and praiſe, to caution people from doing wickedneſs in the night, and tell them the folly of wicked⯑neſs, and ſufferings that follow. The ſtreets are very good in Cadiz, and the houſes are high, and make a noble appearance; they are white, built of ſtone and lime; they are the moſt convenient in the world for ſervants. When you enter in the ſtreet-door, you are in a ſquare, paved with marble; it is open to the heavens. Round the hall are cellars and [337] warehouſes, the ſtairs are at one corner. When you get up to the firſt floor, all round are rooms and counting-houſes. There is an iron railing round the gallery: the ſecond, third, and fourth is in the ſame manner; ſo the houſe is always open. There is a rope fixed to the latch of the ſtreet-door from the iron railing on each floor, oppoſite the ſtreet-door; ſo that whatever place of the houſe a ſervant is in, he comes out of the room and looks over the railing, pulls the latch of the ſtreet-door with the cord; the perſon comes in and walks up ſtairs, then the door falls to again. If it is a meſſage, the ſervant takes, or gives it. When you get on the top of the houſe, it is flat and pleaſant to walk on, or drink tea in the evening. The top of it is fine⯑ly ornamented with cut-ſtone. Where you walk, it is paved with fine flat tiles. In Ca⯑diz there is no water but rain collected from the houſe tops; there is indeed water brought from Port St. Mary's acroſs the ſea, for gen⯑tlemen [338] and ladies. Many men ſupport their families by this trade. In the afternoon the men carry a large caſk upon their backs, two glaſſes, and a clean napkin in their hand. They go up to gentlemen and ladies, and ſell the company this water. It is pleaſing to ſee ſo many fine gentlemen and ladies walk on the ramparts, and on the promenade, from whence they have ſo extenſive a view, both by ſea and land. Cadiz is ſo compact, that a man may walk round it in an hour.

All the ladies in the ſouth of Spain, when they walk out, are veiled. As we came to Cadiz before Lent, I faſted the whole time as they did; but our faſt would have been a feaſt to a Londoner; for we had fine bread and wine, tea and fine butter; and at dinner ſalt fiſh, potatoes, parſ⯑nips; plenty of ſauce, fiſh ſtewed in wine, freſh fiſh boiled, and other fiſh broiled; eggs fried, and eggs and ſpinage every day; the [339] gentlemen in the parlour had what they liked beſides; for the family was large.

Sir John had not been at Cadiz above three weeks when he was taken ill with an inter⯑mitting fever. Mr. Macguire, the phyſician of Cadiz, an Iriſh gentleman, attended him. Sir John had no nurſe but myſelf who attended him. I never pulled off my cloaths for ſix⯑teen nights. I had a fire burning all night, and a lamp to warm every thing he wanted. I laid on the couch in the next room. At laſt he became ſo weak that he could hardly call me. I ſaid, Sir, if you pleaſe, I will put a thing round my wriſt in the night, and when you want me, pull the cord, and I will wake in a moment; but Sir John rather choſe I ſhould lie on the mattraſs by his bed-ſide; and I did as he deſired me. Before three weeks his fever changed and turned to an ague and fever; then he was well ſome times, and then he could walk out, and ride in a [340] carriage. At this time there was a yearly proceſſion, and as it paſſed by Mr. Duff's houſe, it was very entertaining to my maſter. It began on Monday and ended on Saturday. It begins with Judas betraying our Lord, and through the week taking Chriſt before Pi⯑late, and his trial and ſcourging, and carry⯑ing his croſs, and Simon the Cyrenean aſſiſt⯑ing our Lord to carry the croſs, and his be⯑ilng on the croſs between the two thieves, and then left alone, except the Virgin Mary, her ſiſter, and the wife of Cleophas, Mary Magdalen, and John the beloved. On Sa⯑turday Judas throws down the money, and then hangs himſelf. Thoſe ſcenes are on ſtages drawn on wheels. The proceſſion is every day after breakfaſt performed by ſeve⯑ral hundreds of the gentlemen in town dreſſed with their ſwords, and each having a lighted torch in his hand, and accompanied by the prieſts in grand order.

[341] Sir John getting a little better, Dr. Macguire recommended him to the air of Port St. Mary's, where he went, and put up at Bernardo's, the Three Pigeon's Hotel, where we were before. My maſter had a room at the end of the great dining hall, with two beds; at the other end was General O'Reiley, the commander in chief of the army in the ſouth part of Spain. The General was an Iriſhman, and had a grand attendance, though not one Britiſh or Iriſh ſervant about him. Several of the gentlemen came to ſee Sir John; and one Mr. Walmſley, an Engliſh gentleman, who had a fine houſe and gardens in the country, two miles from Port St. Mary's, invited Sir John to come and drink milk in the morning, or whatever he liked. My maſter got a large jack-aſs that belonged to the Hotel. He put an Engliſh ſaddle on the aſs and rode him. We ſet out at ſix in the morning. I put my coat over my left ſhoulder becauſe the weather was hot. I [342] walked, and the aſs followed me. This laſted ten days, during which time we re⯑turned every day to breakfaſt. Mr. Duff ſent his own mule round by land to Port St. Mary's, then I rode the aſs, and we viſited every afternoon different places of the coun⯑try. No king in the world could enjoy more pleaſure than we did, by going from place to place. After General O'Reiley left the Hotel, the Biſhop of Seville came to the apartments and dined, on his way to Cadiz.

After three weeks at Port St. Mary's, Sir John returned to Cadiz a great deal better, only the ague and fever every three days, and he continued to take the bark. At our return to Cadiz the bull fights began, the manner of which is as follows:—The theatre is large and round, open over head, the ſeats riſe from the middle of a graſs plat, like the ſeats in the two ſhillings gallery of a play-houſe; [343] a poſt is fixed towards one end of the plat, and a baboon chained to it. Before the company came, ten bulls are brought to a ſtable under the gallery. When the company are come, and the Governor and his family ſeated, a bell rings; the large monkey is on the poſt, three men on horſe-back, with good boots on, with a large ſpur in their right hand, ſtand cloſe together a-breaſt: one bull is turn⯑ed out, he ſtamps on the ground, looks at the company, the monkey and three men on horſe-back, and the three men are ready to receive him. The bull runs full drive at one of the horſes; the rider is ſure to pierce the bull's ſhoulder with his ſpear. He alone muſt attack the bull, and muſt engage him in front. Sometimes the bull throws the man and horſe on the ground, at other times he rips up the horſe's belly, and you will then ſee the horſe's guts trailing on the ground. When the bull gives the horſe the firſt thruſt, a perſon is ready, in a light dreſs, [344] with a piece of ſilk of the length of a mid⯑ling table-cloath; the bull toſſes the ſilk with his horns, and the rider eſcapes to a place for the purpoſe. The ſecond time the horſe⯑men get themſelves ready again, and the bull having received the wounds, is more mad than before. Sometimes he runs at the monkey, and then there is a general laugh. When ſix minutes are over, a bell rings for that ſcene to finiſh; then the horſemen ſtand to one ſide, and another player turns out with two arrows in his hands, each about a yard long, the point ſharp, like the point of a ſmall fiſhing hook. He meets the bull in full gallop, runs the arrow through between his horns, in his ſhoulders, or neck; the bull takes one round in the Circus, then another man turns out. The monkey guards his chain, and obſerves the whole performance. The bull engages the ſecond, third, &c. till he has eight or ten arrows dangling in his back and ſhoulders; then he is wound up to [345] a great pitch of madneſs. When the ſix minutes are over, the bell rings, and thoſe men withdraw; then one of the head per⯑formers turns out with an Andrea Ferara in his hand, and meets the bull when he is on full gallop. He directs the ſword between the horns, down through his ſhoulders into his heart. The bull falls and expires. In a minute a young man comes with three horſes a-breaſt of one another, harneſſed and fine⯑ly decorated with feathers. He fixes the harneſs round the horns, and drags the car⯑caſe full gallop to the ſlaughter-houſe. The meat is ſold next day for two-pence per pound to the publick. Often the ſwordſmen miſs their thruſt, and ſometimes the bull carries away the ſword in his ſhoulders. At other times, when the ſwordſman thinks himſelf ſure, he makes a bow to ſome lady, and ſays, In honour of ſuch a lady, I will kill the bull at one thruſt. If he ſucceeds, the company throw down a [346] great deal of money to him; but if not, he is hiſſed out of the Circus.

After being at Cadiz for ſome time, and Sir John not getting quit of his ague, he laid aſide his intended trip to Africa. He re⯑ſolved to accompany ſome gentlemen home. He was at a loſs at firſt whether he ſhould go by ſea or land, but afterwards preferred the latter. Mr. Duff applied to General O'Reiley for an Iriſh or Scotch ſoldier to go behind the coach, and be guard and inter⯑preter. Before we got away, we felt an earthquake, on the tenth day of May, in the forenoon. Sir John was laid on his bed; the cook and I were employed in the kitchen. The whole city of Cadiz was ſomewhat raiſed and rocked, and ſunk again. The cook called on Jeſus and Mary; and I cried out, Jeſus Chriſt! my maſter will be killed in bed. Every face in Cadiz was as pale as aſhes. In [347] ten minutes the people were praying and praiſing on the ſtreets; however, ſome tubs were overſet.

Two days after, we went to Port St. Mary's, and a great many gentlemen in company, who ſtopped all night with my maſter at Bernardo's. In a few days after, my maſter hired a coach and ſix mules that was going to Madrid. He found there were or⯑ders for every one to join their regiment, as the French were expected to join the Ame⯑ricans; ſo that General O'Reiley would not let Sir John have a ſoldier. So we went without an interpreter or guard. We left the pleaſant place, Port St. Mary's, with our coach and ſix mules, worth ſixty or ſeventy guineas each.

About the middle of May we ſet out for Madrid, three hundred and fifty miles diſ⯑tant. We went very little faſter than a wag⯑gon [348] in England. We only went one ſhort ſtage the firſt night, to Xeres, the principal town for cherry-wine in Spain. Great re⯑ſpect is paid to gold-lace; and I was miſ⯑taken, at the inns, for Sir John. I begged of my maſter to wear ſome of his gold-laced cloaths, which he did all through Spain. The inns were tolerable; and the waiter laid the cloth for Sir John and me. I ſup⯑ped with Sir John, for the firſt time; and ſlept in the ſame room till we came to St. Jean de Luz in France. Next morning early we ſet out for Arcos. We commonly ſet out by four, to travel in the cool of the morning. On the road, when we were let into an empty room, where we were taken no notice of, I was cook; the maid would get me water, and make a fire. I had a caſe of fine wine for my maſter, and ſherry for myſelf; I had ſpices, ſalt, and rice, and a little copper pot, with a ſhelf at top, for the meat. I dreſſed the dinner for next day. [349] I had ſoup in the bottom of the pot, and the fowl at top; the cover came half way down the outſide, ſo that no duſt could get in. At dinner time I had only to warm the dinner. I hung the pot under the perch of the coach, by a rope. I could buy par⯑tridges, fowls, chickens, eggs, and ſome fiſh, which I ſtewed in wine. We com⯑monly had our luncheon on the road; the coachman, and his nephew on the box, would eat their's, and we in the coach our's; we commonly had cold broiled chicken, or ſome partridge. As I dreſſed plenty, Sir John deſired me to give the maſ⯑ter of the coach part, out of the window; ſo we were all at luncheon together, and going ſlow. I made chocolate over night to drink at four in the morning. Sir John never had a return of the ague on the road, which made the journey very pleaſing, and no man upon earth more happy than me, travelling through a fine country where the [350] harveſt was all in by the twentieth of May. At night we flept at the town of Bornos. Nothing remarkable but merriment. Our coachman was a fine handſome man; and he and his nephew were very fond of dancing. A perſon came with the guittar; and he danced with the miſtreſs of the houſe, and another girl. It coſt me many a ſhilling to to pay for muſick, travelling along. Very few days but he and his nephew dined at eve⯑ry ſtage we ſtopped at.

Next morning we dined at Eſpera, after paſſing the mountains of Alhoquina. We left Eſpera and travelled along a fine country, well cultivated, finely wooded, and watered, and at night we came to a fine town called Utera, and then to Marchina. From thence we came at night to a fine city called Exija, leaving the great city of Sevillia on our left hand. Here we croſſed a branch of the ri⯑ver Guadlaquivir and went to Palma to din⯑ner, [351] and we croſſed another branch of the river, and ſtopped at the town of Paſados. We were here early in the evening. The people of the inns were relations of Proſilla, the coachman. Sir John was very glad to ſee Proſilla dance. He always put a rattle on each hand, which kept time to the muſick. As Sir John was very glad to ſee him, he him⯑ſelf danced a fandango. I went to the church every place we came at, and I paſſed for a Ro⯑man Catholick. They aſked me, if my maſter was a Roman Catholick: I ſaid he was. It is Friday; and you are dreſſing a fowl for him? I told them, when my maſter was at St. Lucar he went to ſee the high-prieſt, and deſired to be permitted to eat meat as he was travelling through Spain for his health. The high⯑prieſt gave my maſter an indulgence to eat any ſorts of birds, while in Spain, for which my maſter gave the poor of St. Lucar one hundred dollars, and my maſter has it in his pocket-book. That night I made an Eaſt-India pilaw for my maſter. I had a fine [352] fowl ſtewed with rice and butter, well ſea⯑ſoned. I had hard boiled eggs, and boiled onions to garniſh the diſh. When it was making ready, the landlady was taken ill. I told Sir John. He deſired me to take her a glaſs of brandy. She drank it. When I ſerved in the ſupper, Sir John ſent her a large plate full of the pilaw, and deſired her to eat, as ſhe was a fellow-ſufferer with himſelf, and indeed ſhe eat hearty. I had fiſh for my ſupper. Proſilla and the others in company laughed hearty to themſelves that the landlady was ſick, and ate and drank heartily. If a per⯑ſon be ſick, he is allowed to eat meat at that time, although it is in Lent, or on Friday. We left Paſados in the morning, and dined at the great city of Cordova, on the river Guadalquivir. Before my maſter had din⯑ner, we went to ſee a fine church that had ſeven hundred pillars of marble in the mid⯑dle. After dinner we went to Samoſſa, after croſſing the mountains of Conſtantina cover⯑ed [353] with flowers of different colours. When I ſaw a flower or plant that was ſtrange to me, I took the ſeed and dried it by the ſun, and brought it with me to ſend to Scotland. Next morning we left Samoſſa, and dined at St. Bennet's in the province of New Caſtile. In the afternoon we went over the mountains of Conoviſta, and ſtopped at the town of Gorgortial, a fine town in a beautiful coun⯑try. We ſtopped at a very good inn, and the maid was good tempered. I dreſſed the ſupper, and the maid and I drank a bottle of wine together. When ſhe brought in the ſupper, I was ſetting up my maſter's tent bed. Sir John began to eat his ſupper. The maid ſaid, Why do you begin before your comrade? My maſter ſaid, John, I ſee I can by no means begin till you come, without diſobliging the maid. I put on my coat in a minute and ſat down to ſupper. As I made the chocolate at night, ſhe ſhewed me where ſhe ſlept, that I might call her in the morn⯑ing. [354] When I came to her bedſide, before I called her, I took up her pockets and put in one dollar. Methinks a good-natured perſon ſhould be reſpected and rewarded. I ſaid, My dear, I beg your pardon, but I have called you an hour too ſoon. She ſaid, there is no harm done. Do you lay down till I make the fire and warm the chocolate, and when its ready, I will let you know. We went to dinner to Uenta del Aleada, and at night we ſlept at a large town called Villa Major, at a good inn. That night there was a great deal of rain, thunder, and lightning; but within, very agreeable, and plenty of muſic and dancing; and the landlady was a great while converſing with my maſter. Af⯑ter ſhe was gone, I ſaid, Sir, the gentlemen of Cadiz laughed at me, becauſe I ſaid we had no kind of need of an interpreter. You ſee, Sir John, I was right, there would have been the man's expence, and he would have made them charge you double for every thing on [355] the road. Sir John ſaid, In a few months I could ſpeak Spaniſh as well as French; it is half Latin, and I ſpeak Latin as well as French. When we were going to bed, it thundered very much. Sir John ſaid, I believe there is not any one thing bad but I have met with ſince I left home. Sir, ſaid I, if ſome of the old Scotch women were here, they would ſay, Certainly Sir John has forſaken ſome young lady, that he has ſuch bad luck. I ſaid this, becauſe I was informed he had forſaken one of the fineſt young ladies in Scotland, an heireſs; and took up with another heireſs as good as the other, whom he married after⯑wards. He made me no anſwer, for he knew what I ſaid was right.

Next day we paſſed a fine country, and croſſed a branch of the river Guadiana, and ſtopped at the town of Luciana. After dinner we went over the mountains of Luciana, and ſtopped at the town of Piedrabuena, [356] a fine country, near a large ridge of moun⯑tains. There is no danger of thieves in Spain. As you ſtop in towns or villages, you may leave five hundred pounds worth in your coach all night, without any danger; but the banditti on the mountains, or in large woods, are dan⯑gerous. Next day we dined at Mora. After paſſing the mountains of Mora and Cole, on a Saturday night, we arrived at the large and fine city of Toledo. We were at a good inn, and we had good accommodations. Here we croſſed the river Tagus, that runs paſt Liſbon. We were in no great hurry to go off in the morning, as we had only one ſtage to dinner, and to be there all night; the place where the King of Spain had his court. When Sir John was dreſſed and gone down to breakfaſt, I was ſhaving and dreſſing myſelf, when the maid came to make the bed; and, converſing together, ſhe aſked me to ſhave her. I ſaid, My dear, ſuppoſe it ſhould ſpoil your pretty face. Sir, you ſhave, and your [357] face is not ſpoiled. Very well, my dear, if you will give me a kiſs, I will ſhave you. So ſhe gave me a kiſs, and I ſhaved her; and I told her ſhe was the firſt maid I had ever ſhaved. She was about ſixteen, and I was very ſorry to leave her behind. After break⯑faſt, we ſet out, and arrived at Aranjuez, the moſt beautiful village I ever ſaw. Before we came to Aranjuez, we were going over the moſt barren hill in Spain, and preſently we ſaw before us the moſt pleaſant valley, about ten miles long. At the bottom of the hill is the town, the moſt complete building, of white hewen ſtone, every ſtreet anſwering another, like the walks of a garden; plan⯑ned before a houſe was built. The King's palace is at the ſide of the town, a beautiful building, on the banks of the river Tagus, at the end of a fine white ſtone bridge, acroſs the river, in the King's delightful pleaſure gar⯑den, open for the publick to walk in. We ſtopped at the King's Arms. When our [358] things were taken up ſtairs, I, having nothing to do, walked out. I ſaw the people going to the King's chapel, where the Queen and one of the Princeſſes were in the royal ſeat. As I was very well dreſſed, and had a ſilk bag on my hair, and a fine hanger by my ſide, I entered the chapel. When the ſervice was over, I came home. When Sir John was at dinner, I told him I had been at the chapel. He was attended by two Spaniſh waiters. He was well ſerved, they knowing him to be an Engliſhman, the Engliſh bearing the character of being ſo rich and free. My maſter ſaid, John, I have been count⯑ing how many diſhes they will bring to me. In all, I have had fourteen hot things. When my maſter was ſpeaking to me, the two waiters looked at my maſter and me. I ſaid, Sir, I will go and ſee what I ſhall have below. I went and dined, and told Sir John I had eleven hot things for my dinner.

[359] My maſter ſent a letter to Lord Grantham, the Engliſh Ambaſſador, to let him know ſuch a perſon was at the King's Arms. I went and ſaw the King's gardens, and return⯑ed to tell Sir John the beauty of them. He went to ſee them, and returned, expecting the Earl of Grantham's anſwer: but I went along the road, and walked out ſide of the Queen's gardens, between the river and the great road leading to Madrid. It is near half a mile long, and half a quarter of a mile broad, open to view from the road, by a low wall, and fine iron railing; but the pub⯑lic are not allowed to enter. It produces all ſorts of plants and fine flowers to put into the Queen's apartments, and in different places of the palace; and there are many fine trees growing between the river and garden. The great road by the garden has fine trees on each ſide, like thoſe in St. James's Park, London, where the ladies walk in the after⯑noon. This road is watered twice on each [360] day, at the King's expence. The royal fa⯑mily come here an airing ſometimes, and the nobles and gentry come here in the cool of the afternoon. I have ſeen five hundred carriages at once. At accuſtomed places, they drive along one ſide of the road, and down the other. There are gentlemen and ladies on the footway, between the carriages and the Queen's gardens; ſo they are all together, and not the leaſt duſt to be ſeen, the roads being ſo well watered. One would not wiſh to ſee a finer ſight than the company. I went to the other ſide of the garden, and I ſaw one of the gardeners coming from the building for the gardeners, and enter a back door of the garden. I went and found the door on the latch. I entered and walked along the gravel walk. When I came near, the gardeners, it being Sunday, they were looking at ſome flowers, not at work. They looked at me, and ſeeing me to be a foreigner, and knowing how I came in, they took no far⯑ther [361] notice. I walked round, and ſaw ſome fine walks of trees and flowers. I put ſome flowers in my pocket, and walked out and came home to Sir John, and gave him the flowers from the Queen's gardens. He aſked me how I got in there, I told him I had gone into many places that was not allowed for the public, becauſe I was a ſtranger. He anſwered, You had better take care and not get into trouble by ſo doing. Late at night Sir John had a letter from Lord Grantham, and waited on him next day; dined with his Lordſhip, and went to court. As I never ſaw a place I liked ſo well; at the ſame time I went to ſee the King's ſtables, the horſe⯑guards, and the King's dairy, the fineſt in Europe. The King of Spain ſupplies all the ambaſſadors with butter, milk, and cream, from his dairy, while he is in the country. If there be a place in the world at this time like the garden of Eden, it is Aranjuez. When Sir John came home, he told me what [362] he had ſeen at the court, and how much the Engliſh ambaſſador was reſpected by all the other ambaſſadors. Sir John ſaid, I would like to ſtay here longer, but I have to pay Proſilla the coachman one pound per day while I ſtay here.—After four days at Aran⯑juez, we ſet out for Madrid. We went five miles down the eaſt ſide of the river; then croſſed one of the fineſt bridges I ever ſaw out of the county of Middleſex. When we left the valley, we went up a high hill to the weſt, and left the delightful valley of Aranjuez. We went on for Madrid, twenty⯑one miles; but we ſtopped at Leganes to bait, the cuſtom of Spain. When we were on our way to Madrid, if we met a carriage going to Aranjuez, we were obliged to give way. We croſſed another branch of the ri⯑ver Tagus, and put up at the St. Sebaſtian, an elegant hotel, the maſter of which was an Italian. Next day my maſter hired a coach for himſelf and two Engliſh gentle⯑men. [363] The Earl of Grantham's chaplain accompanied them to ſee the King's palace, the armoury, and his cabinet of curioſities. I went on behind the coach, and ſaw every thing that was worth ſeeing in Madrid. When we were looking out of the palace windows in Madrid, we ſaw the Eſcurial, a palace twenty-one miles north from Ma⯑drid. At the ſame time we ſaw the diſtant mountains covered with ſnow, though it was then the beginning of June. After viewing every thing worth ſeeing, the gentlemen ſtopped at Lord Grantham's town houſe. Sir John deſired me to go home, as I had the key of the room where they were to dine, and get the table ready for dinner. I went, but loſt my way. I was in the greateſt per⯑plexity of mind, as I had the key of all the things, and of the room, and I had forgot the name of the hotel. I walked up one ſtreet and down another; at laſt I remembered the name of the hotel. I went up to a Spaniard [364] and aſked him for the St. Sebaſtian. He anſwered, I do not underſtand you, be⯑cauſe I did not know the name of the ſtreet. I aſked for the hotel, but could not give the ſtreet. At laſt, I went up to a French gen⯑tleman, who put me right preſently, and I got home before Sir John and his company. Next day we ſaw the grand proceſſion, ſuch as we ſaw at Cadiz, but much grander. The ſtreet where the proceſſion went through was covered with canvaſs, fixed to the three pair of ſtairs windows, in caſe of rain; but it happened to be fine weather. Madrid is a fine city, in a beautiful country. Madrid is lighted up with glaſs lamps like London. In Madrid the women wear white veils. After being four nights in Madrid, we ſet out for the Eſcurial. On our way we only ſtopped a few minutes at a watering houſe, and arrived at the Eſcurial by noon; there we had time to ſee the palace and village. About two miles before you come to the [365] Eſcurial, you aſcend, as the palace ſtands on a fine height, the moſt beautiful rural place in the world. The palace is one of the longeſt in Europe, in figure like a gridiron; the handle in a fine garden, and the part of the palace like the gridiron is a fine ſquare where carriages drive, very much reſembling Holy-Rood-Houſe, the royal palace in Scotland. We went to ſee the king's chapel, and the fine painting; one drew my maſter's atten⯑tion, and that was the converſion of Paul. The friars were at prayers when we were in the chapel, and were ſurprized to hear me name all the paintings exactly. Next morn⯑ing we travelled through a country like a garden, till we began to aſcend the high mountains. We were to croſs to get out of the province of New Caſtile, into Old Caſ⯑tile. I got out of the coach to make it eaſier for the mules. I was ſometimes half a mile before the mules, becauſe I went ſtraight forward. I had milk from the ſhep⯑herds [366] out of a large horn; and I met Sir John at a corner of the road. Near the top of the mountains, we entered into a cloud, it was ſo thick and dark. Sir John called me to come into the coach to give him the bark. When we left the mountains behind, we got into a fine country, and arrived at a large town called Idelfonſo in Old Caſtile. Here we ſtopped all night on account of the beau⯑ty of the place. It is ſituated in a fine val⯑ley between the high mountains of Brides. Next morning we went to Segovia, a fine town, with fine houſes. At night we went to St. Maria de la Nieve, in a fine well cul⯑tivated country, with many fine woods, and paſſed by ſome convents. Next day we dined at Olmedo, and arrived at night at Val⯑deſtillas. I took more delight in ſeeing the north part of Spain than the ſouth, becauſe it afforded ſo many hills, valleys, rivers, and woods. Next morning we ſet out for Val⯑ladolid, a great city, but poor buildings, with [367] an old palace of the Kings of Spain, with a cathedral and fine paintings. We ſtopped to dinner, then ſet out for Duenas. This part of Spain is barren, and the people poor, not hav⯑ing trade. Next morning we went to Torque⯑nado, and at night to Villadrigo. Next day to dinner at Quintanillaja, and at night to the large city of Burgos, the capital of Old Caſtile. This city is very rich and grand. It ſtands on the banks of the river Alençon, and here is a fine cathedral, with excellent paintings. Sir John ſtopped here two days, hecauſe he met ſome Engliſh gentlemen. We were there on the market day, which gave us an opportunity of ſeeing more of the humour of the place. The country round is fine and well cultiva⯑ted. We left Burgos and travelled over the very high mountains of Bribieſca, through bad roads. We had dinner at Bodilles, and at night arrived at Bribieſca. Afterwards we had a beautiful country to go through, but bad roads to paſs. As we were going [368] along, I obſerved a houſe like Fullarton's Folly in Scotland. Sir John looked round, and ſaid, I never ſaw a finer ſight; ſuch a fine country, and fine river. Sir, ſaid I, there is a finer ſight in Scotland. He ſaid, Where, for God's ſake? Sir, from the caſtle of Stirling. If young noblemen and gentlemen would take notice of Great Britain and Ireland, before they went on their travels, it would make a good foundation for their remarks.—Next day we dined at Pancorva, and purſued our jour⯑ney through the mountainous country of Mi⯑rando, and through a great many woods. We had a guard with us for one ſtage. All this time we were very happy with our coachman and poſtillion, and we had plenty of muſic and dancing. Although the harveſt was in when we left Cadiz, they were only weeding their fields of green corn in the north of Spain. We dined at Vittoria; whence we ſet out for Mon⯑drogone. On this ſtage we entered the great mountain of the Pyrenees, which runs from the Bay of Biſcay to the Mediterranean ſea, [369] and, upon an average, is fifty miles broad, and covered conſtantly with ſnow. On the ſtage between Mirando and Victoria, we croſſed the river Ebro, and entered the pro⯑vince Biſcay. When we entered firſt be⯑tween two rocks, there was only room for the coach to paſs. We were three days in paſſing the Pyrenees, the road ſerpentined ſo much, to get round the mountains. We ſtopped at Villafranca. Next day we dined at Toloſa. It was very pleaſant travelling through the valleys to ſee the ſnow on the mountains, while the valley was as warm as France or Spain. We travelled by a river the whole day; and there were plenty of trees on the ſide of the mountains. At night we ſtopped at Ogarzin, the pleaſanteſt place I ever ſaw. At this town the valley was very narrow, and mountains very high, the ſides covered with cheſnut trees. In paſſing the Pyrenees, we had the beſt white wine I ever drank. In the morning we left Ogar⯑zin, [370] and went to the river Bidaſſoa, which divides Spain and France. The river is deep, but not very broad. We croſſed over all at once in a ferry-boat, and we had our things taken to the cuſtom-houſe to be ſearched. On the one ſide they ſpoke French, on the other ſide Spaniſh. Here we entered Gaſcony, and dined at St. Jean de Luz.

Sir John and I began to ſeparate dining or ſleeping in one room together; and here I left my kitchen furniture behind, not having any more occaſion for them at night. We ſtopped at Bayonet, a large trading city on the great river Adour. I was ſurpriſed to ſee the people in Gaſcony: I thought I was in Scotland, for the people dreſs in the ſame manner, with ſhort coats and blue bonnets, and there is not the leaſt difference in their behaviour. As Proſilla, the coachmaſter, had fulfilled his engagements for his coach and mules, he was paid off. I was ſorry to part [371] with him and his nephew; and he was ſorry to part with Sir John and me. Next day Sir John bought a French poſt-chaiſe, and they both ſaw us ſet off poſt for Bourdeaux. We dined at a large town called Deux on the ri⯑ver Adour, and at night arrived at Leſperon. This country had a great many woods and bad roads. Next day to St. Julian, next day to Eſcourſe, and ſlept at Caſtreſs; next day to Bourdeaux, and put up at the Hotel de Richelieu, near the grand promenade, and the new play-houſe. As there were a great many Britiſh and Iriſh gentlemen here, Sir John ſaid, he would ſtop. He ordered a chariot with a coachman and footman, and jaunted through the city of Bourdeaux, one of the fineſt places in France, for beauty and for trade. It is a great reſort for company; it is above two miles long, on the river Garonne, on which you will ſee ſhips of all countries. Moſt of the country is vineyards, as it is the country where claret is made. After we had [372] been there one week, the miſtreſs of the hotel, her brother, a maſter ſhoe-maker, and an Engliſh houſe-keeper, a French valet, and I, made a party on a Sunday to go to the miſ⯑treſs's brother, three miles down the river, on the other ſide, at Madam Reives's bro⯑ther's houſe. As ſoon as we were in the boat Madam Reives took a pack of cards out of her pocket to play. She deſired me for her partner, I made many excuſes againſt it, but all would not do, as ſhe had ſeen me play before. I apologized, and in all my life I had never done ſo before, nor never had done any thing on a Sunday that gave me ſo much uneaſineſs before; for I always re⯑garded the Sunday; but they were all Ro⯑man Catholics; dancing or gambling on Sunday, they think no harm. When we came to Madam Reives's brother's, we walk⯑ed in the vineyards, on the banks of the ri⯑ver. We ate grapes, drank wine, had fiſh of the river ſtewed in wine, and in the even⯑ing [373] we returned by water at ſunſet. At this time, the Emperor of Germany was making the tour of France, accompanied by the Count of Provence, the King of France's brother, and many other noblemen. The day they arrived at Bourdeaux, two of the noblemen came to our hotel. Three days after, I was at the gate of the hotel at nine in the morn⯑ing, when I ſaw the Emperor and all his at⯑tendants going to maſs. I went directly without putting on my hat, and got into church. Thouſands of people flocked in the ſtreets to ſee the Emperor. He did not ſtop long at maſs. As he was coming out of church, he ſpoke to the Count de Provence, as he thought he would be obſtructed getting out, the people thronged ſo much about the church. The Emperor went out with one of his lords, and as the people knew neither of them, both of them went into the noble⯑man's chariot, and drove off. Soon after the Earl of Provence and the other lords came [374] out and drove away. The Emperor's car⯑riage drove away empty. The people aſked the coachman who was the Emperor. He ſaid that he went away in the firſt carriage, ſo they were diſappointed. I got out of the crowd, came home, and called my maſter at ten o'clock, and I told him I had been at maſs with the Emperor and the Count de Provence, and what I had ſeen. He ſaid, I wiſh I had been there to ſee the Emperor, and the Earl of Provence. After we were two weeks at Bourdeaux, Sir John made a party to go to go to Bagneres, at the bottom of the Pyrenees. The party was my maſter, Edward Coke, Eſq. Captain Fagan, in the French ſervice, belonging to a regiment of horſe, and of the order of St. Louis; Cap⯑tain Woolley, an Iriſh gentleman, and Mr. Hooper, an American gentleman. In the middle of July we left Bourdeaux, and dined at Coſtreſs, and went at night to Langon, a fine town, in a fine country. Next to Marmonde, [375] then to Tormaine, Aquillion, and Agen, poſt towns, and at night to Leirace. Next morn⯑ing we went to Leytaure, changed horſes, then to Auch, and then at night to Tarble. This town is a fine large market town, in a fine country, ſurrounded with vineyards, on a branch of the river Adour. Next day we arrived at Bagneres. The gentlemen went to houſe-keeping; they had the Mayor's houſe, they had a man cook, kitchen maid; and as the Mayor lived in the houſe, his maid cleaned the rooms, and took care of her ma⯑ſter's things. As Mr. Coke's ſervant and I were Britiſh, we did the work one week, and the French ſervants another. Bagneres is like the German Spa, for company from all places. They drink the water, ride out, ſome on horſeback, others in carriages meet to play cards, have balls, and there are fine walks round the town. It is a ſweet place, for the waters of the river run through every houſe in town; ſo all filth is carried away. This [376] place lies one hundred miles eaſt of Bayſmet, at the bottom of the Pyrenees. The town is very hot, though when looking out of your windows you can ſee the ſnow on the top of the mountains. Sometimes the company dined in the wood, or in a grove. When they came to the place, ſome walked about, others played cards till dinner time, every one ſpeaking the French language.

On the firſt of Auguſt, when Sir John was of age, he gave a dinner to the gentlemen and ladies at Bagnone, near fifty people up the valley, between the Pyrenees, at a village cal⯑led Compa. On both ſides, ſome of the moun⯑tains, like ſugar loaves, were two or three miles high, covered with ſnow, and below as hot as you can bear it. The dinner was fine and plenty of fine wines and card-playing; but, unluckily for Sir John, after dinner, when he went into the neceſſary houſe, he left his repeating watch behind him, a new gold [377] one of the firſt ſort. The watch and chain, &c. was valued at one hundred guineas. En⯑quiry was made, but all to no purpoſe. A reward was offered to any perſon that would deliver it, but all in vain. Our gentlemen ſtopped here till the end of Auguſt, and then went to Barege, about fifteen miles further up amongſt the Pyrenees. Bagnere is only on the ſide of the mountain. Barege is as much frequented as Bengeree is, like Bath and Briſtol. The gentlemen left Barege after dinner, and were all night at Purreſelt, near leaving the mountains. Next day we dined at Louredes, a beautiful town amongſt vine⯑yards. We cut the grapes off with our hangers as we were riding along; and late at night we came to Tarbe, a fine large market town. Next day was a great fair. The gen⯑tlemen ſtopped here one day, as Mr. Hooper and Captain Woolley were to part with my maſter, and Mr. Coke, and Captain Fagan. Next day after we went for Bourdeaux, and [378] in two days arrived there. Sir John ſtopped one week at Bourdeaux, and ſet out for Paris. We croſſed the great river Garonne at Bour⯑deaux, in a boat, and at the next ſtage Cub⯑ſac, we croſſed another branch of the river in a ferry-boat, and went poſt to Molieu, then Barbeſcieux, through a fine wine country, after to Angouleme, then to Moli all night. In the morning we croſſed the river Cha⯑rente in a ferry-boat; as the road was good, and very good horſes, we went on very quick. We went to Ruffee, to Viome, and to Poictiers; and at night we croſſed a branch of the ri⯑ver Loire, and ſlept all night at the fine large town of Chatellrault, whence the Duke of Hamilton has his French dukedom. At this time there was a great many com⯑pany in town, and at our hotel, where we put up, and of courſe I was at ſupper with a great many ſervants. The cuſtom of the hotel was, the ſervants that came laſt ſat loweſt at table. When ſupper was over, I [379] took off my hat and put it before my face, and ſaid grace, then croſſed myſelf and put my hat on again; took up the bread and kiſſed it, and then put it on the table. All the ſervants looked at me, and they took off their hats out of complaiſance to me, and put them on again; for the French ſervants are very reſpectful to any thing religious. They aſked me if my maſter was a Biſhop. I ſaid no, he was a gentleman on his travels. They ſaid, from what country, pray Sir? From Scotland, gentlemen. My maſter is Sir John Stuart. His family is ſprung from the kings of Scotland; by this they thought Sir John and I muſt be very religious; for they ſpoke of King Charles the Firſt loſing his life for religion.

We ſet off next morning for St. Maure. On this ſtage we croſſed another branch of the river Loire. From St. Maure we croſſed three branches of the Loire, next to Veue, [380] then we went and dined at the city of Blair. After dinner to Bengeney, through a pleaſant country, and at night to Orleans city, a fine large and beautiful place, on the river Loire. Next morning early, we left the city of Or⯑leans and the river Loire behind us. Nothing remarkable happened, but we were paſſing through a fine country, with good entertain⯑ment. Our next poſt was Arteny, then to Etampes, then to dinner at Arpajon, and at night to Paris, and put up at the Hotel de Saxe Rue Fauxbourg St. Germaine. Next day Sir John had a large coachman and foot⯑man to viſit his friends. He found a great many young gentlemen of his acquaintance, which induced him to ſtay longer than he intended. We arrived in Paris about the end of September, and we ſtopped eight weeks at the Hotel de Saxe. He went to all public places, and he kept the firſt company in Pa⯑ris; and we ſervants lived like princes. We left Paris on St. Andrew's-day, a day that [381] is kept more holy in France than Sunday. We went poſt by Chantillie, Amiens, Affeville, and in two days arrived at Boulogne, at my maſter's uncle's houſe, Mr. Seton was one of the firſt men in the wine trade in the univerſe. Sir John ſtopped here three weeks. Boulogne is a pleaſant town on the ſea ſide, within two ſtages of Calais, and in ſight of England, on the great poſt road from Calais to Paris. We went by ſea from Boulogne to Dover. Sir John left his French poſt-chaiſe at Boulogne, and we arrived in London the firſt day of January, 1778, at Mrs. Elliot's houſe in Brewer-ſtreet, Golden-ſquare. Sir John was in perfect health; he ſtopped in London one week; and as he was deſirous of ſeeing his relations in Scotland, and having no further occaſion for me, he paid me off. He deſired me to ſend his baggage by ſea, and he went with a gentleman in a poſt-chaiſe to Allen⯑bank, in Berwickſhire, in Scotland: ſo we parted, and I was out of place. I took things [382] very eaſy, as it was a good time of the year to get one. I went after none but a place with a ſingle man, as I wanted for nothing. I had my own lodging, with my own fur⯑niture, and whether I was at home or abroad, I paid my good old landlady, a wi⯑dow woman; and ſhe made of it what ſhe could in my abſence; therefore ſhe took care of my goods. I dreſſed in the ſame manner I went abroad. Having good cloaths, with rich veſts, I wore my hanger, a ſilk bag at my hair, and laced ruffles; but when I went after a place, I dreſſed in the common way. If it rained, I wore my fine ſilk umbrella, then the people would call after me, What, Frenchman, why do not you get a coach? In particular the hackney coachmen and hackney chairmen would call after me; but I, knowing the men well, went ſtraight on, and took no notice. At this time there were no umbrellas worn in London, except in noble⯑men and gentlemen's houſes; where, there [383] was a large one hung in the hall, to hold over a lady or gentleman if it rained, be⯑tween the door and their carriage. I was going to dine in Norfolk-ſtreet, one Sunday. It rained, my ſiſter had hold of my arm, and I had the umbrella over our heads. In Tavi⯑ſtock-ſtreet, we met ſo many young men, calling after us Frenchman! take care of your umbrella. Frenchman, why do not you get a coach, Monſieur? My ſiſter was ſo much aſhamed, that ſhe quitted my arm, and ran on before, but I ſtill took no notice but an⯑ſwered in French or Spaniſh that I did not underſtand what they ſaid. I went on ſo for three months, till they took no further no⯑tice of me, only, How do you do Frenchman? After this, the foreigners ſeeing me with my umbrella, one after another uſed theirs, then the Engliſh. Now it is become a great trade in London, and a very uſeful branch of buſi⯑neſs. When I went to a public houſe where ſervants meet in the evenings. I was called [384] by the name of Beau Macdonald, or the Scotch Frenchman. I went ſometimes to the Seven Stars, Eagle-ſtreet, Piccadilly, which is fre⯑quented only by foreigners. They aſked me from what country? I ſaid from Cadiz in Spain. You may be twenty years in London, and not meet with a Spaniſh ſervant. In the month of March there was a houſe warm⯑ing at Knights-bridge. A gentleman's ſer⯑vant took a public-houſe, and he aſked his friends to come. There was a ſupper and ball. Thirty men and twenty-two women came. I was one of the company, which was very genteel, from noblemen and gen⯑tlemen's houſes of different countries. The maſter of the ceremonies was a Scotchman, who delighted more in that ſtation than in the Prayer-Book. The evening was ſpent very agreeably by the company at country dances, cards, and drinking. Supper was at eleven o'clock. After ſupper the company came into the drawing-room and began again. [385] As I had not danced in the evening, I aſked the ladies if they would do me the honour to dance a minuet with me, as I had no partner. They all anſwered they could not dance a mi⯑nuet, till at laſt I came to the wife of a ſer⯑jeant of the King's Body Guards, a genteel woman. She underſtood dancing well; ſhe untuckered the ſkirts of her gown. I called for Miſs Carmichael's minuet. I let the tune be played over once, that the gentle⯑woman might underſtand the minuet. While we ſtood at the end of the room for the mi⯑nuet to begin, the company got up from their card-tables, and their drinking. As there had been no minuet before in the evening, they gave great attention. When we had danced the minuet, I aſked the favour of the lady to dance a jig; ſhe anſwered ſhe would. She buttoned up the ſkirts of her gown, and I called for Lady Kitty Carſtair's Reel. We both danced together in the form of the mi⯑nuet, though quick. When we were done, [386] the company called encore, encore. I aſked the lady if it was agreeable to dance again. She anſwered, Yes. Then, madam, chuſe your tune. She ſaid, the ſame again. I thought with⯑in myſelf, what agreeable creatures thoſe wo⯑men are; they are not changeable; if they like a tune a man dances with them, they do not want to change from it. We went through our dance as before, and I treated her and the ladies with a bottle of ſweet mountain. In this month of March, I cal⯑led at Lowe's Hotel, Covent-Garden. As I went in, the waiter told me, Macdonald, I was juſt going to ſend a porter for you. I have an excellent place for you. A gentleman here, going abroad; his name is James O'Neil, Eſq. a very fine young man, in his twenty⯑firſt year. His father is a man of great for⯑tune in Ireland. He ſerved his time to the wine trade in Dublin; now he is going to the wine countries to make connections, and to know the cuſtoms abroad. I heard him [387] tell a gentleman, he would not have a foreign ſervant, becauſe ſometimes when they get what they can in England, they rob their maſters and leave them. Well, it is an old ſaying, an Iriſh gentleman will not be im⯑poſed upon. The waiter told Mr. O'Neil, the ſervant he mentioned to us is in the hall. Call him in. I went in. He aſked me what countryman. I ſaid a North Briton. After aſking me ſome queſtions, he hired me. After this Mr. O'Neil ſtopped at London two weeks to ſee the places in London, and din⯑ing at one place in the country, then at ano⯑ther; Richmond, Hampton Court, Windſor, Shooter's-hill, &c. Then we ſet out poſt for Bath, put up at the Three Tuns, and ſtopped there two weeks; then my maſter told me to take two changes of linen with me, and order a poſt chaiſe below: I want to go to ſee Briſtol. We put up at Mrs. Perry's, Queen's-ſquare; ſtopped here one day, and returned to Bath. Afterwards we ſet out poſt for [388] Wells, Bridgewater, Taunton, Tiverton, then to Exeter. Next day we ſet out for Ply⯑mouth, and ſtopped a few days, and then went round for Falmouth. We waited for a fair wind only two days. There was a great many paſſengers, Engliſh gentlemen and la⯑dies going to Liſbon for pleaſure, as well as their health; from England, Scotland, Ire⯑land, and Wales. We ſailed in the Expe⯑dition, Captain Robertſon, with a fair wind. We got to Liſbon in fourteen days. We ſaw ſeveral ſhips, but never hailed one, they not being near enough. Every thing was agree⯑able on the paſſage, and the company very happy. There was a lady from Cornwall, with a beautiful daughter, about ſixteen, and her ſon in a decline, about nineteen years old. The day we firſt ſaw the rock of Liſbon, the young gentleman died, his corpſe was carried on ſhore, and buried in the Engliſh burying place. He was heir to a large eſtate in Corn⯑wall. When we arrived at Liſbon, the com⯑pany [389] went to the Engliſh Hotel. My ma⯑ſter had the ſame equipage, man and horſe, that Sir John Stuart had. We were in Liſ⯑bon ſix weeks; then the company made a party, and went to Syntra, to the northward of the Tagus, near the ſea ſide, a pleaſant place. Here the company enjoyed them⯑ſelves by going out an airing in view of the ſea and the rock of Liſbon. In a week we returned to Liſbon, and in two days bought our travelling bed and other utenſils as before when with Sir John Stuart. I called my maſ⯑ter to ſee the different things, which ſeemed ſtrange to him. He aſked me, where my bed was? Sir, I have none; I take my chance. He hired a chaiſe and two mules to carry the baggage, they were already at Aldea Gallega. We croſſed the Tagus and ſtopped there all night at the houſe where I was at with Sir John. In the morning we ſet out for Pe⯑goens, through a fine country, then to Ven⯑tas Nuevas. We ſtopped all night. I went [390] a cocking. Mr. O'Neil was ſurpriſed to ſee the difference between Portugal and England, or Ireland. I ate with my maſter, and ſlept in the ſame room, through Portugal and Spain, as I did with Sir John Stuart. We had the driver and the baggage man with the two mules, but no interpreter. Next day to Ventas Silveras, and dined at Montemor Novi, and at night to Arrazolas, a fine town in a beautiful country for wines, oranges, and lemons. In the town is a royal palace. Next morning to Evoramonte, a ſmall town, and at night to Elvas, which is a ſtrong fortified town on the confines of Portugal. Next morning we ſet out for Badajoz. On this ſtage we left Portugal, and entered Spain. Badajoz is the capital of the province of Eſtremadura, a very large ſtrong fortified city, where there are a great many troops. At leaving the city of Badajoz, we croſſed the river Gua⯑diana. Next we paſſed through Talavera; next through Lobon, and at night to Merida, [391] a fine city, with fine churches, and grand buildings, with very grand and genteel com⯑pany. As my maſter was of the church of Rome, we were very agreeable to the people, and they to us, as we travelled along. Next day we paſſed through Buixellanes and San Pedro, where we dined. Here we entered the province of New Caſtile, a fine town; and at night to Mujadas. Next day to Puerto de Santa Cruz, and at night to Traſillo. Here was one of the fineſt churches in Spain; a fine town, where we had good accommoda⯑tion. Next day we went to Serezejo, a fine town, with fine buildings. On this road the mountains were ſo high, that we were obliged to get two oxen to help the horſes over the mountains. We walked on foot. Next we came to Caſas Del Puerto, then to Venta Nueva, a town with very fine buildings. We left this and croſſed the Tagus river, over which is a very fine bridge of twelve arches. We ſtopped all night at Almarez, where we [392] had very good and civil accommodation. As my maſter ſpoke the Spaniſh and French as well as Latin, and that, before he left Liſbon, he had a very rich Spaniſh dreſs made, trimmed with gold, every one took him for a Spa⯑niard. If ever there was an angel of a man, he was one. He allowed the men their pro⯑viſion from his own good-nature. He never did any thing without ſpeaking to me for my advice; and where-ever there was muſic, at any of the ſtages, he always paid them for playing, which made us always merry. I thought my life was heaven upon earth. Next morning we paſſed Eſpadanal, then Naval Moral Valparido, and dined at Calcada de Oropea; then through Toralca, and at night to Ventta de Peral Benegas, fine towns in a fine country, and the moſt harmleſs people in the world. Next day we dined at the city of Talavera de Regna, a place of great trade. My maſter and I went to ſee all the churches, and a number of fine buildings; and we alſo [393] went to ſee a great many manufactories, for which the place is famous. After dinner we paſſed through Venta Del Alverche, and at night to Bravo. Although the city of Toledo was out of our way, I had a great deſire to go through it. I told my maſter, If you pleaſe, Sir, to go by Toledo, it is one of the fineſt cities in Spain, and, going from thence to Ma⯑drid, you will ſee Aranjuez, where the King of Spain keeps his court part of the year; one of the fineſt places in Europe, Sir. He ſaid, I ſhould be glad to ſee Aranjuez; ſo he de⯑ſired the poſtillion next morning to drive to Montalbar, where we dined, and at night to Toledo. This whole day we were going by the ſide of the river Tagus that waſhes Madrid, Toledo, Aranjuez, and Liſbon; the pleaſanteſt journey ever a man travelled. As we were in Toledo at four in the after⯑noon, Mr. O'Neil went to ſee the churches, and I with him. When I came back, I en⯑quired for Malilia, the girl that was there [394] laſt year. They told me ſhe was at her father's and went away with child to an Engliſhman, that was travelling the road with his maſter; and that as the ſervant's name was John, they call the child John England. I aſked what her father was, they ſaid he was a cooper, and couſin to our maſter. I deſired to be taken to her father's houſe. They ſaid, Sir, I ſuppoſe you are the father of the boy. The landlord came out directly, and all the people looked at me, and ſaid, this is the child's father, God help her, dear girl. I was taken to her father's houſe, and when I entered the child was in the cradle aſleep. I took Ma⯑lilia in my arms, and kiſſed her. She ſaid, Mr. John, in Spaniſh, and fell down dead, and lay for one hour. The houſe filled in a few minutes with people, and I had her in my arms. When ſhe came to herſelf, ſhe took me round the neck, and fainted away again. She ſoon recovered. My child's father! my dear child! He was born the firſt of March, [395] and is four months old. I took her to the hotel with me, and the child in her arms. An hundred people came to ſee us. I was ſatiſ⯑fied the child was my own, and that ſhe ne⯑ver had known any otherman. I aſked her if ſhe would go to England with me: She ſaid, with all her heart, and all her friends were agreeable, if I would marry her. I ſent for a prieſt, and was married directly. She was very merry. Next day a hundred people came to ſee us go away. She was eighteen years of age, and I thirty-eight. I hired a chaiſe to take her to Aranjuez and Madrid, as I thought we ſhould ſtay ſome days there. We arrived at Aranjuez at din⯑ner, and put up at the hotel I was at with Sir John Stuart. As the King was at the Eſcurial, my maſter went to ſee what was worth ſeeing, and ſet out next day for Ma⯑drid, where we ſtopped two days. I made an agreement with the chaiſe-driver to take my wife to Toledo, and then to the Engliſh [396] hotel at Liſbon, and I ſent a letter to Mr. Dewar, the landlord of the ſame, to get her a paſſage for England, and to come to me in London, to Berwick-ſtreet, Soho.

In France we diſcharged our men and mules, and all our unneceſſary luggage, and next day we ſet out poſt for Bourdeaux, where we arrived the third day at the Engliſh hotel. My maſter liked Bourdeaux much. Finding a great many Engliſh and Iriſh gentlemen, he ſtopped three weeks. He hired a carriage and two ſervants. At the end of three weeks we ſet off poſt for Paris, and arrived, at the end of one week, at the Hotel de Parc Royal, Rue Fauxbourg, St. Germaine. Here my maſter intended to ſtay to amuſe himſelf. He got a chariot, and he gave the two ſer⯑vants genteel liveries. My maſter was a very genteel young man, and handſome. He made a very good appearance wherever he went. On the ſixth day of November, in the morn⯑ing, [397] he ſaid to me, John, there is five Louis for you. Sir, what is this for? I give it, be⯑cauſe this is my birth-day. I am this day twenty-one years, and treat the coachman and flamack with what they like to drink. I will, Sir; and I wiſh you long life and proſpe⯑rity, and I hope, Sir, you will have better luck than my laſt maſter, Sir John, had, for on the day he was of age, in the ſouth of France, he loſt a gold watch worth one hun⯑dred guineas. About the end of November we left Paris, to go to Bruſſels. We went to Chantillie, and ſtopped all night. Next morn⯑ing Mr. O'Neil went to ſee the Palace, the Toartains gardens, hot-houſe, green-houſe, and the ſtables, the firſt in the world. Next night we went to the city of Cambray, and next night to Mons, and next day to Bruſſels, and put up at the Engliſh hotel. Here was a great many Britiſh and Iriſh gentlemen, and here Mr. O'Neil kept his Chriſtmas. Bruſſels is [398] one of the fineſt places in the world, and there are the fineſt churches. As it was the Chriſt⯑mas time, my maſter and I went to ſee the churches ornamented and lighted. After three weeks ſtay here, we ſet out for Ghent, and ſtopped all night, and next day we went to ſee the city and the churches, and the day following we went to Courtray, and next day to the city of Ypres, where we ſtopped one day, and next night to Dunkirk. My maſter ſtopped two days, as there were gentlemen he knew. The night before we left Dun⯑kirk, as I was putting Mr. O'Neil to bed, he ſaid, I will not go by that poor place Gravelines, I will go by Boulogne. We went to Boulogne, and ſtopped two days, and then to Calais, and took our paſſage for Dover, and arrived in London, at Lowe's Hotel, in January 1779. I went to my lodg⯑ings in Berwick-ſtreet to enquire if my wife and child were arrived from Toledo. When I went in, my landlady aſked me how I did, [399] and when the common compliments were over, I aſked her if any one had called on me? She anſwered none, but there is a foreign let⯑ter here for you four months. When I received the letter I trembled, leſt ſome accident had happened to my wife and child; but my fears were ſoon over, when I opened the letter and read,

When I came back to the hotel, my ma⯑ſter's father had juſt arrived from Dublin to receive his ſon; he ſaid to me, Are you my ſon's ſervant? Sir, I am Mr. O'Neil's ſervant, he is gone out, and he will be in ſoon. Next day I determined in my own mind what to do. After the gentlemen were dreſſed, I went down to Wapping to enquire if there was any ſhip going to Spain. At the St. An⯑drew's, I found a ſhip was to ſail in three weeks for Bilboa in the province of Biſcay, in the [402] north of Spain. I ſaid that would anſwer my purpoſe; ſo I took my paſſage. Captain Jen⯑kins was the Captain's name. After one week in town, the gentlemen were pre⯑paring to ſet off for Ireland. One morning my maſter aſked if I would go to Ireland with him. I thanked him; and I anſwered, I am going to Spain with a gentleman, and as your father has two ſervants here, you can do without me: the butler will take care of your things, and I am much obliged to you for all favours. I never enjoyed more happineſs than with you. My maſter paid me off, and his father ſent the butler for me to come into the parlour, and he made me a preſent of a twenty pound bank note, and next day they ſet off for Dublin. I ſold all my things off, and made ready to take my paſſage to Bilboa. We all got on board, and, in one month from the Thames, we arrived at Bilboa. As we were preparing to go on ſhore, I looked back and ſaid to myſelf, fare⯑well [403] Great Britain and Ireland, if I ſhould or ſhould not ſee you again. I ſtopped at Bilboa one day. I found ſeveral people go⯑ing to Burgos city, ſome merchants and ſome ſeafaring people, to ſee their relations. I had one mule to ride, and another for my baggage, and for the man to ride that was to bring back the mules. When we left Bil⯑boa two ſtages, we came into a road I had travelled twice before. The people knew me on the road. The company were all very civil; therefore we travelled with great plea⯑ſure. In three days we arrived at Burgos, and ſtopped at our old houſe. Here all the company left us, but one going to Segovia. We had freſh mules as before, and arrived in four days. Here I waited one day to have an opportunity to be one in a return chaiſe to Madrid, which was rather more agree⯑able to ride, than on a mule. We ſet out three of us in the chaiſe, and every thing was very agreeable. We walked on foot [404] over the mountains and hills. We came to Madrid in three days, where I ſtopped two nights with a relation of my wife's: then I ſet off for Toledo, by a return coach. We went through Aranjuez, and arrived at To⯑ledo at my father-in-law's. My wife was brought to bed, in a week after, of another boy. I ſaid to myſelf, the Macdonalds grow in Spain. My wife was overjoyed to ſee me, and I was glad to ſee my wife and children. My wife's father and mother, and Mr. Lo⯑garo, were very glad to ſee me come amongſt them. Numbers of their friends came to ſee me. Next day I went to Mr. Logaro's, at the Hotel de Naples, and there I was em⯑ployed to my ſatisfaction. So now I end the hiſtory of my travels.